DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0072
42
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS:
2. Cotton (Muslin).—Gold End.
The specimens of Sarees, Nos. 283, 284, 285, Vol. VIII., form a remarkable contrast to
the preceding ones. They have no borders, and have been dealt with as a class on account
of the special ornamentation of their ends, into each of which a stripe of gold about an
inch wide had been inserted.®
They are from Chundeyree, and afford excellent examples of the beautiful fabrics for which
that old seat of native manufacture has been so long and so justly celebrated.f
The specimens are unbleached ; No. 284 is a plain material; No. 283 is striped ; and No. 285
is chequered in the loom. Each has a stripe of gold, about an inch wide, at one end.
The lengths and widths of Nos. 283 and 284 are the same, viz., 14 yards and 30i inches
respectively, but 285 is an inch more each way. No. 283 weighs 10§ ounces, and the other
two each 10^ ounces. The cost of each, in 1854, was the same, viz., 11. 13s. 0d.
Although silk is occasionally used to form borders and ends to plain cotton materials, no
examples occur in the series.
3. Cotton (Muslin).—Coloured Cotton Borders; Coloured Cotton and Gold in Ends.
No. 189, Vol. V. A plain and rather coarse muslin. Border (2| inches) of red and yellow
cotton stripes, with a narrow line of same, ^ inch from inner edge. In principal end
a 2^-inch cross stripe of red cotton with inch centre of gold thread. Between this main
cross stripe and narrower ones of the same colour, the material is dotted with spots in
black thread. Secondary end marked merely by a few threads of red cotton. Length of piece,
8 yards 18 inches; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 lb. 4 oz. ; cost 6s. 9d. Woven at
Gangam; bought in Madras.
4. Cotton.—Silk Borders ; Silk and Gold in End.
Example No. 173, Vol. V. A plain, light material; warp of unbleached thread, weft tinged
with blue. Border, I f inch wide, of coloured cotton and crimson and yellow silk. 8i inches of
principal end decorated with 2|-inch cross stripe of gold thread, and several figured stripes of
coloured thread and crimson silk. Opposite end marked only by a narrow . cross stripe of
coloured thread. From Condapore, S. Canara, Madras. Length of piece, 7 yards; width,
1 yard; weight, 1 lb. 3 oz. ; cost 10s.
5. Cotton.—Coloured Thread ; Cotton Borders.
In this group there are no special end patterns, the character of the border stripes rendering
these, perhaps, as a matter of taste less necessary! *
* Although grouped with the Sarees these specimens. more strictly speaking come under the denomination of
piece-goods—it being a by no means uncommon custom to ornament the ends of the finer kinds with the flattened
gold and silver wire called badla. The wire in such cases is not woven into the fabric, but is put in with the needle
—a special class of workmen being employed for the purpose.
f As in the case of Dacca, the manufacture of these prized cloths at Chundeyree has of late been restricted to
the fulfilment of occasional orders.
The weavers are described as working in underground workshops, to secure a greater uniformity of moisture in the
air, which in the North-Western provinces is usually very dry. The cotton anciently used in the manufacture of the
Chundeyree muslins is stated to have been brought from Oomrawuttee, in Berar; and the thread, when of fine quality,
was sold for its weight in silver.
We are informed by Captain Meadows Taylor that a similar class of yarn is spun in rooms or cellars carefully closed
and with the floors kept constantly watered, at Nandair, Dhunwarum, Narainpett, and other places near Hydrabad in
the Deccan.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS:
2. Cotton (Muslin).—Gold End.
The specimens of Sarees, Nos. 283, 284, 285, Vol. VIII., form a remarkable contrast to
the preceding ones. They have no borders, and have been dealt with as a class on account
of the special ornamentation of their ends, into each of which a stripe of gold about an
inch wide had been inserted.®
They are from Chundeyree, and afford excellent examples of the beautiful fabrics for which
that old seat of native manufacture has been so long and so justly celebrated.f
The specimens are unbleached ; No. 284 is a plain material; No. 283 is striped ; and No. 285
is chequered in the loom. Each has a stripe of gold, about an inch wide, at one end.
The lengths and widths of Nos. 283 and 284 are the same, viz., 14 yards and 30i inches
respectively, but 285 is an inch more each way. No. 283 weighs 10§ ounces, and the other
two each 10^ ounces. The cost of each, in 1854, was the same, viz., 11. 13s. 0d.
Although silk is occasionally used to form borders and ends to plain cotton materials, no
examples occur in the series.
3. Cotton (Muslin).—Coloured Cotton Borders; Coloured Cotton and Gold in Ends.
No. 189, Vol. V. A plain and rather coarse muslin. Border (2| inches) of red and yellow
cotton stripes, with a narrow line of same, ^ inch from inner edge. In principal end
a 2^-inch cross stripe of red cotton with inch centre of gold thread. Between this main
cross stripe and narrower ones of the same colour, the material is dotted with spots in
black thread. Secondary end marked merely by a few threads of red cotton. Length of piece,
8 yards 18 inches; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 lb. 4 oz. ; cost 6s. 9d. Woven at
Gangam; bought in Madras.
4. Cotton.—Silk Borders ; Silk and Gold in End.
Example No. 173, Vol. V. A plain, light material; warp of unbleached thread, weft tinged
with blue. Border, I f inch wide, of coloured cotton and crimson and yellow silk. 8i inches of
principal end decorated with 2|-inch cross stripe of gold thread, and several figured stripes of
coloured thread and crimson silk. Opposite end marked only by a narrow . cross stripe of
coloured thread. From Condapore, S. Canara, Madras. Length of piece, 7 yards; width,
1 yard; weight, 1 lb. 3 oz. ; cost 10s.
5. Cotton.—Coloured Thread ; Cotton Borders.
In this group there are no special end patterns, the character of the border stripes rendering
these, perhaps, as a matter of taste less necessary! *
* Although grouped with the Sarees these specimens. more strictly speaking come under the denomination of
piece-goods—it being a by no means uncommon custom to ornament the ends of the finer kinds with the flattened
gold and silver wire called badla. The wire in such cases is not woven into the fabric, but is put in with the needle
—a special class of workmen being employed for the purpose.
f As in the case of Dacca, the manufacture of these prized cloths at Chundeyree has of late been restricted to
the fulfilment of occasional orders.
The weavers are described as working in underground workshops, to secure a greater uniformity of moisture in the
air, which in the North-Western provinces is usually very dry. The cotton anciently used in the manufacture of the
Chundeyree muslins is stated to have been brought from Oomrawuttee, in Berar; and the thread, when of fine quality,
was sold for its weight in silver.
We are informed by Captain Meadows Taylor that a similar class of yarn is spun in rooms or cellars carefully closed
and with the floors kept constantly watered, at Nandair, Dhunwarum, Narainpett, and other places near Hydrabad in
the Deccan.