DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0054
26
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
♦
5. Cotton.—Plain ; Gold and coloured Cotton in borders ; Gold in ends.
No. 42, Vol. II. Bleached. Figured borders of gold and of black cotton thread. Has two
stripes of gold at each end. Two pieces in one length with fag between. Length of
Loongee 5 yards 27 inches, and of Dhotee 3 yards 4 inches ; width, 1 yard 13 inches ;
weight, 1 lb. 3 oz. Price 1/. 10s. From Woopparaddy, Madras.
6. Cotton.—Plain ; Gold and coloured Silk in borders ; Gold in ends.
No. 41, Yol. II., is an excellent example both of texture and style. Material, unbleached
cotton. Flowered borders of black silk and gold 1^ inches wide. Gold stripe (2j inches
wide) at each end. Length, 8 yards 21 inches ; width, 1 yard 19 inches; weight, 1 lb. Price
31. 12^. From Madura, Madras.
Having shown the manner in which a plain white cotton fabric is rendered attractive, by
the ornamentation of its ends and borders, we come next to the instances in which colour
is employed in the body of the piece, as well as in the ends and borders.
In the three groups which follow, the classification has not, as in the previous groups, been
strictly founded upon the character of the border and end patterns, since the quality or
thickness of the material has been also taken into consideration.
In group 7, the texture, although a little closer, will be found to be not unlike that of
examples already dealt with. In No. 8 group, however, we find a stouter and softer material;
whilst in group 9 the fabric is as thick as many of the slighter woollen cloths made in
England.
It is an error to suppose that thick and warm fabrics are not required in India. Throughout
a great portion of that country the suffering of the poor from cold during certain seasons,
particularly at night, is as great as with us in Europe. The temperature in many parts of
India falls occasionally during the cold season to the freezing point or below it. But even
when the temperature does not go down so low as 32°, a fall from 90° during the day to 60°
at night—a by no means uncommon occurrence at certain seasons—produces a very decided
sensation of cold and. a consequent demand for warm clothing.
The thicker materials now under consideration are durable as well as warm, and of their
commercial importance as a class, evidence is afforded by the fact that during the recent
cotton famine in England and the consequent rise in price of the raw material in India, the
native goods retained their position in the market more firmly than the English ones did,
though the price of the native-made goods rose to a much greater extent than did that
of the European. The report of the Sudder Board of Revenue to the Government of the
North-Western Provinces “regarding the slackness of demand for European cotton goods”
(dated Allahabad, ]6th March 1864) so well illustrates this point that we give in a foot-note
the portions which specially refer to the subject.*
* “The extraordinary rise of price” (of the raw material) “has affected, though unequally, the demand both for
native and for European stuffs. The same money only buys half, and often less than half, the quantity of cloth it
used to.”.“ The enhanced prices have diminished the consumption both of English and of native
pieces ; but, at least in the western districts, they have affected the English more than the native. This is remarkable,
seeing that the native goods have advanced in price in a higher ratio than the European—the increase in the former
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
♦
5. Cotton.—Plain ; Gold and coloured Cotton in borders ; Gold in ends.
No. 42, Vol. II. Bleached. Figured borders of gold and of black cotton thread. Has two
stripes of gold at each end. Two pieces in one length with fag between. Length of
Loongee 5 yards 27 inches, and of Dhotee 3 yards 4 inches ; width, 1 yard 13 inches ;
weight, 1 lb. 3 oz. Price 1/. 10s. From Woopparaddy, Madras.
6. Cotton.—Plain ; Gold and coloured Silk in borders ; Gold in ends.
No. 41, Yol. II., is an excellent example both of texture and style. Material, unbleached
cotton. Flowered borders of black silk and gold 1^ inches wide. Gold stripe (2j inches
wide) at each end. Length, 8 yards 21 inches ; width, 1 yard 19 inches; weight, 1 lb. Price
31. 12^. From Madura, Madras.
Having shown the manner in which a plain white cotton fabric is rendered attractive, by
the ornamentation of its ends and borders, we come next to the instances in which colour
is employed in the body of the piece, as well as in the ends and borders.
In the three groups which follow, the classification has not, as in the previous groups, been
strictly founded upon the character of the border and end patterns, since the quality or
thickness of the material has been also taken into consideration.
In group 7, the texture, although a little closer, will be found to be not unlike that of
examples already dealt with. In No. 8 group, however, we find a stouter and softer material;
whilst in group 9 the fabric is as thick as many of the slighter woollen cloths made in
England.
It is an error to suppose that thick and warm fabrics are not required in India. Throughout
a great portion of that country the suffering of the poor from cold during certain seasons,
particularly at night, is as great as with us in Europe. The temperature in many parts of
India falls occasionally during the cold season to the freezing point or below it. But even
when the temperature does not go down so low as 32°, a fall from 90° during the day to 60°
at night—a by no means uncommon occurrence at certain seasons—produces a very decided
sensation of cold and. a consequent demand for warm clothing.
The thicker materials now under consideration are durable as well as warm, and of their
commercial importance as a class, evidence is afforded by the fact that during the recent
cotton famine in England and the consequent rise in price of the raw material in India, the
native goods retained their position in the market more firmly than the English ones did,
though the price of the native-made goods rose to a much greater extent than did that
of the European. The report of the Sudder Board of Revenue to the Government of the
North-Western Provinces “regarding the slackness of demand for European cotton goods”
(dated Allahabad, ]6th March 1864) so well illustrates this point that we give in a foot-note
the portions which specially refer to the subject.*
* “The extraordinary rise of price” (of the raw material) “has affected, though unequally, the demand both for
native and for European stuffs. The same money only buys half, and often less than half, the quantity of cloth it
used to.”.“ The enhanced prices have diminished the consumption both of English and of native
pieces ; but, at least in the western districts, they have affected the English more than the native. This is remarkable,
seeing that the native goods have advanced in price in a higher ratio than the European—the increase in the former