174
PICTURESQUE PALESTINE.
camp. The water which flows through the pool is fed from the springs of Jericho. To this
spot the natives, giving it a Mohammedan colouring, have transferred the miraculous fall of
the walls of the besieged city and also the standing still of the sun over Ouarantania.
But slight as are the vestiges of the Canaanitish cities, those of the great city of Herod
are scarcely more distinct. An incurious traveller might wander over the whole site, and be
scarcely conscious of any traces of antiquity. On each side of the pass from Jerusalem as it
debouches into the plain is a ruined tower, marking probably the sites of the great castles
which defended the pass, and which Pompey destroyed. Just below are the remains of a
castle (El Kakun), and running across the plain from the Wady Kelt is a magnificent aqueduct,
under which the road passes, where eleven pointed arches span the dry river-bed. Near this
is a large reservoir, Birket Musa, the Pool of Moses, one hundred and eighty-eight yards by
one hundred and fifty-seven, long since ruined and neglected. There are traces of the Roman
road, once the great thoroughfare from the East to Jerusalem, and two or three sycamore figs
still linger by the roadside, lineal descendants perhaps of those trees up one of which
Zacchseus climbed to see Jesus as He passed by on His way to Jerusalem.
After the destruction of the place by Pompey, Antony had it rebuilt, with the assistance
of Herod, and gave it to Cleopatra, from whom Herod governed it for a time, and afterwards
secured all its revenues for himself. Here he built palaces, forts, and amphitheatres, and
often himself resided, and here, after vainly seeking a cure in the springs of Callirrhoe,
he came to die. It was in the hippodrome here that the dying monster had all the chief
Jews confined, that they might be massacred at his death and a general mourning insured ;
and in the amphitheatre of Jericho, Salome announced his death. Soon afterwards destroyed
in a rebellion, Archelaus restored it in yet greater magnificence, and such it was when our
Lord visited it. Vespasian again destroyed it ; Hadrian rebuilt it, and garrisoned it with
the tenth legion. It was the seat of a bishopric under the Byzantine empire and full
of churches and convents, but appears to have been swept with the besom of destruction
by Shahr Barz, the general of the ruthless Chosroes, a.d. 614. From that period to the time
of the Crusades churches and monasteries arose again. The caliphs knew the value of the
district and encouraged agriculture, but the city had gone for ever.
The present Er Riha, or New Jericho, sprung up in the times of the Crusades, when a
few huts were clustered round the fort built for the protection of pilgrims (see page 168). A
square tower is the only architectural feature of the wretched village, and is dignified by the
name of the house of Zacchseus. It is occupied by a few Turkish soldiers. The huts round
it are built of the remains of older buildings, and the inhabitants are a peculiar and most
degraded race, very dark, and quite distinct from either Bedouin or the fellahin of the upper
country. We feel inclined, as we look at them, to agree with the Jewish belief that they
are the descendants of the old Canaanites, degenerated by the oppressive climate and the
vices of the Ghor. They are the only people who reside during the whole year in the
Jordan valley. The fellahin higher up only come down in autumn and winter to cultivate,
PICTURESQUE PALESTINE.
camp. The water which flows through the pool is fed from the springs of Jericho. To this
spot the natives, giving it a Mohammedan colouring, have transferred the miraculous fall of
the walls of the besieged city and also the standing still of the sun over Ouarantania.
But slight as are the vestiges of the Canaanitish cities, those of the great city of Herod
are scarcely more distinct. An incurious traveller might wander over the whole site, and be
scarcely conscious of any traces of antiquity. On each side of the pass from Jerusalem as it
debouches into the plain is a ruined tower, marking probably the sites of the great castles
which defended the pass, and which Pompey destroyed. Just below are the remains of a
castle (El Kakun), and running across the plain from the Wady Kelt is a magnificent aqueduct,
under which the road passes, where eleven pointed arches span the dry river-bed. Near this
is a large reservoir, Birket Musa, the Pool of Moses, one hundred and eighty-eight yards by
one hundred and fifty-seven, long since ruined and neglected. There are traces of the Roman
road, once the great thoroughfare from the East to Jerusalem, and two or three sycamore figs
still linger by the roadside, lineal descendants perhaps of those trees up one of which
Zacchseus climbed to see Jesus as He passed by on His way to Jerusalem.
After the destruction of the place by Pompey, Antony had it rebuilt, with the assistance
of Herod, and gave it to Cleopatra, from whom Herod governed it for a time, and afterwards
secured all its revenues for himself. Here he built palaces, forts, and amphitheatres, and
often himself resided, and here, after vainly seeking a cure in the springs of Callirrhoe,
he came to die. It was in the hippodrome here that the dying monster had all the chief
Jews confined, that they might be massacred at his death and a general mourning insured ;
and in the amphitheatre of Jericho, Salome announced his death. Soon afterwards destroyed
in a rebellion, Archelaus restored it in yet greater magnificence, and such it was when our
Lord visited it. Vespasian again destroyed it ; Hadrian rebuilt it, and garrisoned it with
the tenth legion. It was the seat of a bishopric under the Byzantine empire and full
of churches and convents, but appears to have been swept with the besom of destruction
by Shahr Barz, the general of the ruthless Chosroes, a.d. 614. From that period to the time
of the Crusades churches and monasteries arose again. The caliphs knew the value of the
district and encouraged agriculture, but the city had gone for ever.
The present Er Riha, or New Jericho, sprung up in the times of the Crusades, when a
few huts were clustered round the fort built for the protection of pilgrims (see page 168). A
square tower is the only architectural feature of the wretched village, and is dignified by the
name of the house of Zacchseus. It is occupied by a few Turkish soldiers. The huts round
it are built of the remains of older buildings, and the inhabitants are a peculiar and most
degraded race, very dark, and quite distinct from either Bedouin or the fellahin of the upper
country. We feel inclined, as we look at them, to agree with the Jewish belief that they
are the descendants of the old Canaanites, degenerated by the oppressive climate and the
vices of the Ghor. They are the only people who reside during the whole year in the
Jordan valley. The fellahin higher up only come down in autumn and winter to cultivate,