DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0148
116
PIECE QOODS.
2. Hand-Embroidery.'—Gold, Silver, Tinsel, and Beetle Wings.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
Vol.
Sample,
Length.
Width.
of Piece.
or -whence
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds.
ins.
lbs.
oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
274
White muslin, with gold flowers
Bed muslin, scroll and foliage pattern,
worked in flattened gold wire, with
flower sprigs in gold and beetle wing.
1 4
1
0
0
3
_
Madras.
VII.
276
9 22
1
3
1
ni
Madras.
VII.
277
White muslin, thickly embroidered with
gold and tinseL
1 29
1
13
0
12
Madras.
VII.
278
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
2 2
1
8
0
—
Madras.
VII.
279
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
3 7
1
12
0
H
7 10 0
Madras.
VII.
280
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
3 3
1
8
0
—
Madras.
XII.
445
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
flowers. An inch wide border of gold
lace, with figured edges of crimson silk.
For cholees.
0 22
1
7
0 13 0
Hyderabad,
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIV.
552
Silk gauze, crimson weft, blue warp ;
embroidered with gold flowers.
8 0
1
0
0
6|
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
XIV.
553
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
flowers.
8 0
0
34
0
6i
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
XIV.
554
Crimson silk gauze, embroidered with
gold flowers.
8 0
1
0
0
H
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
VII.
270
Gold cloth, embroidered with gold thread,
beetle wing, and silver tinsel,
2 22
0 20
0
61
Madras.
In the first part of Table 1 we have specimens of cotton embroidery on muslin, known
under the name of Chikan work, termed also Chikan-Kari or Chikan dozee. It includes
a great variety of figured or flowered work on muslin for gowns, scarfs, &c. It also
comprises a variety of net-work, which is formed by breaking down the texture of the
cloth with the needle, and converting it into open meshes. According to Taylor, Ma-
homedan dresses are frequently ornamented in this manner; and he adds that there are
about thirty varieties of this kind of work, of which the Tarter and Sumoonderlah are
considered the principal. It is said that the business of Chikan-Kari embroidery affords
employment to a considerable number of men and women in the town of Dacca.
In the second division of the first table we have a class of embroideries which, although
of a comparatively coarse description, occupy a position of some importance, on account
of the extent to which they are still exported to Arabia. These consist of fabrics of
Moonga silk, or of Moonga silk and cotton, embroidered either with cotton or Moonga
silk, but generally the latter.
The following is Taylor’s description of this class of goods:—
“ Some of these cloths are embroidered in the cotton portion of the warp with the
needle, and are then called Kashida. They vary in size from one and a quarter to six
yards in length, and from one to one and a quarter yards in breadth. Their price ranges
from 2 to 20 rupees (4s. to 40s.) per piece.
“ Cloth printers (chipigurs) are employed to stamp the figures for embroidering on the
khasida cloths. The stamps which they use for this purpose are small blocks of the wood
of the khutul tree, having the figures carved in relief. The dye is a red earth, which
is brought from Bombay, and is apparently what is called “ Indian earth” imported into
PIECE QOODS.
2. Hand-Embroidery.'—Gold, Silver, Tinsel, and Beetle Wings.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
Vol.
Sample,
Length.
Width.
of Piece.
or -whence
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds.
ins.
lbs.
oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
274
White muslin, with gold flowers
Bed muslin, scroll and foliage pattern,
worked in flattened gold wire, with
flower sprigs in gold and beetle wing.
1 4
1
0
0
3
_
Madras.
VII.
276
9 22
1
3
1
ni
Madras.
VII.
277
White muslin, thickly embroidered with
gold and tinseL
1 29
1
13
0
12
Madras.
VII.
278
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
2 2
1
8
0
—
Madras.
VII.
279
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
3 7
1
12
0
H
7 10 0
Madras.
VII.
280
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
tinsel.
3 3
1
8
0
—
Madras.
XII.
445
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
flowers. An inch wide border of gold
lace, with figured edges of crimson silk.
For cholees.
0 22
1
7
0 13 0
Hyderabad,
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIV.
552
Silk gauze, crimson weft, blue warp ;
embroidered with gold flowers.
8 0
1
0
0
6|
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
XIV.
553
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
flowers.
8 0
0
34
0
6i
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
XIV.
554
Crimson silk gauze, embroidered with
gold flowers.
8 0
1
0
0
H
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
VII.
270
Gold cloth, embroidered with gold thread,
beetle wing, and silver tinsel,
2 22
0 20
0
61
Madras.
In the first part of Table 1 we have specimens of cotton embroidery on muslin, known
under the name of Chikan work, termed also Chikan-Kari or Chikan dozee. It includes
a great variety of figured or flowered work on muslin for gowns, scarfs, &c. It also
comprises a variety of net-work, which is formed by breaking down the texture of the
cloth with the needle, and converting it into open meshes. According to Taylor, Ma-
homedan dresses are frequently ornamented in this manner; and he adds that there are
about thirty varieties of this kind of work, of which the Tarter and Sumoonderlah are
considered the principal. It is said that the business of Chikan-Kari embroidery affords
employment to a considerable number of men and women in the town of Dacca.
In the second division of the first table we have a class of embroideries which, although
of a comparatively coarse description, occupy a position of some importance, on account
of the extent to which they are still exported to Arabia. These consist of fabrics of
Moonga silk, or of Moonga silk and cotton, embroidered either with cotton or Moonga
silk, but generally the latter.
The following is Taylor’s description of this class of goods:—
“ Some of these cloths are embroidered in the cotton portion of the warp with the
needle, and are then called Kashida. They vary in size from one and a quarter to six
yards in length, and from one to one and a quarter yards in breadth. Their price ranges
from 2 to 20 rupees (4s. to 40s.) per piece.
“ Cloth printers (chipigurs) are employed to stamp the figures for embroidering on the
khasida cloths. The stamps which they use for this purpose are small blocks of the wood
of the khutul tree, having the figures carved in relief. The dye is a red earth, which
is brought from Bombay, and is apparently what is called “ Indian earth” imported into