Universitätsbibliothek HeidelbergUniversitätsbibliothek Heidelberg
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Watson, John F.
The textile manufactures and the costumes of the people of India — London, 1866

DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0060
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32

LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :

13. Cotton.—Plain dyed ; Silk Borders and Ends.

Nos. 95 and 98, Vol. III., are the examples under this head. No. 95 is dark blue
(a favourite colour) with 13,-inch border of dark crimson silk. About 42 inches of each
end is decorated with plain and figured cross stripes, in silk and cotton, of various colours.

This specimen is interesting, not merely because so considerable a portion of each end is
ornamented, but also because the border is sewn on.*

Length of piece, 5 yards 24 inches ; width, 1 yard 8 inches; weight, 3 lb. 4 oz. From
Kohat.

No. 98 is a soft material worthy of notice. The pattern, which is a kind of diaper,
in crimson, deserves attention. The border in this instance is a stripe of yellow silk
(probably in imitation of gold lace) with margins of coloured cotton thread. Across each
end is a coloured and figured stripe of silk and cotton 3^ inches wide.

Length 3 yards, width 1 yard 8 inches, weight, lib. 8oz. It cost 1 l-s. 6d. From
Nurrapore, Sind.

14. Cotton.—Check ; Silk Borders and Ends.

No. 96 is an example of a favourite pattern in the Punjab. The body pattern is a very
small dark blue check, with a border formed by a 23,- inch stripe of red silk. In each end,
for 15 inches, cross stripes of yellow, green, and crimson silks are introduced. Length
4 yards, width 1 yard 17 inches, and weight 1 lb. 5-3, oz. Price 12,s'. From Leiah, in the
Punjab.

The pattern of No. 101, Vol. III. is a wTide open check of narrow crimson lines, 1 inch
apart, on a white ground. Border, a 2-inch stripe of crimson silk, with f-inch edging on
the inner side of the Kutar pattern. Across each end, a 3f-inch stripe of crimson silk
and white cotton. Length 3 yards 7 inches. Width 1 yard 8 inches. Weight 111, ounces.
Price in 1854, 4 s. 10c?. From Pind Dadun Khan.

No. 104, Vol. III. This is a check pattern, formed by faint crimson lines T|ths of an
inch apart on white ground. The border consists of a plain 2-inch crimson silk stripe, and
across each end are a 4f-inch stripe of crimson, green, and yellow silks, and four supple-
mentary stripes of crimson and yellow silks J inch wide. Length 3 yards 22 inches, width
1 yard 16 inches, weight lib. 3oz. Price 11 s. Qd. From Lahore in the Punjab.

15. Cotton.—Plain Dye; Cotton and Silk Borders; Gold Ends.

No. 56, Vol. II., is a further illustration of the method in which the two garment pieces,
viz., the Loongee and Dhotee, are woven in one piece with a fag at the point of sepa-
ration. The material is a rose-coloured muslin with a l^-inch border, “Kutar” pattern.
Moonga silk is introduced, apparently in imitation of gold thread. At each end is a f-inch
cross stripe of gold and black thread.

The length of the longer piece, or Loongee, is 5 yards 27 inches, and of the shorter, or
Dhotee, 2 yards 18 inches, the width 1 yard 11 inches, and the weight lib. 2 ozs. From
Rajahmundry, Madras, where, in 1854, the piece cost 14s. 6d.

* This is occasionally done ; and borders made for the purpose might he so employed to a greater extent than
they are.
 
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