DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0087
56
PIECE GOODS.
be thus known the one from the other, even when the dress, as often happens, is of the
same shape and material.*
Fig. 21, P3. III., shows the ordinary long calico coat now worn by the great majority of
well-to-do Hindus. In form this differs but little. from the long but somewhat more ample
garment which Mahomedans wear.
The standing figure to the left of the group in the centre of PL II., and the figures
No. 20, PI. III., and 24, 25, PI. IV. (facing p. 32), afford additional examples of this article
of dress. In the note below will be found the names and descriptions of other garments
of the same class either used as upper or as under clothing.f
* That in these days, however, there are exceptions to this rule evidence is afforded by the standing figure in the
group of Mahomedans—so called in the description which accompanied the original photograph—engaged in the
favourite game of chess, in the centre of PI. II., in which the coat is tied on the right instead of on the left side.
f Koorta. Thi3 is a loose shirt or under gown worn both by Hindus and Mahomedans. A kind of muslin,
called Kumees (from the Arabic word Gumees, a shirt), manufactured at Dacca, is used for making the finer
qualities of this garment. (“ Cotton Manufactures of Dacca.”)
Angarkha, ZJngurkha, Angrakha, fyc. These names, undoubtedly identical, have bben assigned to garments
of different characters. Thus one -writer states the Angarhha to be a sort of shirt worn under the Jama and
tied in two places on each side of the body ; and a close observer of details—Buchanan—says that the Angrakha
is a short calico vest with sleeves resembling the Angga which descends only to the haunches ; he states also
that the garment, instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side only, viz., on the right by the
Hindu, and on the left by the Mahomedan.
Another writer informs us that the ZJngurkha is a long-skirted gown with long sleeves and closed or covered
breasts.
Minah and Angga. The Minah is made of muslin, has' sleeves, and is tied across the breast. It descends to
below the calf of the leg, and is worn by male Mahomedans in hot weather. The Angga is not so long,
reaching only to the haunches, and is worn in place of the Mjinah.
Mirzaee. An under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs, worn under the Kuba by respectable
Mahomedans and by upper servants in European employ.
Kufcha. An open jacket, differing from the Mirzaee in having tight sleeves.
Kuba. A long close sort of gown worn by Mahomedans and Hindus. It differs from the Ungurkha in being
open-breasted, and is worn over the Mirzaee or Koorta.
Kaba. Probably same as the Kuba. Described as having very wide sleeves and reaching to the knees.
Worn by Mahomedans in place of the Jama.
Jama or Jamo. These names would appear to be given to the outer or dress gown in general wear, in the
same manner as the term TJngurklia is applied to the under-gown or shirt in its different forms. Buchanan
calls the Jamah an outer coat of same fashion and material as the Minah, but descending to the feet, and
states that it forms part of the Mahomedan costume in hot weather. Another writer describes it as having a
double-breasted body with loose skirts gathered in close plaits at the waist, and says that it is worn by the
higher classes at native courts. In this form it was the ancient court di'ess of Delhi, where the original Persian
(Moghul) pattern was never altered.
Jaguli. Mr. Batten, in his report on Kumaon and Gurwhul, describes this as a Jama reaching to the knees.
Chupkan. A long-skirted gown resembling the Ungurltha and the usual dress of respectable male domestics,
both Hindu and Mahomedan.
Duglee, Jjuglo. Coats worn by Hindu, Parsee, and Mahomedan males of Western India. The Duglo 4s of cloth.
Ulba-Joobba. The Arabian and Persian cloak worn over all other garments. Open in front, and much
resembling the English boat-cloak.
Tubada. A wide great coat worn by male Hindus.
Jora. The Mahomedan dress suit,—comprising,
1. The Dustar or Turban.
2. The Nimah.
3. The Jamah.
4. The Kummerbund.
5. The Izar.
PIECE GOODS.
be thus known the one from the other, even when the dress, as often happens, is of the
same shape and material.*
Fig. 21, P3. III., shows the ordinary long calico coat now worn by the great majority of
well-to-do Hindus. In form this differs but little. from the long but somewhat more ample
garment which Mahomedans wear.
The standing figure to the left of the group in the centre of PL II., and the figures
No. 20, PI. III., and 24, 25, PI. IV. (facing p. 32), afford additional examples of this article
of dress. In the note below will be found the names and descriptions of other garments
of the same class either used as upper or as under clothing.f
* That in these days, however, there are exceptions to this rule evidence is afforded by the standing figure in the
group of Mahomedans—so called in the description which accompanied the original photograph—engaged in the
favourite game of chess, in the centre of PI. II., in which the coat is tied on the right instead of on the left side.
f Koorta. Thi3 is a loose shirt or under gown worn both by Hindus and Mahomedans. A kind of muslin,
called Kumees (from the Arabic word Gumees, a shirt), manufactured at Dacca, is used for making the finer
qualities of this garment. (“ Cotton Manufactures of Dacca.”)
Angarkha, ZJngurkha, Angrakha, fyc. These names, undoubtedly identical, have bben assigned to garments
of different characters. Thus one -writer states the Angarhha to be a sort of shirt worn under the Jama and
tied in two places on each side of the body ; and a close observer of details—Buchanan—says that the Angrakha
is a short calico vest with sleeves resembling the Angga which descends only to the haunches ; he states also
that the garment, instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side only, viz., on the right by the
Hindu, and on the left by the Mahomedan.
Another writer informs us that the ZJngurkha is a long-skirted gown with long sleeves and closed or covered
breasts.
Minah and Angga. The Minah is made of muslin, has' sleeves, and is tied across the breast. It descends to
below the calf of the leg, and is worn by male Mahomedans in hot weather. The Angga is not so long,
reaching only to the haunches, and is worn in place of the Mjinah.
Mirzaee. An under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs, worn under the Kuba by respectable
Mahomedans and by upper servants in European employ.
Kufcha. An open jacket, differing from the Mirzaee in having tight sleeves.
Kuba. A long close sort of gown worn by Mahomedans and Hindus. It differs from the Ungurkha in being
open-breasted, and is worn over the Mirzaee or Koorta.
Kaba. Probably same as the Kuba. Described as having very wide sleeves and reaching to the knees.
Worn by Mahomedans in place of the Jama.
Jama or Jamo. These names would appear to be given to the outer or dress gown in general wear, in the
same manner as the term TJngurklia is applied to the under-gown or shirt in its different forms. Buchanan
calls the Jamah an outer coat of same fashion and material as the Minah, but descending to the feet, and
states that it forms part of the Mahomedan costume in hot weather. Another writer describes it as having a
double-breasted body with loose skirts gathered in close plaits at the waist, and says that it is worn by the
higher classes at native courts. In this form it was the ancient court di'ess of Delhi, where the original Persian
(Moghul) pattern was never altered.
Jaguli. Mr. Batten, in his report on Kumaon and Gurwhul, describes this as a Jama reaching to the knees.
Chupkan. A long-skirted gown resembling the Ungurltha and the usual dress of respectable male domestics,
both Hindu and Mahomedan.
Duglee, Jjuglo. Coats worn by Hindu, Parsee, and Mahomedan males of Western India. The Duglo 4s of cloth.
Ulba-Joobba. The Arabian and Persian cloak worn over all other garments. Open in front, and much
resembling the English boat-cloak.
Tubada. A wide great coat worn by male Hindus.
Jora. The Mahomedan dress suit,—comprising,
1. The Dustar or Turban.
2. The Nimah.
3. The Jamah.
4. The Kummerbund.
5. The Izar.