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Watson, John F.
The textile manufactures and the costumes of the people of India — London, 1866

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GOLD AND SILTED TISSUES.

J13

GOLD AND SILVER TISSUES.

In these Tissues the flattened wire—called Taash—instead of being twisted round
silk thread, is itself used—the warp or the weft, as the case may be, being of very fine
silk thread, so as to interfere as little as possible with the continuity of the surface
presented by the metal. It is thus that the cloths of gold and silver, of which we hear
in Eastern countries, are made. These are employed in India by the rich as sashes, for
mantles to throw round their children’s shoulders, for marriage garments, &c. An examina-
tion of the examples given in the books and described in the Table below will afford a
good idea of this class of fabrics.

No. of



Measurement.



Place of




Description.



Weight

Cost.

Manufacture,






of Piece.

or whence

Yol. ,

Sample.



Length.

Width.



procured.





yds. ins.

yds. ins.

lbs. oz.

£ s. d.


VII.

261

A

Fine crimson silk weft, warp of flat-

2 31

0 24

0 5

about.

Hyderabad,



5

tened gold wire.




1 16 0

Deccan.



A

(No. 270 illustrates the use of this








_Pn_

kind of cloth as a basis for hand








S 0

embroidery.)






VII.

263

CO #

Fine crimson silk weft, warp of gold,

2 33

0 261

0 5|



Hyderabad,



Ph

and striped with crimson silk cord.




about.

Deccan.

VII.

265

Fine crimson silk weft, warp of gold

2 0

0 25

0 4

1 16 0

Hyderabad,



1

striped with green silk cord.





Deccan.

VII.

268

ft*

A

Warp of crimson silk, weft of gold

1 9

0 28

0 51



Moorshedabad,



O

O

(figured).





Bengal.

VII.

262

A

Fine white silk weft, warp of flattened

2 32

0 231

0 51



Hyderabad,



A

&

silver wire.





Deccan.

VII.

264

Ph

Fine white silk weft, warp of silver -

1 0

0 22i

0 If



Hyderabad,








Deccan.

VII.

267

s 6

Warp of white silk, weft of silver -

1 4

0 331

0 41

T—

Moorshedabad,



(d £





Bengal.

VII.

266

l g

Fine white silk weft, warp of silver,

2 33

0 24

0 51

- -

Hyderabad,




striped with crimson silk cord.





.Deccan.

VII.

269

£

Warp of white silk, weft of silver,

1 8

0 31

0 51



Moorshedabad,



CO

square figured pattern.





Bengal.

In addition to these tissues, gold and silver lace is made in some quantity at Benares,
Aurangabad, Boorhampore, Moorshedabad, Patna, Surat, and other places. It is of two
kinds. That called Kenari is from one to three inches in width, whilst the Gota is only
from ^ to f of an inch in breadth.

The gold and silver wire is usually of a superior quality.' Occasionally, however, an
inferior article of gilt or silvered copper wire is employed. Of the importance of using
only the very best materials in the manufacture of articles likely to be subjected to the
operation of washing, we have already spoken.

In the India Museum Collection is a loom-embroidered fabric from Thibet, to which
some allusion may here be made. It has been received under the name of Tachu, and its
ornamentation has been effected by using a weft of gilt paper, which has been cut into
very narrow strips for the purpose.
 
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