DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0069
40
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
With respect to the materials of which the Saree is made, and the character of its texture,
a few general remarks may here be made.
As to material, cotton naturally occupies the first place, then mixtures of cotton and silk,
and lastly, silk itself. There are no examples given in which wool has been employed, but
some of the remarks already made, respecting the introduction of that fibre into fabrics suited
for wear in India during the cold season, should be kept in view by the manufacturer, being
as applicable to Sarees as to Loongees.
Just as in the case of the Loongees and Dhotees, attention must be paid to the texture
of the fabric employed. This requires to be loose and soft, in order to be agreeable to the
wearer, and to allow the garment to fall more gracefully into shape.
Indeed, during the hot season, it would be almost impossible to wear a cloth of cotton or
silk in the manner the native women of India do, unless it were of open texture and soft and
pliable.
With respect to the way in which these long scarfs are embellished by the introduction of
borders, &c., we shall find the same variety In the character of the decoration, and the same
subordination of ornament to function as in the case of Loongees.
Sarees, made in separate pieces of the proper length, have, almost invariably, ornamental
borders of some sort or other; and one end, that exposed to view, has care devoted to its
adornment, as in the case of the turban-pieces. The opposite end, being worn next to the body
and out of sight, is left nearly plain.
The number of ways in which effect is produced, by the variety of materials and patterns
employed to form the borders and ends, will be seen by referring to the descriptions of the
groups which follow.
In the note below will be found some terms which have been applied in different parts of
India to the Saree or to modifications of it, but the name of Saree is that which is now most
commonly employed.*
We now come to the consideration of the special illustrations of this class of loom-made
garments.
* Boonnee. From Boonna—to weave. This cloth is made either with a red or black border. The former is
worn by Hindu and the latter by Mahomedan women. Dimensions 10 yards by 1 yard.—(Cotton manufacture
of Dacca, p. 62.)
Kilnya. So called when the piece of cloth is woven so that “ two breadths must be stitched together to make one
wrapper.”—(Buchanan in Martin’s “Eastern India,” Yol. II., p. 93.)
Dlioti. In Buchanan’s time, in Goruckpore, the wrapper worn by women, when of full size, was called dhoti
—a term which in Behar and Bengal is confined to the male dress, where also the appellation Sari for the female
wrapper was used.—(Buchanan in Martin’s “Eastern India,” Yol. II., p. 93.)
Chadur, Clioddur, Chudder. Literally a sheet used as a covering by Mahomedan women, hut it is also applied to
the plain woollen shawls manufactured at Umritsur and Kampore.
Sadhie is a name used for the Saree in the Mahratta country.
Chundur Kala, when the Saree is of one colour only, black or red.
Putta. A kind of holiday cloth of the Saree class, worn in Dharwar by children at weddings, &c. It is of plain
cotton or of silk embroidered according to the station of the wearer.
Sulleedar. A silk saree worn by women at festivals in Dharwar.
Karchori. A Parsee lady’s dress, gold embroidered, of the Saree class.
Tamieng. A saree worn by Burmese women.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
With respect to the materials of which the Saree is made, and the character of its texture,
a few general remarks may here be made.
As to material, cotton naturally occupies the first place, then mixtures of cotton and silk,
and lastly, silk itself. There are no examples given in which wool has been employed, but
some of the remarks already made, respecting the introduction of that fibre into fabrics suited
for wear in India during the cold season, should be kept in view by the manufacturer, being
as applicable to Sarees as to Loongees.
Just as in the case of the Loongees and Dhotees, attention must be paid to the texture
of the fabric employed. This requires to be loose and soft, in order to be agreeable to the
wearer, and to allow the garment to fall more gracefully into shape.
Indeed, during the hot season, it would be almost impossible to wear a cloth of cotton or
silk in the manner the native women of India do, unless it were of open texture and soft and
pliable.
With respect to the way in which these long scarfs are embellished by the introduction of
borders, &c., we shall find the same variety In the character of the decoration, and the same
subordination of ornament to function as in the case of Loongees.
Sarees, made in separate pieces of the proper length, have, almost invariably, ornamental
borders of some sort or other; and one end, that exposed to view, has care devoted to its
adornment, as in the case of the turban-pieces. The opposite end, being worn next to the body
and out of sight, is left nearly plain.
The number of ways in which effect is produced, by the variety of materials and patterns
employed to form the borders and ends, will be seen by referring to the descriptions of the
groups which follow.
In the note below will be found some terms which have been applied in different parts of
India to the Saree or to modifications of it, but the name of Saree is that which is now most
commonly employed.*
We now come to the consideration of the special illustrations of this class of loom-made
garments.
* Boonnee. From Boonna—to weave. This cloth is made either with a red or black border. The former is
worn by Hindu and the latter by Mahomedan women. Dimensions 10 yards by 1 yard.—(Cotton manufacture
of Dacca, p. 62.)
Kilnya. So called when the piece of cloth is woven so that “ two breadths must be stitched together to make one
wrapper.”—(Buchanan in Martin’s “Eastern India,” Yol. II., p. 93.)
Dlioti. In Buchanan’s time, in Goruckpore, the wrapper worn by women, when of full size, was called dhoti
—a term which in Behar and Bengal is confined to the male dress, where also the appellation Sari for the female
wrapper was used.—(Buchanan in Martin’s “Eastern India,” Yol. II., p. 93.)
Chadur, Clioddur, Chudder. Literally a sheet used as a covering by Mahomedan women, hut it is also applied to
the plain woollen shawls manufactured at Umritsur and Kampore.
Sadhie is a name used for the Saree in the Mahratta country.
Chundur Kala, when the Saree is of one colour only, black or red.
Putta. A kind of holiday cloth of the Saree class, worn in Dharwar by children at weddings, &c. It is of plain
cotton or of silk embroidered according to the station of the wearer.
Sulleedar. A silk saree worn by women at festivals in Dharwar.
Karchori. A Parsee lady’s dress, gold embroidered, of the Saree class.
Tamieng. A saree worn by Burmese women.