DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0051
LOONG-EES AND DHOTEES.
23
A. LOONGEES, INCLUDING DHOTEES WHEN MANUFACTURED TOGETHER.
1. Cotton.—Plain; coloured ends; no borders.
This group, in its simplicity, approaches the class of piece goods which have merely to be
cut across to form scarfs of suitable dimensions.* *
Nos. 79 and 80 (Vol. II.) afford illustrations of the commonest material of which this
garment is made.
No. 79 is a rag for a boy, and is 1 yard 3 inches in length, 19 inches in width, and wrnighs
2 ounces. It has a few chocolate-coloured threads across each end close to the edge.
From Biekul (now Carwar) N. Canara.
No. 80. A coarse, thick, unbleached cotton, having two red stripes and one blue at each
end. Worn by the Burghers, an aboriginal Hill-tribe in Southern India. Length, 5 yards
9 inches ; width, 1 yard; weight, 3 lbs. 1 oz. From Coimbatore, Madras.
2. Cotton.—Plain ; coloured borders and ends.
Nos. 46, 47, 50, and 54, Vol. II., in the subjoined Table afford examples of the Jore
or complete dress of two pieces, the longer forming the Loongee for wear round the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the shorter, which is of the same pattern, being the
loin cloth or Dliotee. These are woven with a fag, to allow of their being readily
separated.
No. 75 is an instance of an unusually wide border.
Nos. 76, 77, and 78 are illustrations of what may be called the minimum of ornamentation
under this head—slight, however, as it is, it adds materially to the attractiveness of the piece.
No. 52 is a plain muslin material with simple borders and ends. Although entered as
a mans garment, it would be much more frequently used as a woman’s Saree.
Nos. 109 and 110, Vol. III., although received from Bombay, and stated to have been
made at Surat, are probably of English manufacture.. The borders are good, but the
few stripes which form the end pattern are too poor, in proportion, to be effective. So far as
we have observed, this is a remark which applies to almost all the attempts hitherto made
in this country to manufacture this class of goods for the Indian market.
The light, open texture of the fabric, required for ordinary wear in India, is well shown in
this group ; but further on we shall find illustrations of the thicker cotton materials which
It will be observed that the numbers on the right-hand corner of the labels run through the different volumes
consecutively—from 1 upwards—an arrangement which affords facility of reference. In each example the utmost
care has been taken to give a sufficient number of portions to show the whole pattern, and so to constitute what
is called a working sample.
In cases which show only one specimen of a border or end pattern, it is to be understood that the two ends or
borders are alike.
* The greater proportion of the grey, and the inferior qualities of the bleached piece-goods exported from this
country to India, are employed in this manner.
23
A. LOONGEES, INCLUDING DHOTEES WHEN MANUFACTURED TOGETHER.
1. Cotton.—Plain; coloured ends; no borders.
This group, in its simplicity, approaches the class of piece goods which have merely to be
cut across to form scarfs of suitable dimensions.* *
Nos. 79 and 80 (Vol. II.) afford illustrations of the commonest material of which this
garment is made.
No. 79 is a rag for a boy, and is 1 yard 3 inches in length, 19 inches in width, and wrnighs
2 ounces. It has a few chocolate-coloured threads across each end close to the edge.
From Biekul (now Carwar) N. Canara.
No. 80. A coarse, thick, unbleached cotton, having two red stripes and one blue at each
end. Worn by the Burghers, an aboriginal Hill-tribe in Southern India. Length, 5 yards
9 inches ; width, 1 yard; weight, 3 lbs. 1 oz. From Coimbatore, Madras.
2. Cotton.—Plain ; coloured borders and ends.
Nos. 46, 47, 50, and 54, Vol. II., in the subjoined Table afford examples of the Jore
or complete dress of two pieces, the longer forming the Loongee for wear round the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the shorter, which is of the same pattern, being the
loin cloth or Dliotee. These are woven with a fag, to allow of their being readily
separated.
No. 75 is an instance of an unusually wide border.
Nos. 76, 77, and 78 are illustrations of what may be called the minimum of ornamentation
under this head—slight, however, as it is, it adds materially to the attractiveness of the piece.
No. 52 is a plain muslin material with simple borders and ends. Although entered as
a mans garment, it would be much more frequently used as a woman’s Saree.
Nos. 109 and 110, Vol. III., although received from Bombay, and stated to have been
made at Surat, are probably of English manufacture.. The borders are good, but the
few stripes which form the end pattern are too poor, in proportion, to be effective. So far as
we have observed, this is a remark which applies to almost all the attempts hitherto made
in this country to manufacture this class of goods for the Indian market.
The light, open texture of the fabric, required for ordinary wear in India, is well shown in
this group ; but further on we shall find illustrations of the thicker cotton materials which
It will be observed that the numbers on the right-hand corner of the labels run through the different volumes
consecutively—from 1 upwards—an arrangement which affords facility of reference. In each example the utmost
care has been taken to give a sufficient number of portions to show the whole pattern, and so to constitute what
is called a working sample.
In cases which show only one specimen of a border or end pattern, it is to be understood that the two ends or
borders are alike.
* The greater proportion of the grey, and the inferior qualities of the bleached piece-goods exported from this
country to India, are employed in this manner.