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PICTURESQUE PALESTINE.

have seized upon the patriots of Galilee, in view of the struggle before them. Yet, in spite
of the gloomy prospect, they rallied in defence of the fatherland, and their efforts to drive
back the invader are among the most heroic in the annals of war.

To the ancient people of Palestine these hill-tops were sacred places, and here they
erected their altars and practised the rites of their religion.

The mountain-summits were also chosen as places of defence. If a peak, inaccessible by
nature, could be capped by a fortress with strong walls, it was thought to afford the most
secure place of refuge in times of danger. In these days the explorer or traveller is often
surprised at the extent of the remains which he finds on some of these elevated points. Of
this fact a good illustration is Kurn Surtubeh, which rises from the Jordan Valley a little
west of the Damieh ford. It is an extremely difficult task to climb to the top of this peak,
yet the summit is covered with massive ruins. How the stones were ever brought there
remains a mystery.

Galilee, the province with which we are now specially concerned, was renowned for
its strongholds. In the time of Joshua sixteen of the nineteen cities of Naphtali were
"fortified" (Josh. xix. 35); and in the time of Josephus the list of fortresses is a long one,
and some of them will be famous while the records of the Hebrew nation are preserved.

Not the least among these strongholds was the castle at Safed (see pages 328 and 329).
Of this place we have no ancient history, except that it is mentioned by Josephus, and in both
the Jerusalem and the Babylonian Talmuds; yet, from what we know of the habits of the Jews
and of the older inhabitants of the land, we can say that it is precisely such a point as would
be selected for defence. The fact that Josephus repaired its walls shows that it had been
used as a fortress from much earlier times; and indeed, beneath the masses of debris which
now cover the hill, traces of walls appear which belong to the earliest remains of the country.
The village itself is nearly two thousand eight hundred feet above the level of the
Mediterranean, and is said to be the highest in Galilee. The peak, however, on which the
castle stands rises considerably above the village, and the prospect,' except to the north, is
almost unlimited. The Horns of Hattin (see page 296), Tabor (see page 287), Mount Carmel
(see page 286), and the intermediate country lie before us in the south ; to the south-east are
the Gilead Hills and the Hauran Mountains; while to the east and north towards Damascus
stretches the great plain of Bashan.

But one of the most charming views on earth is the Sea of Galilee as beheld from
this ancient castle. It appears to be at our very feet, although it is eight or ten miles
away. It lies in a deep basin fully three thousand five hundred feet below where we are
standing, and its surface is bright beneath the blue sky. Beautiful and quiet, and surrounded
by picturesque hills, it has more the appearance of a work of art than of a natural lake ; and
one ceases to wonder at the extravagant praises bestowed upon it by the ancient Hebrews,
since it was justly the pride of their land.

The city of Tiberias is also in full view, although to reach it requires a journey of six
 
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