Wilton, Mary Margaret Stanley Egerton: The Book of costume or, Annals of fashion: from the earliest period to the present time (London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, 1847)

158

THE TOILETTE IN ENGLAND.

hoops, and half-a-dozen squeezed plaits of linen, to
which dangled behind two unmeaning pendants, called
lappets, not half covering their straight-drawn hair.”
To this description we may add small caps, some of
which scarcely covered the top of the head, while
others, frilled and puffed in small plaits, lay upon the
forehead.
The hoop now underwent many important changes ;


sometimes it projected at the sides only, or, like its
ancestor the fardingale, it spread itself all round in
imposing majesty, covered with a short jupe, deprived
of its flowing train.
The high-heeled shoes remained. Tight sleeves with
full ruffles; small-pointed waists enclosed in whale-
bone j loose gowns called sacques ; and cloaks with
hoods named cardinals, were now la grande mode.