Wilson, Charles W. [Editor]; Fenn, Harry [Ill.]: Picturesque Palestine: Sinai and Egypt ; in 2 volumes (Band 1) (New York, 1881)

Metadaten

Wilson, Charles W. [Editor]; Fenn, Harry [Ill.]
Picturesque Palestine: Sinai and Egypt ; in 2 volumes (Band 1) — New York, 1881

DOI Page / Citation link:

https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.10357#0300

Use/Order

Information about full text search/OCR

Titelblatt

WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL AND WOOD FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS

Contents

Situation of Jerusalem.—View from the Mount of Olives.—Walls and Gates of the City.—The Citadel.—Herod's … En Gannim.—Jezreel.—Gilboa.—The Kishon.—Tabor.—Defeat of Sisera.—Gideon's Victory.—Battlefields.—Shunem. … Tiberias.—View from the Castle.—View from Hermon.—View from Tabor.—Cana of Galilee.—The Crusaders.— … Gennesaret.—Site of Capernaum.—Site of Bethsaida.—Cliffs of Akhbara.—Safed.—Earthquakes.—Synagogues at

CESAREA PHILIPPI AND THE HIGHLANDS OF GALILEE. By the Rev. Dr. SELAH MERRILL . . 335 … The Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon.—The Buka'a.—Oaks of Bashan.—Sacred Trees.—Lake Phiala.—Wady et Teim. … Spring-time.—The Bedawin.—To Palmyra vzd Kurytein.—Temple of the Sun.—The Grand Colonnade.—Tri- … 'Ain Fijeh.—Suk Wady Barada.—Abila.—Ancient Tombs and Tablets.—Plain of Zebedany.—Source of the Barada. … The Quarries.—Method of raising Colossal Stones.—Temple Platform.—Tunnels.—Temple of the Sun.—The Six

List of illustrations

III

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. … Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives … The Vale of Nazareth … Rivers of Damascus … ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. … Masjed el Majahidin—Mosque of the Knights of the … The Mount of Olives....... … The Southern Slopes of Olivet and the Mountains of … Entrance to the Hospice of St. John and Minaret of … The Tomb of David ....... … The Street of the Damascus Gate..... … The Chapel in the Cave of the Cross .... … The Summer Pulpit, Platform of the Dome of the Rock … Old Cypress-trees in the Haram esh Sherif

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. … The Golden Gate of the Haram esh Sherif . … Interior of the Dome of the Rock..... … The Cave under the Great Rock on Mount Moriah … The Facade of the Mosque el Aksa, Jerusalem … The traditional Cave of Adullam, at Khureitun … Khan ez Zait, the great Bazaar of the Oil Merchants … Dead Sea and Mountains of Moab from Mar Saba … Hermits' Caves in the Cliffs of the Kedron . … The Jewish Cemetery in the Valley of Jehoshaphat … The Garden of Gethsemane ...... … Exterior of the Golden Gate ...... … Neby Samwil, from the Mount of Olives … Traditional Site of Bethphage, the House of Figs . … Mount Quarantania, from the site of Jericho . … Mukmas, the ancient Michmash, in the Wady Suweinit … Jeba, the ancient Geba of Benjamin . . . . … Saracenic Fountain on the Aqueduct from Solomon's … Neby Samwil, the ancient Mizpeh, the watchtower of … Beit 'Ur el Foka, on the site of Upper Beth-horon … The Valley of Hinnom ....... … Valley of Ajalon, from the west . . . . . … Curye el 'Anab, the Village of Grapes .... … In the Shepherds' Field, Bethlehem . . . . … Franciscan Monastery and Church of St. John at 'Ain … Karim, in the so-called " Wilderness of St. John " . … Altar of Church of St. John, 'Ain Karim … The Village of Sh'afat, on the supposed site of Nob, … Mosque and Tomb at Er Ram, the Ramah of Benjamin

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. … A Plait tor tne iNigxit m tne jvnan oi xm on en, uie an- … TKp A/illatrp nf Taivihph from thp PTpicrhtc; of Rnmman … ^pilun nn flip <%itp of Shilnh … Northern end of the Sea of Galilee from the Castle nf … C* octlp " in W7 a r\\t T iinn^n (\ pnnn^ n 1 … TnrnK'c "\A7"p 11 of" tnp f nnt nf ATm mt pti 71 m … IVTnd pm ^onrtmnr q t thp F nivavn^F* tn thp \/a 11 Ptr of … ' I'hCTr\i nf (~*,1111 pp ffnm ' A in pt T'ln tlTP T^niintom nf … On t no Qnn»"p nf tnp T il'p nt Ft Ln nirrnQ n tnp cnn … T^^HIitg anrl r^pri7im from thp Gnnth-w'PQtprn clnnp^ of … Cn i'pvn c in thp (~"liffc nf W'i c\\t T pi m nn … rt of thp Cn1nnn,nrlp whirh nnrp pn rirrlprl ma rip … \< n i n a 1 Ainin /t^ho Y< r\ m on 1 ofri c~\ \ tnP cn nnA con r 11 a … of Megiddo ........ … The Castle of Zerin (Jezreel) ...... … A in Jalud, the Fountain of Jezreel, known also as … Remains of Roman Aqueduct at Banias (Cassarea … Entrance to the Cave of Endor ..... … The Fountain of the Virgin, Nazareth .... … The traditional Mount of Precipitation, Nazareth . … The Citadel of the Castle of Subeibeh .... … A Cup of Coffee on the Heights of Subeibeh

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. … The Ruins of the Temple at Hebbariyeh … uiceK inscription on an ancient anu disused Uoorway … The Palace of Hasbeiya .... … The Gorge of the Litany .... … Western Side of the Ruins of the Temple of the Sun, … Medallion on the Temple at Rukhleh . … The Gorge of the Burada (Abana), through which the … View of Palmyra, from the Grand Colonnade, showing … the Castle in the distance ..... … of the Minaret of 'Isa (Jesus) . … The Tomb of Saladin, Damascus . … The Mosque of Sabumyeh, Damascus . … The Mohammedan Day School in the Shoemakers' … The Arch of Triumph, Damascus . … A Narrow By-way in Damascus . … Mosque of the Tekiyeh, or Hospice of the … Makbaret Bab es Saghir (Burial-ground of the Little … The Horse Bazaar, Damascus, as it appears on … The South-east Corner of the Temple of the Sun, … Houses on the City Wall, Damascus … The Large Stone in the Quarry, Ba'albek … A Cedar of Lebanon

Introduction

VII

HE writers on sacred geography may be divided into three classes. There was first … Chateaubriand was the first. He described—inaccurately, but still with a sense of what he … ceded them in the person of one who must be called for all practical purposes the discoverer

VIII

travels, are well-nigh countless. Their books are amongst the least worthy of the noble … words only need here be added to express the value of such an addition to our knowledge

cannot be destroyed or altered by time, and represent a series of adventures and hiding- … yet, by the general elevation of the whole country, have given form and substance to the

In the New Testament they can for the most part only supply the external framework

Jerusalem

tain city. Situated in the heart of … The chief entrance to the city of Jerusalem, as it appears from within the

The modern city stands, as did the ancient one, on the southern extremity of a … sharply to the south and forms at its southern extremity the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The

to be capable of offering a determined resistance to the most celebrated armies of the ancient … Immediately beyond the Kedron Valley, "before" or to the east of Jerusalem, is the … Showing the rudely constructed wooden bridge across the moat and Turkish sentries on guard,

"gazing up into heaven" (Acts i. n); and still farther northward is Scopus, the brow of the … to the Jordan Valley, and that strange salt sea which occupies the deepest depression of the … of Anion and other streams find their way to the lower depths, extends from Mount Gilead

THE TOWER OF DAVID.—PHASAELUS.

Haram esh Sherif. The surface of the Haram enclosure is studded with cypress and olive, … modern walls the ground is thickly covered with houses, except on the west, where there is an … cathedral, and hospice, which, like some great fortress or barrack, overshadows and … Jerusalem is entirely surrounded by a massive wall built by Sultan Suleiman in a.d. 1542.

vicinity of the Zion Gate, whilst another, named " El Wad," or Valley Street, follows, except … The towers were built of blocks of white stone of great size, " so exactly joined … any insurrectionary movements on the part of the Jews.

THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. … specimens of masonry in the far-famed

THE SOUTHERN SLOPES OF OLIVET AND … a cistern for the collection of rain-water. … the reception room of the same king.

Crusaders ; and when the city walls were destroyed by the Moslems in the thirteenth century, … identified with the tower of Hippicus by the discovery of an aqueduct twelve feet below

the level of the present conduit, which is probably that by which, according to the Jewish … Within the Citadel there is ruin and rubbish everywhere ; without, in the moat, soldiers' … Citadel, on the east side of Armenian Street, which leads to the Zion Gate, is Christ Church,

Proceeding southward along Armenian Street, we have on the right the fine gardens of

and the smokers in the foreground, are all … is capable of containing about … cesspit of the foulest descrip-

fever and sickness. The Church of St. John the Baptist, or " Forerunner," has been built … wherein was never man yet laid," which Joseph of Arimathsea "had hewn out in the rock" in

building with a circular apse and an opening towards the east; the square Church of … has left an account of the buildings as they then existed, and a description of the numerous

ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.

St. John ; in front of this building are the bases of three columns, probably the remains … Angel St. Michael, whence a passage leads to the Coptic Monastery. On the west side are

the "Ointment Bearers"—originally the Chapel of the Trinity—where all marriages and … with three apses, now walled up and divided into chambers, runs round the western half of

entrance to the Chapel of the Angels are gigantic wax candles, lighted only on certain solemn … the tomb are three bas-reliefs in white marble representing the resurrection. … then the Armenian Chapel of the " Parting of the Vestments." Still further, at the east end of

THE CHAPEL IN THE CAVE OF THE CROSS,

" Column of the Derision," a fragment of a granite column on which Christ is said to have sat

St. Helena and the Penitent Thief. The position of the third apse is occupied by an opening … lady of Jerusalem who was afflicted with an incurable illness ; the crosses of the thieves had … Not far from the entrance to the church, and close to the " Stone of Unction," is the … pilgrims who have got close to the aperture keep their hands fixed in it with a clench never

to be the belief of the Arab … these tangled masses of twenty, … respond in like manner, adding

course is cleared, and out of the Greek Church on the east of the Rotunda a long procession … The peasant walking up the street, wearing an embroidered abai, or cloak made of goats' hair, is carrying a plough. On the right sits … dancers, becomes universal. Hedged in by soldiers, the two huge masses of pilgrims still

remain in their places, all joining, however, in a wild succession of yells, through which are … and fall in behind. One great movement sways the multitude from side to side. The crisis

direction the raging mob bursts in upon the troops, who pour

on the north side of the chapel to the wall of the church. By the aperture itself stands … through the area below, is one wide blaze of thousands of burning candles. It is now that, … the fire is communicated ; and perhaps not the least extraordinary part of the spectacle is the

in the above-mentioned Turkish Barracks (see page 30). The second station is in the street … of thorns and the purple robe," and presented Him to the multitude with the memorable … Christ addressed the women who accompanied him with the words, " Daughters of Jerusalem, … to place in the city whenever necessity or convenience required their removal.

MASJED EL MAJAHIDIN—MOSQUE OF THE KNIGHTS OF THE CRESCENT.

Kubbst Dirka, built by a nephew of Saladin in the thirteenth century. Extensive excavations

travelling rugs, crowd together in family groups till they are hardly distinguishable from … and wayfarers who select this spot must move at a very early hour in the morning, to make … Two peasant women seated in the foreground, and a man of Silwan (Siloam) carrying a patched goat's skin filled with water from Job's Well. … mentioned by Josephus as being situated on the western hill, prior to the capture of the city

Bethlehem and Artas, troops of donkeys come laden with enormous cauliflowers and turnips, … veils, carry on their heads baskets of grapes, figs, prickly pears, pomegranates, and apricots, or

here by weight to the makers of conserves and attar of roses. Hotel-keepers and servants … In an hour or two the market people disperse, and only a few retail sellers of fruit or of … As soon as the market is over the crowds increase in the bazaars. The narrow bazaar, of … towards the east, and generally littered with vegetable refuse. The shops on each side of the

maker's shop to be found in the city. There is one not far

especially to see all his family newly shod for a fete day. In the same neighbourhood the … mandaf, the long string of which on being beaten into the cotton quickly converts it into … Cotton-cleaners are frequently employed in private houses to purify and lighten mat-

A turning eastward out of Christian Street leads through dirty crooked streets of stairs … come and buy!" The cry of the … Sherif, one of tne most

holy places. Within its area was, according to tradition, the scene of Abraham's sacrifice … masonry rises to a height of one hundred and eighty feet, at another to a height of one

in the systematic and scientific exploration of Palestine. The arch is fifty feet long, and it … were adorned with deep sculptures in wood ; the high part in the middle was of polished

gained the Temple area by a ramp or flight of steps. North of " Barclay's Gate" is the … THE DAMASCUS GATE—BAB EL AMUD (GATE OF THE COLUMN). … Simon, son of Gioras, when, after the capture of Jerusalem by Titus, he passed from the

Roman soldiers in the place where the Temple had stood. The principal approach to … from the west side of the Temple enclosure. A short distance to the north is Bab

as was the Tower of Antonia … as the " Tower of Antonia " … lation of Jerusalem as the mosque and ceme- … ensue." The inscription throws light on the

arose, and the people were about to put Paul to death, when the commandant of the fortress … The ditch alluded to as separating the rock on which the Turkish barrack stands from

the hill on the north has been traced for some distance along the line of the Via Dolorosa, … end of one of the souterrains … it derived its supply of water. … of Bethesda. The reservoir is … shown that in the lower por- … below the surface of the Temple … hardly be appreciated on account … OI tile rUDDlSn, WnlCn rises tO a a narrow picturesque street, with projecting lattice-work windows of many kinds.

height of thirty-five feet above the floor. At the west end are two parallel passages running … and 69). Moslem funerals pass into the Haram esh Sherif by the " Gate of the Tribes," and

so much attention. The letters are either cut into or painted on the stones. The incised

FOUNTAIN OF THE GATE OF THE CHAIN—BAB ES SILSILEH.

masonry. The Single Gate, the nearest of the three gateways to the south-east angle, is a … which lies beneath one of the aisles of Solomon's Stables. … to three parallel passages, which, after running some dis-

cramps. The style of ornament is similar to that of the Golden Gate. The Double Gate is … they were conceived, and for the skill with which they were carried out, without a parallel in … and examined it, and, in order that you may have an idea of the extent of our work, I will … to the man who is visible is a thirty-four feet rope ladder, and, on descending by it, one finds … feet. On passing along, one notes the marvellous joints of the Sanctuary wall stones, and

straddles across it. Then can be seen that one course in the Sanctuary wall, near the bottom, … under which the men retire whenever an accidental shower of stones renders their position … might be a water-conduit underneath. We scrambled along for a long way on our feet, our … one mile in circuit.

level of the pavement on which the Dome of the Rock stands. Between the corner and the

ide of the Haram esh Sherif is the Mosque el Aksa, and in front of it is a level space

is said to have ascended into heaven. The platform has four sides, but none of its sides are … The platform is approached by several flights of steps, at the top of which are screens … sixteenth century. In course of time several of the pointed arches fell out, and the western

Crusades, will bear no other interpretation." Some of these arcades were at one time formed … The aisle screen is perhaps the most interesting part of the building, and it is that upon

OLD CYPRESS TREES IN THE HARAM ESH SHER1F. … scription consists chiefly of

Him. Mohammed is the Apostle of God ; pray God for him. There is no god but God

When the Crusaders reached Jerusalem it is said that they found the Dome of the … the mosque was adorned, inside and outside, during the Christian occupation of the Holy … with mosaics formed of old material, amongst which there are many fragments of sculptured … directly from the capitals, are covered with a thin veneering of marble, black and white slabs

INTERIOR OF THE DOME OF THE ROCK.

The dome of the building is of wood, covered externally with lead, and internally

The " Sakhra" or Rock, which occupies the centre of the building, is overhung by a

south-east corner of the rock ; a flight of steps passes under an archway and leads down … sound, indicating the presence of a lower chamber, possibly a well, the " Well of Spirits." … the mysterious rock that the legends gather most thickly. On the Sakhra, if we are to

him the choir, and on the left of the choir the Chapels of the " Presentation of Christ" … inscriptions commemorative of the appearance of the angel to Zacharias, and of the woman

in contact with Byzantine civilisation in other places, there is no known instance of a … divided into seven aisles. The building lies north and south, and the centre of the transept

the colours are not so effectively blended as in the windows of the Dome of the Rock.

pulpit, on the west, are the " Mihrab of Moses" and the " Footprint of Jesus;" and … Mohammedan tombs in the foreground.

time he plucked a leaf from one of the trees, placed it behind his ear, and hastened back … Omar was written to, and he at once replied that the prophecy of Mohammed was now … fresh there could be no doubt that it came from Paradise. The leaf had, of course, preserved … monolith, and the drafts disappeared. The two entrances of the Double Gate are … The Double Passage is reached by a flight of steps at the end of the western vault.

the south wall of the Temple. The direction of the passage, too, is of importance, as … In this south-east corner,

The floor of the Golden Gate is much below the level of the Haram, and the door which

KHAN-EZ-ZAIT, THE GREAT BAZAAR OF THE OIL MERCHANTS.

relief. The western and northern sides of the Haram area are lined with cloisters, but there … supply of water, and special … other by a network of conduits. … remarkable features of the

large openings ; and it is a remarkable fact that no large cisterns of this description are found … The nearer hill-side is the eastern slope of Ophel ; a good example

to the altar of a church. One of the cisterns north of the Dome of the Rock is identified … in three different places, or that Josephus, who knew very well what a stadium was, should

other gates led to the suburbs of the city; one of them is certainly that known now as … nected the Castle of An- … great number of steps and thence up

out to the Mount of Olives." The south side had "gates in its middle"—the Huldah Gate, … varying on each side of the Temple. The cloisters and Court of the Gentiles formed the

and a half feet high on the inside. In this wall there were seven orates : on the north the … by " apparently fifty cubits north and south, bounded on the east by a wall five cubits thick, … divided into the Holy Place—in which there were "three things that were very wonderful and

Robinson's Arch, Barclay's Gate, and Wilson's Arch are identified with three of the west … Dr. Sepp, and others, believe that the entire surface of the Haram enclosure was occupied by

wall is built on the remains of an older one ; there is here a great accumulation of rubbish, and … Zion Gate to the Dung Gate in the Tyropceon Valley, and thence to the Double Gate, the … Josephus describes the walls as follows. The first or old wall commenced on the north at the … Gate, or Bethso ; he then went on to the Gate of the Fountain and to the King's Pool in the … and entered by the Gate of the Valley and so returned." In the account of the rebuilding of

the Valley Gate, or near the south-west angle of the present city … quarter of the city, and reached as far as … Castle of Antonia seems to be … Showing the tombs of Zachariah, St. James, and Jehoshaphat. Bridge over the rocky bed of the twenty-five feet above the

possibly mark the line of the second wall, and that the solid nature of the substructure upon

the junction of David Street and Christian Street. The third or outer wall began "at the … The entrance to the quarries is by a small hole between the roof of the cavern and the rubbish

THE VILLAGE OF SILOAM FROM THE TOMB OF ST. JAMES.

pathway over the Mount of Olives, returning by the lower road above Siloam. Passing out … by a single arch ; and a few paces now brings the traveller to the Chapel of the Tomb of tl

The chapel is on the left of the road. A few steps lead down to an open court, in which there

tomb chamber. In its present state the chapel has little in common with the tombs in … olive-trees, which are said to date from the time of Christ, and which may, in truth, be direct … Eusebius mentions the large number of pilgrims who came from all parts of the world to

Theodericus, 1172 a.d., in his account of the Holy Places, states that Bethphage lay. … with the barren rocks of the adjoin- … of Lazarus, erected during the period of the Latin … EXTERIOR OF THE GOLDEN GATE.

the houses, there can be no doubt as to the correctness of the identification of El Azariyeh … MOSQUE AND CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION, MOUNT OF OLIVES:

growing out of the rocky … formed of the palm- … (Matt. xxi. 8). The two streams met. Half of the vast … the little valley that furrows the hill, and over the ridge on

corner of the city. The temple and the more northern portions are hid by the slope of Olivet … with the Mosque of David and the angle of the western walls, but then covered with houses

descent of the Mount of

of the city is again withdrawn behind the intervening ridge of Olivet. A few moments and … The road from Bethany to Jerusalem leaves Siloam (Silwan) on the left. This village … occupation is carrying water from " Job's Well" for sale in Jerusalem, and they have an … near the tomb of David, are those of the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians ; and here may be

cemetery is on the western slope of the same hill, above the Valley of Hinnom ; it is the only

One of the best examples of this class is the Tombs of the Kings (see page 103), situated … Returning to the Kedron Valley and following its course downwards, numbers of tombs

memory of the son of Onias, who was high priest during the reign of Ptolemy Soter. We … with two Doric pillars supports a frieze and cornice of the same order. Above the cornice

there is an inscription in Hebrew, connecting the tomb with the family of Beni-Hezir, and the … served as a cemetery to some one of the numerous monasteries founded quite early on the

that clay from this neighbourhood is still used by the potters of Jerusalem. From Aceldama … of this tomb is that the communications be- … leading to a chamber containing; two trough graves ; near these there are two kokim, one on

100

with trough graves, ogives access to a largfe chamber containing shelf graves. The roofs of all … second chamber was afterwards opened by Herod, who took out " furniture of gold and

101

excavated in this stratum. Captain Warren's excavations have shown us the deep rugged … The works connected with the water supply of Jerusalem are of very great interest. … level. The general direction of this underground flow and of the surface drainage of the … It was at one time supposed that the quantity of rain which fell at Jerusalem each year … November to March. During the remaining months even a slight shower is of the rarest

102

The modern supply of water is derived from springs, wells, cisterns, pools, or reservoirs, … THE BIRKET MAMILLA, COMMONLY CALLED THE UPPER POOL OF GIHON.

103

once in three or four days. … ROCK TOMBS NORTH OF JERUSALEM.

104

hundred feet long, about two feet wide, and from one foot ten inches to sixteen feet in … shaft, more than forty feet high, led upwards to a great corridor excavated in the rock, … below the junction of the Kedron and Hinnom Valleys. It has a depth of one hundred and

106

which was cut when the present south-west angle of the Haram esh Sherif was built, and it

107

between the beds of limestone ; even in the driest summer the percolation gives three or four … pended in mining out the underlying rock and … made before the use of the arch for covering

108

class are entirely dependent on the rain which falls during the winter; those which have been … embankment; at the sides the rock is left for the most part in its natural state. Immediately

109

an early date, and was sometimes identified with the Lower Pool of Gihon ; during the Latin … corner, and after having been used by the washerwomen of the city passes on to irrigate the … scarped rock is visible. The pool is admirably situated for collecting the surface drainage of … the siege by Titus. The Pool of Bethesda, or Birket Israil, does not now hold water; it is

110

filled with rubbish to a height of thirty-eight feet, and receives the drainage of the houses … source from which it originally derived its supply of water is not known, but at a later period … Pools. The Birket Israil has generally been called the Pool of Bethesda, or " Sheep Pool," by

111

pilgrims and others who have identified it with the pool mentioned in John v. 2 : " Now … west end of the pool are said to be two of the five … the place where the angel troubled the waters. Eusebius and Jerome say that the Pool of

112

indication of its position. The Bourdeaux pilgrim says that the double pools were more

113

text in having Gilion. Josephus, however, states that David ordered Zadok and Benaiah to … must have involved a great expenditure of time and labour. It consists of a drift or tunnel … was finally delivered in the Temple area at Jerusalem. From the pools to Bethlehem the … Hinnom a little above the Birket es Sultan (see page 106) on several pointed arches, which … Sion, enters the city near the Jewish almshouses. It then passes along the eastern side of … at the Gate of the Chain. The numerous Saracenic fountains in the lower part of the city

114

the Haram esh Sherif are in such a bad state of repair and so choked with rubbish that it … perhaps one or more of the pools, were the

115

Solomon's Pools, there is a place known as the " Well of the Steps," where a flight of steps

116

springs in the side valleys which contributed to the supply, but the principal source was the

117

Showing the position of Bir Eyub (Job's Well) just below the junction of the Kedron and … the constant presence of running water; and as the palace with its

118

The third source of supply was derived from several springs in a valley, Wady A rub, to … It will thus be seen that Jerusalem was during the brighter period of its history well

119

authority of the Talmud, form a small community apart from the other sects. … The Copts have a large monastery close to the eastern end of the Church of the Holy … The Latins or Roman Catholics are the most numerous of the Western Christians. They … The Protestant community, though small, is active in good works, and there are several

120

orphanage, a lepers' hospital, the hospital of the Kaiserswerth Deaconesses, a German Hospice … The full effect of the efforts which have been made to ameliorate the condition of the

Bethlehem and the north of Judaea

121

NORTH OF JUDAEA. … mighty men of Judah for the assault on the strong-

122

and paved, the chariot of Solomon must often have passed as he went to visit his favourite … We leave Jerusalem by the western or Jaffa Gate. On the right, just above us, is the … whitewashed piece of masonry surmounted by a central dome. It is Rachel's Tomb (see page … have but one tradition respecting it, and all agree in recognising the spot where, when Jacob

123

grave." The pillar has long since perished, though it existed there in the time of Moses, … recall how the prophet represents Rachel sitting weeping for her children as the long train of … the Evangelist transfers the figure to the Massacre of the Innocents by Herod. … A steep ascent leads up to Beit-Lahm, " the house of flesh," a phonetic accommodation … to their Moslem neighbours. The loosened earth under the olive-trees is carpeted in spring … suburbs, and in fact, planted on the crest of a narrow spur that projects eastward from the

124

Bible scenes. We see beyond the convents the bare wilderness of Judah creeping up almost … be too far off to be led into the town at night; and exposed to the attacks of the wild beasts … during the winter and spring months, when alone pasturage is to be found on these bleak … reached. When David exclaimed, " O that one would eive me to drink of the water of

125

of the side of the rock, and may once have been connected with a dwelling-house or a stable,

126

" a certain cave very close to the village ; " and Constantine lost no time in destroying an … The terraced hills of Beit Jala, the ancient Giloh, in the background.

127

convents gradually rose as accretions after the time of Jerome. The Emperor Manuel … The plan of the building is … ruined churches of the plains of Moab and … rows of eleven columns each on either side,

128

triple apse are frequently seen east of Jordan, as in the church on Mount Nebo, and in … The church escaped destruction when the Caliph Hakim laid waste the Church of the

129

the Chapter Library. Two winding sets of stone steps on the north and south lead us down … caverns, the tombs of Eusebius, of Paula and Eustachia, the devout friends and companions

130

Driven from Rome by the bitterness of theological partisanship, his fiery spirit found rest … Grotto of Bethlehem, till we possess one hundred and fifty epistles, sixteen treatises, thirteen … We shall see as we travel through Judaea how potent was the influence and example of

132

of the people in harvest may be more freely studied than in Christian and peaceful Bethlehem. … a few feet without detection, we can well understand the curse pronounced on the man who … walks up to the reapers, salutes them in the very words of Boaz, " The Lord be with you " … ears become half charred by the roasting, and there is a pleasant mingling of milky wheat and … harvest begins; thus Ruth gleaned ''unto the end of barley harvest and of wheat harvest."

133

We read that Boaz bid Ruth hold her veil, into which he put six measures of barley. … now not only the best-looking, but the best-dressed women of Palestine. Perhaps they owe

134

is certainly not Western, and was probably adopted by the settlers. Many of the towns and … the presence of Moslems or strangers. … but the lower row of coins which rests on the … in graceful folds upon the shoulders and down

135

The front of this gown above the waist is always more or less ornamented with embroidery … are at work indoors they often fasten back the long sleeves of their gowns and wear small … These Bethlehemite women lead no idle lives. The engraving on page 127 represents … their monotonous labour. There are no water-mills in the south, though they are common

136

condescend to it. In the houses of the richer class several servant-maids or slave-o-irls are … But we cannot leave Bethlehem without recalling some of those picturesque ceremonies … The Christmas festivals—for the Greek and Latin celebrations are on different days, o.s. … henceforth a palmer, entitled to wear the scallop-shell in his hat. The name " palmer " is

137

of the Jordan. But the palm has for ages been all but extinct round the " old city of palm- … quantities of the shell of the giant oyster of the Red Sea {Meleagrina mar gar it if era) are … English visitors invest. The articles most prized are the vases wrought out of the stinkstone

138

rosaries, of which piles may be seen heaped on the ground in front of the dealers. The … twenty-five years since, it was bleak and bare like the surrounding country; now on entering

139

THE GARDENS OF SOLOMON. … We now pass up the tiny glen to El Burak (Solomon's Pools), by the side of the direct … contrivance feed the reservoir. From the lower end of the lower pool the great aqueduct, by

141

But however this may be, the pools are undoubtedly of great antiquity, and the knowledge … the aqueducts by which Solomon supplied the Temple with water ? The roofing of portions

142

cell or laura of hermits on the spot, and himself died in the cavern which he had made his … largest in Palestine. When candles are lighted the disturbed bats flutter out in myriads, … From Khureitun, half an hour's ride brings us to the foot of Jebel Fureidis, the

143

VALLEY AND RUINS OF KHUREITUN, FROM THE CAVE OF ADULLAM.

144

pomp, his corpse being brought hither from Jericho, where he died in frightful agony, after … The view from the Frank Mountain at once suggests thoughts of David and his

145

are indeed in a labyrinth. What seemed from Frank Mountain to be continuous ranges, on … the central mountain range, guarding the rich corn valley of Elah. Thence he moved south

146

of Saul. From Hachilah he went to the wilderness of Maon, Nabal's home, which can easily … But after the second captivity we find the caves put to another use. When in the third

147

to be looked upon as an ascetic who adopted any other fashion than that of St. Jerome, or

148

wilderness, or from the Frank Mountain, skirting the Wady Nar (Valley of Fire), which is … reaching the Wady, the whole of the buttresses and towers of the convent come suddenly … where they are carefully scrutinised by the janitor. No Bedouin or ladies are admitted on any … the side of each other, much after the fashion of a colony of swallows' nests. In fact, the … with any proof of this phenomenon. In the largest court is the dome of the sanctuary, where … cave covered with pictures, whose silver casings gleam in the dim obscurity, and behind a

MAR SABA, VALLEY OF TIE KEHMKOT.

149

shelf in the little inner

150

For better security the key of the library is kept by … St. Saba, born in Cappadocia, a.d. 439, … the stormy vicissitudes of the Crusading … ENTRANCE TO THE CAVE OF ST. SABA.

151

the Syrian troubles in 1834, and was subsequently repaired by Russia. The convent is

153

scendant of St. Saba's lion. … able of their pets are the bronze- … birds are the most shy of the … for them in the air, while their … find ourselves in a region en- … of Mar Saba, is on the level of

154

In the rocks of this Kedron valley the curious little Syrian hyrax, the coney of Scripture, … hills, which gleamed so warm a glow before sunset, are shrouded in gloom, and the moon's … Dead Sea has often been described and still more often been the subject of romance. But let

155

there are nooks of surpassing loveliness and verdure. Such … where the fronds of the palm-tree … are rich in every hue … the Bahr Lut, " Sea of Lot." In one … by the Jordan, which leaps full grown at birth from one of … HERMITS' CAVES IN THE CLIFFS OF

156

and then the little lake four miles long. Its next halt is at the hallowed Lake of Galilee, six … the Moab shore it descends sheer for nine hundred feet. The southern portion, on the

157

rocks from beneath and pouring them forth in lava floods, may have caused the sudden … level. The history of its gradual subsidence is written on the western slopes, not only of … higher, for instance in the times of Joshua, the sites of Beth Hogla and Gilgal could scarcely … mountains, becomes dense and luxuriant, as in the Ghor Safieh, at the south-eastern corner of

158

CONVENT OF MAR SABA, FROM BROOK KEDRON,

159

NORTHERN END OF THE DEAD SEA … Known also as the Monastery of St. John, Hajla.

160

and depressed position. In the second place, the simple narrative of Genesis states that "the

161

SITE OF SODOM AND GOMORRAH. 161 … Conder, R.E.), suggests Wady Amriyeh, near Ain Feshkhah, at the north-west shoulder of … i.e. the lair of the hyena, the cliff just above Roman Jericho, he suggests as answering to … But we have lingered long enough over these faint traces of all but prehistoric cities.

162

When we come to places which still existed at the epoch of Joshua's conquest we are treading

163

VALLEY OF THE JORDAN, FROM THE CONVENT OF

164

uninjured, and the walls and outlines of the chapel can be distinctly traced. Of the history of … It appears to have been occupied three hundred and fifty years ago by monks of the order of … relieve the monotony. The river itself lies completely out of sight. Never except from some

165

the black stork and the noble Houbara bustard running on the barren plain behind, and being … and forming curling eddies at each sharp turn, generally most difficult to stem, and in most … spot just above one of these sharp turns, and

166

pilgrims was said to number hundreds of thousands ; and even now they amount to several … A stroll among the tented and untented groups will afford one of the most varied and

167

stition—nothing like the ceremonies of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Who that has … BIT ON THE .PLAINS OF JERICHO. … The camp of the previous night is reoccupied, and the pilgrims rest and sleep till sunset,

168

How long these pilgrimages have existed the ruins of the monasteries which stud the … of the bathing-places that these monasteries … they were maintained as a sort of religious … On the Site of the "New Jericho" of the Crusaders.

169

the Turkish Government, from the mixed motives of gain and of conciliating the Christian

170

have been polluted by the images of idols. It may excite surprise that the buildings of the … lation utterly impoverished. Then came a transient burst of spasmodic prosperity, when the … As we pass across the narrow belt of open plain which intervenes between the Monastery … it was supplied from the famous Prophet's Fountain. Of the seven monasteries recorded in

171

prickly jujube-bushes, then upon a rude fence of boughs thrown lightly on the ground, but … and ravines of which they might be searched for in vain. In the oasis of Jericho, whose … From the Prophet's Fountain we may set out to search for the traces of Gilgal, the

172

outside the cultivation of the oasis, and not quite one and a half mile from the modern … Commonly called the Fountain of Elisha, or the Prophet's Fountain.

174

camp. The water which flows through the pool is fed from the springs of Jericho. To this … still linger by the roadside, lineal descendants perhaps of those trees up one of which … often himself resided, and here, after vainly seeking a cure in the springs of Callirrhoe, … The present Er Riha, or New Jericho, sprung up in the times of the Crusades, when a

175

and the Bedouin in spring to pasture. The chief resource of the population now is the … of striking beauty, is abundant on the trees, and the apple

176

Leaving the sites of the deserted Cities of the Plain, we ascend from the Prophet's … which of these was the route taken by Joshua and the army of Israel, when after the fall of … Abyssinian pilgrims come every Lent and keep their forty-days' fast, on the spot where

178

hole in the roof, and we have found even three consecutive stories one above the other.

179

monasteries of the Jordan plain. … adduced in support of the theory. One is that the name 'Oreb, or raven, still clings to

180

one of the overhanging peaks. But "The Raven's Crag" is a name naturally suggested for … miles in a straight line to Jericho, yet the fall is three thousand six hundred and twenty feet, … the regulation of robbery to which he has been an assenting party. Thus the traveller … happens to be a frontier line, and be suddenly pounced upon and sent back in the … undertaken the safe conduct of all travellers on this road, a proceeding not unnaturally

181

MUKMAS, THE ANCIENT MICHMASH, IN THE WADY SUWEINIT.

182

will do well to make his own terms in a friendly way with the resident tribes. … springs and several smaller ones burst close together from the southern part of the Wady … son-in-law Ptolemy. The Book of the Maccabees calls it " a little hold," and not more than … Behind the ravines which open on the plain of Jordan at this point, and which run almost

183

HILL-COUNTRY OF LITTLE BENJAMIN. … on the one side, and the rich

184

Mukmas, stands on the north side of a ravine, the Wady Suweinlt, or Valley of the Thorn-

185

period of Saul, Geba is mentioned. When Isaiah describes the advance of Sennacherib upon … equipped portion of the army bivouac—" take up their … took to dismantle Ramah, and to employ all the resources of his kingdom in the building and

186

of the squalid village … the hills of Benjamin,

187

mourning their lost one, are but a sample of the herbage which covers all this neglected … From Geba and Michmash we turn four or five miles northward in search of a site yet … and it is to be noted that the word " tell " occurs only three or four times in the Hebrew

188

whence the plain can be seen. To the east there rises in the foreground the jagged range of … find ourselves bewildered among that labyrinth of … seems, if not modern, at least well preserved. We soon see that it is a minaret; it is, in fact, … Generally regarded as the Gibeah of Saul.

189

its city in this once densely peopled region. We have now almost unconsciously crossed the … Ramah of Benjamin. Over the nearer ridges we look far away beyond the Jordan Valley,

190

Beyond these a ribbon of yellow sand marks the line between the green plain and the blue … NEBY SAMWIL, THE ANCIENT MIZPEH, THE WATCHTOWER OF BENJAMIN. … caught their first sight of the Holy City, " and called it Mount Joy," says Sir John … his great victory over the five confederate kings, on an isolated hill stands the village of El Jib,

191

once an important fortress, Gibeon of Benjamin (see page 189). The country round the little

192

years before the building of Solomon's Temple, stood the national altar of sacrifice, where … and uninviting as the land of Benjamin is to-day, every knoll, every hillside, ribbed and … again, the cisterns cemented, and the water-courses repaired, the gorges of the Lebanon,

The mountains of Judah and Ephraim

193

BEIT 'UR-ET-TAHTA, ON THE SITE OF LOWER BETH-HORON.

194

summits of the chain. The ridge is a steep anticlinal—a great arch of hard rocks curving … The three great valleys thus noticed—the main drains of the mountain system—are fed

195

VALLEY OF AJALON.

196

the remains of the old pine forest, whence Arculphus describes Jerusalem as having been … The mountain region near Hebron and Jerusalem is specially fitted for the growth of the

197

VALLEY OF AJALON. … The view from the village extends on the south-west across the open Vale of Ajalon to

198

About a mile north of Latron the village of 'Amwas clings to the side of a bare chalky … annals of the Hasmoneans … bably the Aramaic form of … Two native ladies, mounted on asses and enveloped in large white cotton veils, called izzars,

199

In the Middle Ages a miraculous spring was shown at this second Emmaus, which was … of his retired warriors, and described by Josephus as sixty stadia from Jerusalem. … and sixty instead of sixty as the dis- … Jerusalem is too great to allow of … Kolonia, on the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, are among the most recent, and ecclesiastical

200

at the required distance of about sixty stadia north-west from Jerusalem. There is, however,

201

splendid church was built in the flat dell north-east of the village, and a convent was founded … which hides the Holy City from view. Beneath him is the small village of Kolonia, with its

202

another long and stony spur becomes visible, while on a shelf of rock between this ridge and … A favourite place of resort of the people of Jerusalem ; it is famous for its well-kept vineyards and vegetable gardens.

203

WADY BEIT HAN IN A. … west it runs south of Soba and

204

opens into a broad corn vale between rounded chalky hills, and here lie the ruins of … 'Ain K arim, the ancient Carem of Judah, is a site now consecrated by numerous eccle-

206

the black cypresses of the convent garden. The population of the village is now about six … in such cases very valuable ; but the Crusading traditions were more remarkable for their

207

As we approach the capital the number of traditional sites increases, and the scenes … tures on the sky-line … the " Vale of Roses," … how the chariot of the Ethiopian servant … at a late period from another site. In

208

apparently in its present position, by John Poloner. In the fourteenth century Marino Sanuto … Wady-el-Werd obtains its name from the cultivation of roses in the valley. The rose

209

mind's eye Judas and his brethren stealing down in the darkness and massing their troops at … the British legions of Severus. It is the same tale of indomitable courage, constant devotion

210

on that site as representing Anathoth, the home of the prophet Jeremiah ; and since the … occurring with those of … scribed by Theodorus in the … on his curious map, and we … Commonly cailed Philip's Fountain, and regarded as a sacred place by the Latins. StOnO of Bohan which WaS

211

actually east of Jericho. The village itself … The view from the high spur on which … 'ANATA, ON THE SITE OF ANATHOTH.

212

heather of Palestine—makes a marked contrast between the eastern and western slopes of the

213

broad olive groves. On his right are the steep cliff, and the cavern called since the fifteenth … The stony lane leads through the middle of the ancient Jerusalem cemetery, lining the

214

comes fully in view when approached from the north. Turning back to obtain a last glance … of the road, which one is

215

at Scopus, the place whence the great walls and golden facade of the Temple were first clearly … centuries, a village called Jehosaphat is mentioned north of the capital and seems to be the

216

" place of view," which was " over against Jerusalem," and possibly identical with the Sapha, or … city in the land of Benjamin where the Tabernacle stood from the death of Eli until the

217

having originally either a lower surrounding platform or flights of steps leading up. There is … of Benjamin as far north as … To the north-west, in the highest part of the village, are the … with Gibeah of Saul. In … village was by the " Valley of Thorns; " and we are thus, apparently, directed to Gibeah of … thorn tree," which runs beneath the ancient cliff of Seneh, or " the thorn bush." Gibeah also

218

heap, which forms so prominent a feature on the barren plateau. Following the road which … After passing Er Ram the path leads under the hill of 'Attara, the Astaroth of the … Pausing by the spring which runs out beneath the walls of a little building which forms … The church, which was built by the Franks in the first half of the twelfth century, was … behind in Jerusalem. The story is not, however, mentioned in the Byzantine accounts of … The apses and side walls, with beautiful carved capitals of various designs once supporting

219

the roof arches, are all now remaining of the church. The walls are of unusual thickness, … occur in the earliest speci- … outer wall has the appearance of … bleak can be well imagined. On the … REMAINS OF A CHURCH AT BEITIN.

220

miserable hamlet of half-ruinous stone huts, with a central high house or tower. Drystone … and the same site was revisited by that patriarch on his return from Egypt. Probably the … From the sanctuary the name seems, by the time at which the Book of Joshua was written,

221

ancient religious gathering, as the golden calves, symbolic of Jehovah, were the same emblems … Burj Beitin ; to the north is Deir Shabib, " the monastery of young men " mentioned in the … Close to the village is the ruin of a little church with a single apse, having the appearance

222

THE VILLAGE OF TAIYIBEH FROM THE HEIGHTS … site of Abraham's altar; and the … the main road north of Bethel; and here, as we

223

deep valley (Wady-el-Jlb) runs northward between steep mountain sides. Terraces of … A characteristic example of a valley in the favoured territory of Ephraim. The olive-trees, shading the ancient foot-paths, proclaim that … sides of the ravine. The Christian village of jufna lies in the widest part of the basin, and

224

the ancient Gophna, the capital of one of the ten toparchies, or counties, into which Judaea … Bir-ez-Zeit, a good-sized village on the mountain to the west of Gophna, is probably … lay within sight of the Jewish army, occupying the high ridge which is visible west of Wady- … sepulchres (one having a Hebrew inscription), is that of the ancient Jeshanah, one of the

225

all Christian villages. In the Middle Ages nearly all this district belonged to the Church,

226

highest point in Southern Palestine, … upper rocks ; and the cry of the wild … ANCIENT DOORWAY AT SHILOH, AND RUINS OF THE "CONVENT

227

chamber in the cliff, and the view is closed by the terraced hill, dark with olives, on the … Peasants winnowing grain with large wooden forks, and ateam dragging a sledge, the under surface of which is armed with sharp flints, to … through the pass. Even within the last half-century the castle has been the scene of faction … a steep mountain pass in front. To the left, on the hill, is the village of Sinjil; to the right,

228

of Toulouse, " dit de Saint Gilles," advanced by this road, and camped at a certain casale on … The region between Bethel and Shechem, belonging to the tribe of Ephraim, is yet … being left, without any protector, to the tyranny of the Turks. But another reason for the … southern of these—one of the longest valleys in the country—is formed by the junction

229

of Ephraim from that of Manasseh. Both valleys form a junction near Ras-el-'Ain, and the

230

calls it the Tomb of Eli and his sons, Hophni and Phinehas. The building just described … sunk court, four hundred feet long and seventy-five feet wide, which exists on the side of the

231

for four centuries fixed at Shiloh, and only after the death of Eli and the loss of the Ark

232

applies to part of the plain south of Shiloh, may preserve the memory of the yearly feast at … Pere Lievin, the able author of the Catholic guide-book for pilgrims, seems to have been

234

immediately north of it, we cross into the region of Samaria and become concerned with … sepulchres, we have thus an accord between four distinct lines of tradition, and the existence … previously crossed, though smaller than the watershed plains north of Shechem (see page 237).

235

and form sites for the villages. The present name Mukhnah is taken from the ruin of the old … little doubt that 'Awertah represents Gibeah Phinehas in Mount Ephraim, where Eleazar, the

236

accounted for were it not for the jealousy with which—as we learn from the Book of Genesis— … " drunken," and was a Jewish nickname for the Samaritan capital. The spelling of the old

237

is mentioned by name in the Book of Acts. Sychar was well known to the early pilgrims as

238

grey olive groves hide Shechem from our sight; the rough rocky side of Gerizim rises to the

Samaria and plain of Esdrealon

239

PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. … or where the history of the past is so vividly illustrated, as in the narrow Vale of Shechem,

240

And Shechem must have been regarded as a specially favoured and hallowed spot in … To this neighbourhood, and probably to the same camping ground, Jacob in after years

241

teen or eighteen inches in diameter, and resemble rude altars, their summits being slightly … had recently been burnt there. It is said that small objects, such as kerchiefs of embroidered … Samaritans, for here, according to the Samaritan chronicle, are " the tombs of the holy priests … building itself is familiarly called a "wely." Similar structures are erected on spots connected

242

protection of the invisible guardian of the place, after perhaps lighting a little lamp to propitiate

243

the Vale of Shechem, to which we will now return, pausing for a few moments on our way by … Through the olive groves on the eastern side of the city ; the gate is shown beneath the minaret.

244

by means of ropes supplemented by two long shawls, which formed the turbans of two … conveyed safely -to Dr. Wilson, to his very great satisfaction. It was currently believed in … the process of lowering. As the rope had fortunately been securely and skilfully lashed round … skirting the base of Gerizim. On the right is the ancient pasture-land of Jacob and his

245

At the east end of the city; it was originally a church dedicated to St. John.

246

of Nablus appear, rather more than half a mile distant. … But the scene changes. The Ark of the Covenant is lost and the children of Israel … difference with regard to fertility between the " Mountain of Blessing" and the " Mountain of

247

waysides are in many … MOUNT EBAL, FROM/THE GARDENS S.W.S. OF

248

The town, which is about three-quarters of a mile long, is built on the water-shed in the … There are small arcades especially devoted to the sale of tobacco, others which are filled

250

The chief trade of Nablus is in wool, cotton, olive oil, and soap of excellent quality. There … arched at intervals and built over in many places, till we reach a passage which leads us out of … figs, apricots, pomegranates, mulberries, walnuts, grapes, and almonds follow each other in due

251

from this scene, we climb to the head of the glen above the gardens, where there is a … Protestant mission, and several large new dwelling-houses, showing signs of local prosperity

253

in every district of Palestine with the exception of … MOSLEM SANCTUARY ABOVE THE REPUTED TOMB OF ST. JOHN, SAMARIA.

254

lighted by a circular aperture in the vaulted roof, as is also the north-east transept through … very ancient copies of the Samaritan Pentateuch, one of which is said to have been written … Selameh al Kohen, the correspondent of Baron de Sacy, was the chief priest of the

255

Samaritans when we visited Nablus in 1856. He was then a fine old man of seventy-three

256

the circumstances. He soon afterwards married, with the consent and approval of his first … During the feast of unleavened bread, from the 14th to the 21st of the first month

257

wooden trellis is placed over the top and covered with damp turf to keep in all the heat. … reciting and chanting by the light of the full moon until midnight, when the sleepers are … page 249), we follow the course of a mill stream which runs towards the west through … the name of Sebaste. The cities of Omri and Herod are now represented by an Unimportant

258

was buried (see page 253). Above the village there is an artificially levelled oblong space of … ircled by columns ; the shafts of several are still standing on its western side. Perhaps … fifty and sixty columns without capitals still standing towards the western end of the southern

259

terrace (see page 255), which leads through ploughed fields to an indistinguishable mass of … From Arrabeh we journey north-east to Jenin, an important town of about three

260

THE MOSQUE OF JEN1N.

261

thousand inhabitants, beautifully situated just where the Mountains of Samaria meet the Plain

262

Dr. Robinson's arguments in favour of regarding Lejjun (the Roman Legio) as the Megiddo … KHAN EL LEJJUN (THE ROMAN LEGIO), THE SUPPOSED SITE OF MEGIDDO.

263

TAANACH FROM THE WATERS OF MEGIDDO. … r I "HE traveller from the south, whether from Nablus or Samaria, gains his first view of

264

fully tenanted chambers which are at his service in the village must beware lest he camp

265

Jezreel, a few miles beyond, 011 the southern foot of Jebel Duhy. Then the whole scene is

266

insure the perennial fertility of the valley. The site was well chosen as a royal residence, … occupies probably the site of the old Migclol, or watch-tower, are all that make up modern … from the Jordan Valley by the side of the little stream, the Nahr Jalud, where the watchman … seaward, close under Mount Carmel, and from the bold bluff which marks the face of Carmel

267

First in time is the great victory of Barak over Sisera, and the details of that struggle,

268

ten thousand footmen, mustered his little army on the flat top of Tabor, where he could

269

attack his enemy in flank, while one of the storms so frequent in that region suddenly burst … The northern extremity of the range of Jebel Fuku'a (Gilboa) is shown; the highest point is crowned by the sanctuary of Neby Mezar.

270

defeated host, the terrified horses vainly struggling in the swamp and treading down the … infantry. Forming in squares, the French soon were behind ramparts of dead men and horses, … Jordan, in which numbers perished, and the army, "countless as the sands of the sea," was … in after life he recurred to the events of that April on this plain, and bitterly exclaimed

271

We have referred to Napoleon's battle, strangely out of chronological order, from its … it was a counterpart of the one in the character … The key to the two battles we have been describing is just in front of Jezreel. That of

272

the settlement of Israel that we read of an invasion from the east or desert side. The … went as far as Gaza, they with military precaution kept their head-quarters at the mouth of the … Such a visitation remained stamped on the memories of the nation, as is seen by

273

they would contemptuously term them, had shaken the confidence of the invaders, for they … Between two rocks overshadowed by a fig-tree ; the cave itself is apparently a natural one, and has within it a never-failing spring of water,

274

travels fast in the East. Many watchers were on all the hills around, the disbanded super- … and cleansing their garments by soaking and beating them with strong bats made of wood.

275

flight, on the edge of the marshy valley, they had rushed … former a peak and the latter a mound near a passage of … A Bedouin bargaining with a seller of fruit, and a group of stonemasons at work, with their hammers characteristically in their left hands.

276

hordes. He pushed across Jordan into the wilds of Eastern Manasseh, retraced the path by … picture the whole scene. The irregular hedges of prickly pear mark the village of Shunem,

277

remained in Canaanite hands, and hither to their friends and kinsfolk the Philistines carried

278

history of Elisha. It lies full in sight of … lah, now 'Ain Helweh, in the Jordan … welcome bivouac to the man of God, … shoulder of Jebel Duhy, or Little

279

steep descent to the sacred village on its north face. The latter will be able to reconnoitre … This hill is one thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the sea, and is crowned by a dilapidated Mohammedan … prospect which suggested the line, " Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in Thy name."

280

unerring mark of the perennial fountain. It bears no trace of having ever been a walled city, … probably used also by the poorer inhabitants in our Lord's time; and very near is the ancient

282

was appalled at her own success when the prophet's figure arose from the earth. In many … Two paths will lead us from Endor across the plain to that centre of Christian interest, … long and even range of the Hauran, furrowed and ridged with a faint capping of cloud, bounds … higher than the bluffs behind Nazareth ; but its perfect symmetry of form, its isolated position

283

which render Nazareth the least desolate and forsaken of all the towns of Palestine. Itself … occasional date palms, which here reach their northern limit, are marked features in the home

284

The holy places of Nazareth are as diverse as the sects which are there represented, but … A garden-house in the foreground, with a birket, or raised pool, adjoining it ; water flows from the pool into little channels which traverse … washing troughs fed from it, is in an open place surrounded with cactus and olive trees, the

285

trooping at their heels. The open space is the rendezvous of the town, for there is no "gate of … pretended, occupies, or rather contains, the site of the house of Joseph and Mary before it … The other so-called holy places, such as Joseph's workshop, are of comparatively recent origin,

286

of pad which is fitted to the head. Doubtless it was to coins worn in this fashion that our … Before leaving Nazareth we must take a farewell view of now familiar Esdraelon from … The Roman name was Diocaesarea. The village lies on the south-west side of the hill; on the north side are the ruins of a church built by the

Galilee

287

Called by the Arabs Jebel et Tur (mountain of light or purity), the name which they also give to the Mount of Olives. … ALILEE is a name which awakens in the mind of the Christian the most sacred and

288

the plain of Gennesaret (see page 308), and of the quiet lake upon which the Master sailed,

289

to the observance of the Sab- … Like many other projects of the Herods, this city

290

cemetery, and was consequently unclean. The thought of residing there was repulsive to … the ancient Jewish laws, because many sepulchres had to be taken away in order to make … writers themselves are authority for the statement that " the university of Tiberias was … height of one thousand feet. It is full of ancient caves, some of which are over one hundred

291

several of the angles ; while the castle on the summit must, like Safed, Tabor, and Gamala,

293

the edge of the plateau a ridge is seen projecting to the west, and its entire summit is … The sculptured sarcophagus in the foreground is used as a trough for cattle.

294

them. On the shore of the lake, some distance north of Gamala, is a ruined town called

295

Hermon, the Jordan, and the Sea of Galilee were in his mind when he spoke, in the Book of … From the top of Mount Hermon one can look down upon a large part of Palestine and … But, if the view from Hermon is one of the finest in the world, there are among the … thousand feet, and reach the edge of an uneven table-land, which stretches to the south almost … husbandmen. It has a few small villages, but the most interesting point is the great khan of … Tabor, no doubt, appears most imposing when approached from the Esdraelon plain on

296

be classed with Hermon, which the Psalmist has done (lxxxix. 12), as one of the finest land- … certain points, but every step gives us a wider and wider view of the country below, and

297

I ("Wars," i. 8, 7). In Christ's time it … Jewish War came on, Josephus seems

298

against the place, " found it impracticable to ascend the heights," and obtained possession of it … Carmel by the sea" (Jeremiah xlvi. 18). The abundance of dew which falls there is also

299

About one mile south of the village of Kefr Kenna we pass a ruin called Jiftah, and near … inevitably become impossible after thirty centuries to tell in which of these he was buried. … been very costly, and this fact may be taken as an incidental illustration of the wealth … with their flocks; and now and then a passing traveller may stop, to whom some friendly … when the miracle was performed ; but the water-pots mentioned by John were of stone.

300

Vessels of earthenware are very … honour of being Cana of Galilee, … MOSQUE OF TIBERIAS (TUBARIYEH). … of Sepphoris. It is situated on the … extremely hot and unhealthy. On

301

Sepphoris, and there is no record of his

302

Several remarkable facts deserve to be mentioned in connection with these singular peaks. … If we are to credit tradition, these hills have been the scene of two other events imme-

303

of basalt extends south, and the traveller will cross it on the direct road from Tiberias to … are full of extinct craters, and … of surprise. That which took place in 1837

304

We have yet to speak of the remarkable prospect which the Horns of Hattin command.

305

THE VALLEY OF PIGEONS.

306

of the country ever since the time of Hosea. Not only have the inhabitants of the region … in arms." A battle ensued, in which they were at first victorious; but Herod himself, … character of this stronghold. Herod himself took personal direction of this important … strongly bound with iron, were let down from the edge of the mountain above, which proved … their lives rather than submit to the conqueror. A touching story is told of an old man,

307

of the inhabitants of Galilee, … and archways. This home of … on the borders of the lake and at the foot of the

308

Christendom as the home of Mary Magdalene ; and wherever the New Testament is read … the weather is favourable for boats, a white sail may occasionally be seen far out on the lake, … in Beirut, or some of the coast towns, and transported in sections to Tiberias, and there … oars, their progress is aggravatingly slow. But in Christ's time the sea was covered with

309

SEA OF GALILEE. … point, apparently in a short time, two hundred … citizens got ready a great number of vessels

310

That is a bloody sea-fight in which from four to five thousand are slaughtered on one side

Northern Galilee

311

THE PLAIN OF GENNESARET, FROM KHAN MINYEH.

312

have seized upon the patriots of Galilee, in view of the struggle before them. Yet, in spite … its strongholds. In the time of Joshua sixteen of the nineteen cities of Naphtali were

313

SEA OF GALILEE. 313

314

south under the majestic cliffs of Akhbara and just above the wild gorge of Leimon (see pages … by his brethren. At that point we strike the line of the Roman road running from the south … The high land which we have followed in coming from Khan Jubb Yusef terminates here … marsh filled with reeds and papyrus (see page 313). This is the only place about the Sea of … This was designed as an aqueduct to bring water from the fountain of Tabighah to the plain

315

shore, is seen at a glance. West of the plain of Gennesaret there is a wall of hills through … At present the only inhabited places about the Sea of Galilee are Tiberias and Mejdel … the present and the past is a painful one. The people of to-day are poor and oppressed.

316

whole East, it may be taken as an index, to a large degree, of the entire province of Galilee, … (" Wars," iii. 3, 2, 3). The Rabbis said : " The land of Naphtali is everywhere covered with

318

labour. Meadow and pasture-land were turned into tillage, because the cultivation of grain … page 328), was a famous centre for the production of oil; and at Jotapata, when that place was … raising of pheasants. Sigona furnished the best wine. Arbela (see page 307) was celebrated

319

The industries of Galilee, and likewise the activity and enterprise of its inhabitants, are … Sepphoris (see page 286), the capital of the province, three miles distant, was within sight of … on the substantial Roman roads which covered the country men travelled one hundred and

320

also be connected; at all events, in this instance both were found at the same place. … There is no sign of any harbour having been constructed here, and in stormy weather it would be difficult to effect a landing at this spot. … of the ground is such that all traces of a highway of the kind they were accustomed to

321

'Aureimeh, and some remains of ancient walls are seen.

322

rounded stones ; but below this, at a depth of four or more feet from the surface, a wall … could convert into lime. Excavations here might reveal the extent of this buried town, and … over the small adjacent plain, and by means of the trench in the cliff at Khan Minyeh to the

323

. In regard to birds … the Sea of Galilee ; while in the ruins, gorges,

324

are mentioned, and also the plains and marshes about the Sea of Galilee and Lake Huleh (see … minutes, and the path is a difficult one because of the stony nature of the ground, as already … hence would be a most unlikely place for a custom-house. It has no remains of a road or of … dislocating his wrist. He was carried into the village of Capernaum and attended by his … The view from this rough shore is a charming one. To the east is the plain of Batiheh,

325

THE CLIFFS OF WADY LEIMON.

326

the south is Wady Semakh, where is the site of Gergesa, and above that the ruins of Gamala

327

natural caverns no doubt existed in this limestone formation, a great many of these caves must … and terrified people flying from oppression or war, Christian monks, and the cave-dwellers of … of these cliffs, which form one of the wildest places in Syria. The labyrinth of passages and … character of Akhbara is like that of Leimon (see page 323), and is referred to because it is … Besides the three places now mentioned, we may refer to the Jordan Valley, where, in the … Once in the month of February, when approaching this place from the north, we were

329

CASTLE OF SAFED, … The roads were, by night, in a frightful condition, and the

330

refreshed, while our animals had been comfortably sheltered in a neighbouring khan. We have … was one of the points in

331

murdered, and their leader being flayed alive. In 1799 Napoleon stationed in the castle here … As the place comprises not only a village but a fortress, it has suffered in nearly all the … mercy ; and it was only by the combined influence of the foreign consuls of the country … or four centuries past; but this region is full of monuments which belong to a much more … but the first two of these places were in Galilee. During this period of prosperity they built

332

hour and a half and two hours north-west of Meiron. … The town of Safed appears on the hill beyond, and on the right there is a glimpse of the Sea of Galilee. During the annual festival pilgrims burn … the reputed author of the book "Zohar." It is on account of the latter that this place has

333

of an immoral character. … thick, is constructed of finely cut blocks, and some of them are of large size. There is a good

334

place of the prophet Obadiah, and also of Barak, who, at the instigation of Deborah, rallied the … But the relics and monuments of the kind we are now considering are so fragmentary that

Caesarea Philippi and the highlands of Galilee

335

between each and one on either side of the door. The arches were formerly walled up and the building was covered with a dome. … of galilee,

336

visit, but of careful study. There is, however, a feeling that this section lacks interest; … It is thought further that the character of the province and people of Galilee was such

337

Of the people of Galilee at the time referred to it may be said, in general, that their … pre-eminent in their zeal for the law of Moses, in their observance

338

The land was not wholly conquered, and some of the original inhabitants were allowed to … to identify several of the places mentioned. The Talmud defines Upper Galilee as the

339

could justly claim the highest antiquity. Isaiah speaks of Tyre as the "daughter of Zidon "

340

in some degree the people of the hill country only a few miles away. Flax for its looms,

341

been the metropolis of the … of historical interest connected with the place, mention should … TRIBUTARY OF THE JORDAN.

342

Assyrian kings were among the commonest events of that early period and time, and again … over Jordan into the land of Canaan," to appoint six cities of refuge, " that the slayer may … the way. This fact is alluded to in Hosea vi., where the high-road between Shechem in the … west, and have always been impressed with the beauty of its situation (see page 334). Directly

343

on the brow of the mountain west of Lake Hiileh is a long, narrow plain, remarkably fertile, … Lake, At the foot of the hill is the copious fountain which supplied the town, and about it

344

common in ancient times, and their absence be clue to the fact that they have been broken … here on which the ornamentation was better … cophagi and the tombs in various parts

345

Most of the ruins which … of the place ; nor would it be … of Safed (see page 328) and four miles from the upper … REMAINS OF ROMAN AQUEDUCT AT BANIAS (CJESAREA PHILIPPI).

346

sons the cultivated fields will be carpeted with green and the rest of the earth with flowers, … A short distance before reaching Hunin the road passes over the summit of a hill which … surface, which otherwise would be an unbroken mass of green. Into this dense jungle of canes

347

convenience of those who occupy them. Such dwellings are, of course, in constant danger of … the markets in different parts of the country ; while the papyrus, if it were in the days of the … distance is not great, and we soon pass, among the foot-hills, the village of Abil, which some … cut a channel which at some points is nearly two hundred feet deep, and along its bed the river … is reached by a comparatively easy path. Here we find ourselves on a site of great antiquity,

348

THE MOST EASTERLY SOURCE OF THE JORDAN, BANIAS (CESAREA PHILIPPI).

349

well adapted to the needs of their race for a commercial and religious centre. About it is a

350

(see page 341). Its course, however, as it goes to join the latter, can scarcely be traced, on … settled, and one that enjoyed great prosperity. In fact, it appears to have been well known … With regard to the report of these spies, who said, " We have seen the land and behold it … exaggerated nor conveyed false impressions. The Hebrew words translated "a large land"

351

abounding moreover in springs," where, he states further, was " the temple of the Golden Calf." … BOWERS ON THE HOUSETOPS AT BANIAS (CyESAREA PHILIPPI). … and at the same time to illustrate and confirm what in the lapse of ages has become an

352

of running brooks. Travellers who have made a tedious journey of weeks over the mountains … water, the broken pavement, and the scattered boulders are. soon left behind, and the groves of

353

at the time when they were written, which was probably later than the time of the Herods.

354

girl at the time of his death. … been a favourite one in that period, for we find

355

THE CITADEL OF THE CASTLE OF SUBEIBEH.

356

was ten times as high in price at Csesarea Philippi as it was at Gischala, John had a large … and also that he had authority from the governor of Galilee, which was directly contrary to … do men say that I the Son of man am?" (Matt, xvi.) The majority of those who have

357

prevail against it." This city, famous for the visits and works of kings, emperors, and … A little more than one hour from Banias is the great castle of Subeibeh (see page 354). … and greater means of resistance. … where we crawled by a difficult passage, we found a stone ball such as were in common use in

358

These weapons corresponded to the heavy artillery of our times, and their destructive power

Mount Hermon and its temples

359

MOSLEM GRAVES UNDER "THE OAKS OF BASHAN," … TT was not without reason that Moses referred to the hill country of western Palestine, and … sublime and ancient mountains. Nor was it altogether in imagination that some of the Jewish

360

dawn " (Job iii. 9) opening upon " fair Damascus " is a sight of beauty which belongs to the … Even the Romans looked with admiration upon these mountains, their landmarks as in … called Buka'a, which is a survival of the ancient Hebrew name Bikath, or valley. Here we … Far m the north rises the noble and majestic Hermon, one of the grandest objects on the

361

RUINS IN B AS HAN 361 … It is not always, however, that a saint whose grave is honoured has the luxury of a stately tree

362

THE NAHR LEDDAN, AN AFFLUENT OF THE JORDAN. … with bits of rags and threads that … stands, and is one of the oldest in … Here the bones of this saint were … when viewed as monuments of the

363

miles, the only tree will be one of these venerable relics connected in some way with the … This place, as its name implies, is famous for its potter's clay. Its furnaces are dome-shaped and capable of burning enormous jars. The potter, … outlet, and hence it was supposed that its waters, by some underground passage, reached the

364

further from the fact that it occupies the mouth of an extinct crater, and its surface is not far … romantic and wild. Above us, too, rise the bold cliffs and barren sides of Hermon.

365

ones are within the means of the poorest person. Four small water-coolers can be bought … Wady Shib'a, the gorge just referred to, is one of the grandest about Jebel esh Sheikh.

366

gigantic piles of limestone are full of great seams … the surface moisture is dried up. In Deut. viii. 7 … of Shib'a.

367

labourers in the hot harvest-field sometimes enjoyed the luxury of water cooled from these … With regard to these internal caverns, we will refer to one not far from Jebel Sunnin, in … the Lebanon, which, from our own estimate, is not less than six hundred feet in depth. It is a

368

President of the Syrian Protestant College in Beirut, to a distance of nearly a mile ; and the … trees about the palace, and men and women everywhere engaged in the struggle for existence, … British fleet to St. George's Bay, nominally carried on by the Druses but secretly instigated by

369

SOURCE OF THE JORDAN.

370

A ride of from two to three hours west of Hasbeiya will bring the traveller to the Litany, … scenery of the river at once strik- … The town is two thousand two hundred feet above the sea-level, on the west side of an amphitheatre of … them one would not suspect the existence of such a chasm opening

371

the river below. From the edge of this precipice the stream appears like a mass of foam ; … of the Litany one must descend six hundred feet between its chasm-walls to the famous natural

372

It is formed of a number of fallen rocks, which have left a passage of about one hundred … to Jezzin and other places in the … hours, although the distance in a

373

GORGE OF THE LITANY.

374

it is likewise the main route to Damascus, of those on the north of Jebel esh Sheikh. None … A few years since a strange innovation was made upon the primitive methods of inter- … of portions of the grandest Lebanon scenery, but at certain points is so high that sometimes … or disposed to pay the tax which the company require for the use of theirs. The contrast … upon uplands and mountain ranges. The eastern face of Lebanon is in sight, and in the south

375

REMAINS OF TEMPLES. … esh Sheikh means " Mountain of the aged " or "of the white-headed." It is also called Jebel eth Thelj, the " Snow mountain."

376

are found in all situations— ; … feelings of reverence cannot now be … possess. It has been found that in … than three hours south-east of

377

REMAINS OF TEMPLES. … only thirty minutes from Rasheiya, while the last is just south of the carriage-road to Damascus. … now in a very ruined state, but it is thought that one of them may have been used in the … portion of Syria where temples are to be found. There are a few in the Lebanon as

378

ancient Rabbath of the children of Amnion), and at Gerash (the ancient Ramoth Gilead) vie … hours ; but now, on the fine French road, which is not far away, and which we reach at a … over barren ridges and across some small and exceedingly desolate upland plains before it

379

REMAINS OF TEMPLES. … It stands on a platform of massive masonry, one hundred and twenty-six feet long by sixty-nine feet wide, and about twenty feet high on the … and strange that they compel us to look upon the place with feelings of wonder and reverence.

Damascus

381

By the new French road through the Merj, or meadow, west of the city. The large building on the right, with its many domes and two slender … twelve thousand Christians, and five thousand Jews. It was formerly the capital of all Syria,

382

(from 4 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.), over the splendid macadamised road of seventy miles, which was … The Orientals call Damascus a terrestrial reflection of Paradise, " The Pearl of the East," … marked by a small building called " Kubbet en Nusr," which is said to contain the grave of … declares, " There may be other views in the world more beautiful ; there can hardly be another

383

steel engraving, in which the course of the rivers may be traced … The plain of Damascus, which em-

384

called El Ghutah. How old this name is cannot be determined, but we find it in the Jerusalem … and now by his widow; it is close by the station of the French diligence. It was built by a … cafes are numerous in the city and its suburbs, and especially on the road which approaches … * The following pages (to page 410), describing the cafes and principal buildings and bazaars of Damascus, are contributed by Miss M. E.

385

A MUEDDIN CHANTING THE CALL TO PRAYER FROM A GALLERY OF THE MINARET OF 'ISA (JESUS).

386

see one near the Shoemakers' Bazaar, on page 398, and another more important one opposite … Outside the north-eastern (the Christian) quarter of Damascus, on the north-east road, … favourite beverage is reiki, or raisin brandy. Here, too, there are some large gardens, where … taxed, but a large revenue is derived from the sale of myrtle branches, with which mourners in … There is an extensive and picturesque Muslim cemetery outside the eastern walls of the … on the south-east side of the city, and beyond them there are some very ancient Jewish graves. … The largest and most ancient mosque in Damascus is the Jami'a el Amwy, " The Great … the Arab historian, states that the Kinyah, or surname, of the founder of the Omeiyades dynasty

387

was " Ibn Amwy" (the son of the little slave-girl). This mosque (to which strangers are … others of less intrinsic value, which included probably some at least of the beautiful glass

388

shaped, slightly tapering, arched vaulting. In the centre four massive piers of solid masonry, … to contain the head of John … natives of Damascus may some-

389

of the north-western quarter of the city, yet a very good though distant view of it is obtained

390

same time endowed an institution for the support of two sets of mueddins to chant the call to … which supports a glittering crescent. This minaret may be distinguished in the view on page

391

extremity, in the draper's bazaar, there still stands a portion of a splendid archway. The … Muslims seem to be aware of its existence, and fewer still of its significance.

392

THE MOSQUE OF SABUNIYEH, DAMASCUS, … It is highly probable that the Roman temple was erected on … of the mosque, at the … the death of Saladin ; his body was at first enshrined

393

great general, who was an equally energetic antagonist of the Crusaders, and whose

394

mausoleum several times. It is carefully constructed of polished red sandstone. Its … spacious and lofty domed chamber is paved with marble, and in the centre there are two low

395

gabled tombs side by side on a slightly raised marble platform. The mihrab niche on the … After their dismissal the schoolmaster not only kindly allowed me to make, a sketch of the … Not far from this mosque, which is in the south-western district, stands the Sinaniyeh … leads from the straggling peasant suburb called El Meidan, is pre-eminently the bazaar of the

396

At the western side of the Great Mosque, as seen from a … On emerging from this bazaar at the north end, we hasten onwards to an open space

397

where many ways meet, not far from the extreme west end of the street called Straight, the … west. It occupies the north-west angle of the ancient boundary of the city, and is surrounded … make a tracing of it. (I was at the time residing with my brother, Mr. E. T. Rogers, who … however, uniform in size. Two of the towers are shown on page 400, and from these some idea

398

BRIDGE IN THE SHOEMAKERS' BAZAAR, DAMASCUS.

399

comparatively small portion of it is … left to tell of its former internal … neath the roof of one of the towers … 1 . . 11 i The upper stories and projecting windows are constructed of poplar stems, filled in

400

A large oblong structure surrounded by a moat. There are twelve projecting towers, two of which are shown above. In the foreground there is

401

again, with the exception of a few which were carried off by the workmen. One of these

402

gourds, calabashes, broken pots, or metal bowls in their hands. Behind the cauldron stood two … pauses at regular intervals. This cry has been transmitted from one generation of mourners to

403

MOSQUE OF THE TEKIYEH, OR HOSPICE OF THE SULTAN SELIM.

404

principal court of the house, which varies in size from fifty to even a hundred and fifty feet … MAKBARET BAB ES SAGHIR (BURIAL-GROUND OF THE LITTLE GATE). … stands in the centre of the court, and there are two or four additional fountains if the court be

405

The walls of a superior house, up to the height of about twenty feet, are built in alternate

406

in with sun-dried bricks placed diagonally (as indicated in the little rudely built unfinished … a cabinet with little drawers for valuables. A few of the stalls which are occupied by dealers

407

in jewellery are simply provided with cabinets, on the top of which the treasures may be … It is nearly forty feet in circumference. A peasant and his plough are resting against it, and in its shade a carpenter is working, steadying his … invited to mount on to the platform, and then it is that the treasures are turned out of the

408

and a variety of hard stones set, ready to be engraved, as signet rings. Other drawers … When I first passed through one of these narrow doorways and found myself within … he had just completed for a customer. It was formed of seven filigree discs set with pearls, … It will be remembered that it is from the roof of the silversmiths' bazaar that the … Another bazaar which interested me especially was that of the booksellers and bookbinders, … Muslims. However, with my brother's consent, I went there one day attended only by one of

409

It is approached by a broad flight of steps descending from the bazaar of the silk and linen … of whom were bookbinders. I soon got into interesting conversation with an occupant of one … was careful not to touch anything that he did not himself place in my hand. He handed me one … Beirut. A few years ago there were only two native Christian booksellers in the city ; but

410

by the angry barking of the bazaar … variably heard the pleasant words,

411

sengers in all sorts of costume and colour— … way : they sit cross-legged on the floor or on … An ancient Roman portal with three arches. The central and southern ones are now built up ; the northern arch, now in use, is concealed by

412

they take off their shoes in the mosque and keep on their fez or turban ; they are dressed in … In the Horse Market (see page 405) the purchaser can suit his taste both as to style and

413

tassels, and bits of gaily- … shoes are of one piece, with … a calk. Three nails on each … be praised in any other

414

in this manner is welcome and refreshing to a person who is worn down by the long- … method of making and baking the bread, which is sold in shops, on stands in the streets (see … numerous, and they possess a kind of stock-exchange, where they meet for the transaction … the Damascus barber has with his regular business an associated branch, namely, that of … be found to be genial and pleasant, and inspired by a desire to entertain his guests in the … Damascus is, as we have previously stated, one of the oldest cities in the world. Josephus

415

v. 8—14). The memory of Naaman is perpetuated on the banks of the Abana in a leper … at the same time secured for the Lebanon district, to the great advantage of the people. Thus

416

profoundest of theologians, who still inspires and directs the

417

In the city itself, the house of Ananias and the house of Judas are still shown. … Damascus has undergone, it is, of course, impossible to rely on these traditions ; but there

418

In the Suk es Sinaniyeh, which is the great emporium for all the requirements of … themselves in the presence of a … In no point is this imitation

419

pitallers and the Templars. The character of these orders underwent a decisive change during … Notwithstanding his striking resemblance to the national genius of the Arabs, he was no

420

several jerks, first rising to its knees, then the full length of its hind-legs, which are longer

421

dashing horse. The Bible mentions the camel only incidentally, though in a way that implies … like a large sheet of fine white calico, and in this she envelopes herself completely.

422

Mohammedan worship is very simple, and resembles that of the Jewish synagogue. It … who perform their devotions either alone or in groups with covered heads and bare feet. In … There are five stated seasons for prayer—at daybreak, near noon, in the afternoon, a … ashamed to perform his devotion in public -whether at home, or in the mosque, or in the … excitements of the dancing and howling dervishes, who equal the ascetic excesses of the … The Koran is the Bible of the Mohammedans. It is unquestionably one of the great … day the devotions, and regulates the private and public life, of more than a hundred millions

423

of human beings. It has many passages of poetic beauty, religious fervour, and wise counsel, … which sometimes crawls in the dust, and is sometimes lost in the clouds." Reiske denounces … admiration, and finally forces us into veneration." He finds the kernel of Islam in the second

424

Thomas Carlyle calls the Koran " the confused ferment of a great, rude human soul ; … guidance of the fifth part of the whole kindred of mankind. Above all, it has been a religion

425

stupidity ; in short, nothing but a sense of duty could carry any European through the Koran. … ence of national and religious taste ! … In the Wady el Kubur. The largest one, on the right, is eighty feet high.

426

E. H. Palmer, the most recent translator of the Koran (1880), says that the claim of the … exercised upon the Arab mind, by the fact that " it consists not merely of the enthusiastic … the time of Christ back to the days of Abraham. The arrival and departure of immense … a long journey by sea. The special danger in crossing the desert arises from the Bedouins, … W hile the modern yearly caravan to Mecca probably does not rival in numbers or

427

head of Syria " (Isaiah vii. 8), yet one of the finest and most remarkable sights in the East is … Showing the syenite columns of the Tetrapylon ; the prostrate one is … many of the animals die, and the pilgrims … in trade as well, they carry with them many rich articles, and bring back, on their return,

428

The government at Constantinople is supposed to bear the expense of the yearly present

Palmyra

429

WESTERN SIDE OF THE RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, PALMYRA. … Palestine has= its season of arid, dreary desolation, and its season of freshness and

430

over the surrounding" country since the days of Abraham, are at that season on their good … carrying water in flasks for drinking purposes, resting half an hour at sunset, then riding … After riding eleven hours the second day, we find the ranges of hills which border

431

Entering the great court through what remains of the doorway, we see whole rows of

432

This building, a peripteros standing on a raised platform, is one hundred and thirty-four … This exquisitely sculptured portal is thirty-three feet high by fifteen feet wide, and on the … columns standing, its elegant entablature fading away in airy perspective for a distance of four … is adorned with an excess of sculptured decoration, more Oriental than Grecian in its

The use of cow's milk, water and carbohydrate mixtures represents the one system of

433

fall. The wonder in these ancient ruins is, not that so much has fallen, but that anything … A fine Corinthian column, erected as a monument to Alilamos, in the year 450 (a.d. 138),

434

as the Wall of Justinian (see page 427). It runs in a zigzag line from near the mouth of the … It is about three hundred yards from the north-western corner of the Temple of the Sun, and formed the triple entrance to the Great Colonnade,

436

Outside of the northern wall is a cemetery containing several tower-like tombs, and a vast

437

The village is situated in a little basin formed by a bend of the river, and is entirely shut in by high ledges of rock. The soil is everywh

438

Balkis, a descendant of Yarab Ibn Kahtan of Yamen, and that Solomon married her. This … the importance of the site and made it the key of the East. It is now resorted to in the summer

439

an object of the deepest interest. The attention of archaeologists is just beginning to be turned … " And Solomon went to Hamath-zobah, and prevailed against it. And he built Tadmor in the wilderness, and all the store cities, which he

440

Solomon, the key of Persia and India, the city of palaces, the home of Zenobia, the school of … This fountain issues from a cavern with two openings, over one of which there … mm }f the sublime Longinus, built in remote antiquity,

441

of Palm-trees." Ancient writers describe it as a city of merchants, and proverbial for its

442

ruins of the city there is not a wall or stone which can be identified as belonging to the era of … philosopher Longinus, who was not only her counsellor in matters of state, but her teacher in

443

immense booty, leaving a garrison of six hundred archers, and leading in triumph his royal … insult and humiliation of Zenobia. Never did Rome witness a more gorgeous pageant.

444

presented by grateful cities, long trains of captive Goths, Vandals, Sarmatians, Franks, … Lebanon via the Wady Barada. The perfume of fruit blossoms and spring wild flowers filled … Our travelling party now turn northward, down the barren chalky rocks into the valley of … ride along its banks, but the volume of water is great and unfailing. Along the river on both

445

Here the gorge intersects the central ridge of Anti-Lebanon ; but as it makes … the ravine is so narrow that passage on its banks … Following up the river on a path hardly wide

446

regarded by the people as the source of the Barada. The fountain bursts forth from a small … Leaving 'Ain el Fijeh, we passed Deir Mukurrin and Kefr ez Zeit ("Village of Oil"), and

447

THE CLIFFS OF SUK WADY, BARADA.

448

ROAD AND TABLETS CUT IN THE CLIEFS OF WADY BARADA. … of stone. The Latin inscriptions,

449

force of the river, the moun- … Near it are the ruins of a … in a vault under the eastern … tist began preaching " in the

450

fifteenth year of the reign of Tiberius Caesar, . . . . Lysanias being the tetrarch of Abilene." … head or source of the Barada is at the south-west end of this plain, in a small lake nine

451

the dignity of the person buried. A great tomb indicates a great man. In the Sha'ara … portion of an ancient aqueduct. … all parts of Syria, who make vows at the

452

shrine and bring presents to the sheikhs in charge of them. Men of every sect revere these … costly offerings. At length his servant Ali, dissatisfied with his meagre share of the revenue,

Ba'albek

453

At the south-east corner through a long vaulted passage like a railway tunnel under the great platform. Two of these great vaults run parallel … HE ride of three and a half hours the next day to Baalbek was over an undulating

454

feet were the quarries from which the great hewn stones of yonder temples were taken. In … Alexandria to New York. It was evidently intended to be placed in the northern wall, as a … The modern Syrians use the same tools and process in quarrying which were used by

456

On entering the town I observed a great change since my first visit in 1856. After the … of ancient civilisation and ancient idolatry. In 1880 the population was estimated at five … After passing through the ruins of the old wall, and riding through the street nearest the

457

anterior to the Roman era. Two of these great vaults … Temple of the Sun, and sculptured chambers on the … in darkness, the arch behind us looking like a window … UNDER THE PERISTYLE, TEMPLE OF THE

458

interlacing compartments, a most intricate and beautiful design. Some of the slabs are … of fifteen columns on each side and eight at each end, counting the corner columns both ways. … raised a huge wall directly in front of the great gate of the temple; but this wall was … The ornamentation around the portal is the most elaborate known in all the range of Corinthian

459

in relief represent both as having perfect gables and, as far as appearances are concerned, … The sanctum, or holy place for the altar, was about five feet above the main floor of … between the nave and the adytum was supported by fluted columns on each side, and on

460

east on the great quadrangular court. … In the peristyle on the south side of the Temple of the Sun, where only four connected columns remain in situ. Several shafts have fallen from

461

look at them from a distance they seem much smaller, the perfect grace and symmetry of the

462

feet, the height of the entablature, ascertained by measuring the fragments on the ground, … hypothesis than that which we have offered for the removal of the four cyclopean stones, … to south, and about four hundred from east to west. Beginning on the western side nearest

463

the peristyle, we pass through the semicircular wall, which is the principal relic of the … exedrae on the north, east, and south sides, are lavishly decorated with shell-topped niches, … wide for colossal statues, one on each side of the triple gateway leading into the hexagon,

464

GATEWAY TO THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, BA'ALBEK.

465

we find ourselves in the magnificent portico, a worthy entrance to so splendid an interior. … This portico was approached on the east side, as we have already seen, by an immense staircase … one hundred and eighty feet long by thirty-seven feet deep, having twelve columns in front, of

466

which only the pedestals remain. The columns were four feet three inches in diameter. On … castrorum," and are votive memorials in behalf of Antoninus Caracalla (son of Severus), and … run continuously from column to column, but recedes in a graceful curve almost to the wall of

467

them with advantage. On the north side of the modern village is a ruined mosque (see page … Kubbet Duris, or Dome of Duris, consisting of eight polished columns of Egyptian granite, … walls. We may spend hours in walking slowly around the cyclopean structure, no part of

468

HISTORICAL SKETCH OF

469

THE SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, BA'ALBEK.

470

is Baalath of the tribe of Dan. Baalgad also, thought by many to be Ba'albek, is supposed to

471

that we should have had coins indicating the fact. On a coin of Byblos of the time of … There are, it seems, no coins extant of. this city under the Antonines, and yet there is … evidently works of the same period. He says, " However strange it may appear that no

472

Dr. Robinson, quoting Eusebius, says, " The worship of Venus was also predominant at … declined his part, and was thrown by his fellow-actors into the reservoir of the bath, full of

473

" When the power of the state, under Constantine, began to be wielded in favour of … and Palmyra, in calling the indurated limestone marble.

474

confused the minds of many travellers with regard to the original plan of the temple area.

476

Temple, with the platform of colossal stones, as the work of Solomon. In 1174 Saleh ed Din, … tribute to the Turks, and grinding the peasantry with merciless extortion. In i860—the

Index to volume one

477

Abishua, Tomb of, 235. … Adullam, Cave of, 142, 143, 145 … Church and Monastery of St. … Facade of, 61. … Anne, Church of St., 46. … Of the Unbelievers, 116. … Caves of, 306, 307, 327. … Armenian Church of St. James, … Ascension, Church of the, 3, 4, 88, … j History of, 468, 476. … Balkis, Queen of Sheba, 438, 442. … Plain of, 312, 327, 360. … I Benjamin, hill country of, 181, … Ruins of Church at, 219. … I Ruins of Church, 89. … Birds of the Sea of Galilee, 322. … Bitumen Pits of Hasbeiya, 369. … Castle of, 141. … Caiaphas, house of, 12. … Cana of Galilee, 287, 292, 293, … i Castle of Hunin, 337, 346. … ! Cave of the Cross, 19, 21, 23. … Caverns of the Kings, 84. … Chapel of Helena, Holy Sepulchre, … Church of the Ascension, 3, 4, 88, … Cistern of Kasr el Yehud, 170. … Cities of Refuge, 342. … Convent of St. George, Wady … Costume of Women of Bethlehem, … Arch of Triumph, 391, 396. … Dome of the Treasures, 387, … door of the Great Mosque, … House of Rimmon, 392. … Present condition of, 426, 428. … Rivers of, 382.

478

Tomb of Bibars, 392. … Street of the, 40, 71. … Depth of the, 156, 157. … Destruction of Sodom and Go- … Elah, Valley of (Wady es Sunt), … Of St. Luke's Gospel, 199, 200, … Ephraim, Mountains of, 184, 228. … Fauna of the Plains of Jericho, … Field of Blood. See Aceldama. … Fishes of the Sea of Galilee, 318. … Fountain of the Cup (El Kas), 74, … French restoration of the church … Ancient commerce of, 338. … Of David (Bab Neby Daud), 10, … Of Muhammed. See Barclay's … Gates of the Inner Temple, 76, … Ruins on, 234. … Gibeah of Benjamin, 217. … Pool of, 191. … Gilboa, Mountains of, 264, 266, … Golgotha, Church of, 15. … Gorge of the Barada, 380. … i Grass on the house-tops, 300. … Grottoes of Nahr el Kelb, 367. … Haiyan, ruins of, 222. … Helena, Chapel of St., Jerusalem, … Hermit life in Palestine, 130, 146 … In Wady Beit Hanina, 203. … hunting in Galilee, 323, 324. … Hill of Evil Counsel, 73, no, 122. … Hinnom, Valley of, 2, 98, 99, 101, … Shrine of the, 17, 18. … Huleh, Lake (Waters of Merom), … Imam 'Aly, shrine of, 200. … Jehoshaphat, tomb of, 82, 97. … Church of, 199, 201. … Jericho of the Crusaders, 168, 170. … Jib, El (Gibeon of Benjamin), 182, … Jonah, Shrine of, 294, 299. … Kedron, Valley of, 2, 82, 86, 87, … Khan Et Tujjar (Khan of the … Khan of the oil merchants, 37, 71. … Kirjath of Benjamin, 199, 200. … Kolonia, Valley of, 196.

479

Tacitus on, 360. … Mar Elyas, Convent of, 122, 169. … Medallion on a Temple at Rukleh, … Merf ibn Amir. See Plain of Es- … Minerals of Syria, 369. … Moat of the Citadel, Jerusalem, 1, 5. … Monasteries in the Plain of the … Mosaics, Dome of the Rock, 58, 66. … Mount of Precipitation, 278, 282. … Muknah, Plain of, 240. … Nablus, Bazaars of, 248. … Mosques of. 245, 247, 249. … Neby Sa'in, Nazareth, 279, 281, … Olives of Bethshean, 318. … Palace of Hasbeiya, 371. … Temple of the Sun, 429. … Passes of Benjamin, 182. … Phinehas, Tomb of, 235, 238. … Tomb of Moses, 31. … Psephinus, Tower of, 6, 80. … Ramah of Benjamin (Er Ram), … Raynold of Chatillon, 302. … Rose of Sharon, 208. … Samaria (Shemeron), city of. See … Kibleh of the, 240. … Sarina, Spring of, 235. … Sepulchre of Christ, 14, 18—20,64, … Sharon, Plain of, 196. … Pools of, 77, 79, 103, 108. … Source of the Jordan, Banias, 344, … Stone of Destiny, 221. … Summer pulpit of the Haram, 49, … Tablet of Herod's Temple, 43, … Temple of Gerizim, 234, 238. … Theories respecting the site of the … Tiberias, Baths of, 291, 303. … Sea of, 288, 291, 294, 304, 308, … Tomb of Caleb, 233. … Joseph of Arimathea, ico. … Tombs, description of various kinds

480

Vale of Shechem, 239, 243, 250. … Gorge of, 446. … Wady el Hammam (Valley of Pig- … 1 Walls of Jerusalem, 6, 12, 73, 75, … Waterfall of the Upper Barada, … Well of David, 124, 134. … Wilderness of St. John, 205, 206. … Zachariah, Tomb of, 82, 98.

Annotationen

Cite this page

Feedback