LOOM-MADE GARMENTS.

13

LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OE MALE ATTIRE.

In describing the various articles of male attire in this group, we shall not start with
those fulfilling the purpose for which clothing was probably first adopted, but rather begin
with those which have to do with the protection and adornment of the head.

After these we shall proceed with the description of those articles in the scarf form which
are employed to envelope the shoulders and upper portions of the body; next, those which
are used as a covering to the loins and lower extremities; and, lastly, those which are
employed simply to encircle the waist.

I.—TURBANS.

The Turban is in almost universal use throughout India.

As its chief function is the protection of the head from the heat of the sun, it is usually
of a fine muslin-like texture which, when folded, is at once light, bulky, and porous—thus
admirably fulfilling its main purpose.

Of the materials employed in the manufacture of turbans, cotton occupies the first place.
Besides being the cheapest and most abundant, it has the merit of being a good non-conductor
and of permitting at the same time the free escape of perspiration. It is farther recom-
mended by the fact that it admits of the ready introduction of other materials for the
purposes of adornment.

Silk, however, is used to some extent by the higher classes:—several places (like Seringa-
patam in olden times) being famous for the manufacture of silk turbans.

Wool is not often used in the manufacture of turban pieces; when it is used, they
are generally in the form of small shawls, those of embroidered Cashmere cloth being
good illustrations.

The tribe or caste to which the wearer belongs frequently determines the size and shape
of the turban, and there are numerous varieties which take special names from their forms
or from the materials of which they are made.*

* The following are some of the names by which the Turban, or Pugri, is known :—

Puttee-dar pugri. A compact, neat turban, in very general use both by Hindus and Mahomedans.

Joore-dar pugri. Similar to the Puttee-dar, but has a knot on the crown. Worn also by Hindus and Mahomedans.

Khirkee-dar pugri. Full-dress turban of Hindu and Mahomedan gentlemen attached to native courts, and with
the Goshwara, or band of brocade, is portion of an honorary dress presented on certain state occasions to
persons of rank by native princes. In the lower provinces this is, however, worn by Hindus only.

Nustalih. A full dress turban of the finest plain muslin, used with the court dress of Mahomedan Durbars, as at
Delhi in olden times, and at Hydrabad, &c., in the present day. This form is very small, and fits closely to the head.

Chakveedar. A form of turban used by Mahomedans of Mysore and South of India. The court form of the ancient
Beejapore monarchy, continued by Tippoo Sultaun.

Sethi. Used by bankers, &c. A small form not unlike the Nustalik.'

Mundeel. Turban of muslin, with gold stripes, spots, and ends. Usually worn by military officers.

Surbund.

Surbuttee.

Buttee.

Morassa. A short turban.

Umamu. A loose turban.

Duslar. A fine muslin turban.

Shumla. A shawl turban.

Derived from Sur the head and Bandhua to bind—Buttee signifying twisted or coiled round.