DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.67419#0225
NEEDLEWORK IN COSTUME.
203
citizens and burgesses, the common squirrel and
lamb skins; and the peasants, cat and badger skins.
The mantles of our kings and peers, and the furred
robes of the several classes of our municipal officers,
are the remains of this once universal fashion.
Furs often formed an important part of the ran-
som of a prisoner of rank :—
“ Sir,” quoth Count Bongars, “ war’s disastrous hour
Hath cast my lot within my foeman’s power.
Name ransome as you list ; gold, silver bright,
Palfreys, or dogs, or falcons train’d to flight;
Or choose you sumptuous furs, of v air or gray;
I plight my faith the destin’d price to pay.” *
Certain German nobles who had slain a bishop
were enjoined, amongst other acts of penance, “ ut
varium, griseum, ermelinum, et pannos coloratos,
non portent.”
The skin of the wild cat was much used by the
clergy. Bishop Wolfstan preferred lambskin; say-
ing in excuse, “Crede mihi, nunquam audivi, in
ecclesia, cantari catus Dei, sed agnus Dei; ideo
calefieri agno volo.”
The monk of Chaucer had
“-his sleeves purfiled, at the hond,
With gris, and that the finest of the lond.”
It is not till about the year 1204 that there is any
specific enumeration of the royal apparel for festival
occasions. The proper officers are appointed to bring
for the king on this occasion “ a golden crown, a red
satin mantle adorned with sapphires and pearls,
a robe of the same, a tunic of white damask;
and slippers of red satin edged with goldsmith’s
* Ancassin and Nicolette.
203
citizens and burgesses, the common squirrel and
lamb skins; and the peasants, cat and badger skins.
The mantles of our kings and peers, and the furred
robes of the several classes of our municipal officers,
are the remains of this once universal fashion.
Furs often formed an important part of the ran-
som of a prisoner of rank :—
“ Sir,” quoth Count Bongars, “ war’s disastrous hour
Hath cast my lot within my foeman’s power.
Name ransome as you list ; gold, silver bright,
Palfreys, or dogs, or falcons train’d to flight;
Or choose you sumptuous furs, of v air or gray;
I plight my faith the destin’d price to pay.” *
Certain German nobles who had slain a bishop
were enjoined, amongst other acts of penance, “ ut
varium, griseum, ermelinum, et pannos coloratos,
non portent.”
The skin of the wild cat was much used by the
clergy. Bishop Wolfstan preferred lambskin; say-
ing in excuse, “Crede mihi, nunquam audivi, in
ecclesia, cantari catus Dei, sed agnus Dei; ideo
calefieri agno volo.”
The monk of Chaucer had
“-his sleeves purfiled, at the hond,
With gris, and that the finest of the lond.”
It is not till about the year 1204 that there is any
specific enumeration of the royal apparel for festival
occasions. The proper officers are appointed to bring
for the king on this occasion “ a golden crown, a red
satin mantle adorned with sapphires and pearls,
a robe of the same, a tunic of white damask;
and slippers of red satin edged with goldsmith’s
* Ancassin and Nicolette.