Wordsworth, Christopher: Athens and Attica: journal of a residence (London, 1837)

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Wordsworth, Christopher
Athens and Attica: journal of a residence — London, 1837

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Titelblatt

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FELLOW OF TRINITY COLLEGE, AND iilTE PUBLIC ORATOR IN THE

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PRINTED AT THE PITT PRESS.

Widmung

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HIS MAJESTY THE KING OP PRUSSIA

Advertisement to the second edition

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TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Preface

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The following pages are part of a Journal of … est than any other. The present volume commences … he has been induced to adopt the system of or-

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intimately connected with the ancient language; while … therefore represented those words not according to the

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At the desire of the Publisher, he has annexed a … Beaufort, R.N. Hydrographer to the Admiralty,

Directions for placing the plates

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DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

Contents

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Hesiod and the Euripus … Objects and results of the bridge … Ancient site of Oropus, not at Oropd, but on the Sea

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Barthelemy's Voyage—his description of the route from Athens to … The larger, dedicated to Nemesis … Comparison between that and the present state of Rome

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Mount St George. View of Athens. Outline, and limits of the … And in Public Edifices—the Pnyx - - - - 64 … Influence exerted upon Athenian eloquence, by the local peculiarities … Considerations from the Size of the Pnyx - - - 70 … Athens. The Areopagus. … Congruity of his sermon with the place where it was preached - 77

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Both encamped on the Areopagus ------ 79 … /Eschylus defends the Areopagus by this identification of it with … Grottoes in the rock of the Acropolis. Grotto of Pan - - 82 … Subterranean ascent from it into the Erectheum - - 89 … Size of the Theatre ....... 93 … Position of, and view from, the Theatre - - 95 … Plato on the local influence of Athenian public buildings - 100

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Recent discovery of the Temple of Victory - - - 111 … Supposed restoration and opening of the Propylaea - - 115 … sequent illustration of Euripides. Erectheus and the Bacchic - 118 … View from the Parthenon .... 122 … The three Minervas of the Acropolis - - - - - 124 … the Peplos; Aristophanes. Orestes a suppliant here; jEschylus'

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The Eastern, the Temple of Polias; the Western, that of Pandrosus. … Four objects, (1) the "Ancient Statue" in the Temple of Polias. … Character, religious, moral and political of the Erectheum - 136 … Inscriptions in the Acropolis ..... 140 … quent inference on the result of Demosthenes' Oration against … Description of the Theseum . - * - - 150 … Tomer of the Winds. Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. Street

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The Stadium, the dramatic Time-piece at Athens; why. Illustra- … General remark on the topographical fastidiousness of Attic poets 162 … Athens. Plan of the City. … Buildings politically and locally connected with the Pnyx - 167 … The Eponymi. Temple of Mars ----- 170 … Pompeium. Dipylum near the Pompeium - 171

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Subsequently the old Agora merged in the new and inner Cera- … Poecile in the Old Agora - ... 179 … The Long Walh of Athens. … Route along the Walls * . … Grotto of the Nymphs at Mount Hymetlus. … Inscriptions there in the rock … Language of the Inscriptions

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The Inscription* are metrical … State of the country … If the traces of the letters permitted, I should have preferred

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Speech of Bishop of Athens near the Temple of Theseus. Con- … Embarrassments arising from present state of the country - 259 … "The Straits"...... … Solitary state of the Bay of Salamis ...

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Other Temple at north-east of the island - - - - 268

Chapter I

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Walls which link the Peirasus to the City; Docks erected … Hesiod might have spared the only voyage which

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cated to the Muses of his native Helicon; and he … jecture. But the corrupt word is probably nothing else than ETA … ------The Delicm cliffs,

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locked the door of Athenian commerce, and kept … horses. They enquire of us, when the long-expected … Hellenes, and no longer the slaves of Turkey.

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Beneath the platane fair, whence gushed the shining stream. … We enquire of these peasants the name of the

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this formation it results that the monuments here of … This is illustrated by the character of the place … To return from what might be, to what is. The

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<tt6 niKpo fiadv (The Great Mountain, at the Small … now referred in the language of the country to that … The unruffled pinion of the Euboie shore.

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smaller harbour, (err6 fwcpo (3a6v), as is the case with … of pottery. I pick up here the handle of a lamp … our present position, and to consider the name of … form, and is the same word as the Latin Vallis: So Aulon in Epirus has

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We meet a shepherd of the country in our de- … Our road lies along the bare arable plain parallel … ten milep distance from 'Egripo is the village of Dra- … some in the shape of decorated or inscribed marbles … evidence that it occupies, as has been supposed, the … peninsula to be the site of Aulis.

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to the site which Delium occupied another village has … placed the Athenians just on the Oropian frontier, (fxakurra kit toU

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probably the reason why it was1 seized and fortified … not close to the sea, but it no doubt possessed build- … Tetxos (ev AtjA-iw) evoiKoSofjLijirdfxevoty fueWovtri tpdeipeiv. The Athe-

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5giillies channelled in the soil by the autumnal rain … whom the enemy convinced too late of their unhappy … ipeiyovcrw dwodaveiv. Mtiller (Orchomenos, p. 491.) for the corrupt

Chapter II

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From Oropus to Tanagra are 130 stadia. The road lies through … Descend into a small plain. The Asopus is seen turning L.

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pines. But the latter part of his description could … which induced the ancient Topographer to loiter longer … Tanagra. The mulberries (crvKafxivoi) which once grew

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of these Albanian families. The braided hair of these … With parted hair veiling the snowy necTc.

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form, neither abrupt nor high. It rises from the north … The vestiges of Tanagra are not so considerable … masonry, and a gate of the city on the southern side

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length, and made of a single stone. The circuit of … be what they are. In the degradation to which it … At the N.W. corner of the citadel, the outline

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Theatre. It is scooped out in the slope on which the … For deeply do they love the clear

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'Elate is the western, and Mount Nozia, the ancient … of an ancient city in the way from Tanagra to Thebes,

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is very characteristic, that the idea which the inha- … in the walls of another church. That church stands … Leake, and published by him in the Museum Criticum, II. 570,

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The inscription, it may be remarked, is also of

Chapter III

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take place in the neighbourhood of that Attic borough.

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cannot be persuaded to expose himself to the dangers … declines the invitation. He informs the wife of the … The modern cottages are built round a low hill. … In the church of S. George on a marble sun-dial is

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tions are all that survives of the literature of a city, … 1 jWoo-ToXa irXoia (see Plato Epist. VII.) The airoo-roXai were su-

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probably erected to command the harbour. The con- … plied security for maintaining it. But the site of the … 1 Hence I would propose to reconcile the discrepancies in the estimate … 1. 34, places it on the coast.

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Tpaxets i" Tats o/it\iais. On comparing this character with the very … the best MS. has vtto ri)v olKtav.

Chapter IV

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The Abbe Barthelemy, whose Voyage du Jeune

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been fixed, by aid of inscriptions found on the spot, … 'Qpwwi> to Apiplxaia—the last word should be written A/Mptapdta.

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by 'geographers, out of the fertile nursery-garden of … the distance of Athens to Oropus, by telling his readers … * In the passage of Herodotus, for A4>IANA2 the Sancroft MS. has

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Athens are known, we are now enabled to assign the … We do not now proceed further in the direct … for 'Arp1.Sva.T09 before the edition of Valesius. … 7 Plutarch. Sympos. i. qu. x. Whence the peculiar propriety of the … covered at Aphidna? to the Tyndaridse by Decelus (f. dcitcm) of

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a south-easterly direction. The route lies over a … trees. We must, I suppose, console ourselves for the … At Gliathi, a little to the right of the road, are … Barnaba and Parnes (Ildpvrida accus.) on the one hand, and Tirlos or … 3 The dimensions are: Tower 24 ft. square: greatest height about

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stones. It had one entrance looking to the west: this … at the verge of this broad mountain area. It begins

Chapter V

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taken up our quarters, we passed the night. … the middle of the wall, on the ground, a fire is

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strewed, which in the day-time serve for saddles, and … tied with leathern thongs over the instep. About him … which the silk (uera^i) is soon to be unwound, ahd

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floor, at the more distant end of the apartment. The … The time and place, the group and the glim- … (Ko/uapia). In an hour and a half we arrive at the

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ridge which runs eastward to the sea; on each side of … confusion. The outlines of two edifices standing nearly … sacred enclosure. The western of these temples, to

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As the modern towns of Italy have now their … is broken off, the rest is much corroded by the damp … 1 The supplementary or conjectural portion in this and following

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*H<MCMA THE … That is, adopting the proposed additions, … A decree of the Senate and people of Rhamnus: Herodes … 2 Compare Boeck Corp- Ins. n. 995. On this Polydeuces the Tpotpifios … the observation of Boeck n. 995.

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This inscription records the dedication by He- … as contemporaneous temples for worship, but that the … demolition. The earlier temple at Rhamnus is sup- … 2 The singular story of the Parian origin and Persian transport of

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to the Bhamnusian Nemesis. This statue was, perhaps, … ties of Attica, published by the Society of Dilettanti, p. 42.

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belonging to an era antecedent to the battle of Mara-

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we are naturally attracted to the close of the Pelo- … leagued with a Persian ally'. The Temple of Nemesis … I am inclined to think, suffered then from the exer-

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feet in height: the part of the town which borders … Greece, and given himself to the delineation of Greek … Antipho the Rhamnusian would have been in his place

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appearing at the verge of this glen and descending

Chapter VI

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Miltiades! from thy sword the East did flee; … reach the plain of Marathon. It is a still afternoon, … tree, and there are some low pines by the sea-shore;

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In this level solitary place the eye is naturally … together under such a tomb in the place on which … the greatest slaughter of the Persians took place2. … tion the marshes of Marathon.

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with a place in the Athenian pictures of the battle of

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The ancient topography of the plain has been … villages; on its left, rather higher up, is the modern … 3 From its size and copiousness considered as a prodigy by the … * Strabo vin. p. 377. Hercules was the hero of Marathon. The … " The term Ko/>u6os (from icopm a crest) is preserved in the Latin

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above it, part of Staurokoraki, which on the spot I … 2 Which is the mountain of IIapai\eu>s: opos en ™ MapaBuivt?

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It is the first of the four mentioned by Strabo in … might be drawn from the arrangement of the Demi … The husband of our Albanian hostess at Zephiri, … 5 Probalinthus is a <5i//ios of the Pandionis <pv\q: in which were

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telicus by the usual road from Marathon to Athens. … at the village of Epikerata, in about an hour, from … Nicon the Son of Teon, of Gargettus. … These are the only villages on the road. After

Chapter VII

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This Athens is the antique town of Theseus.

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This being the actual state of the place, how- … Since our first arrival here on the thirteenth of

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jEgean; and we are now at Athens for the second … of Athens which was once the inner Ceramicus: our … from the private libraries of the modern /ulstoikoi of … the Ancient Topography of Athens1. That I now

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on the

Chapter VIII

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They climb the ample hill which looking down … looks as if the surface of the country had once

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rock, while the rest were permitted to subside away … to the citadel itself. Concerning the actual site of

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with the exception of that of Lycabettus. This we … remarkable hill as the present, and one immediately … Now of all the other earlier names of Attic moun- … George and Lycabettus are the same. … Formerly the Acropolis stretclied to the Eridanus and the Ilissus,

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they must be, as it were, the poles of the place … One proof more may be added. The Clouds, in … as irritated by the discourteous reception which they … To the summit of Parnes, swelling with rage, and have vanish'd

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their first object in their way thither. The first, … But it is alleged that the hill of St George is … We requested him to point out the site of this in- … s I am indebted to Col. Leake for a subsequent confirmation of the

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that the same mountain is not the Lycabettus of … with Ischomachus, which was carried on in the por- … soil; and in another dialogue, conducted beneath the … Athens, seems to indicate this. The word OPOC

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no doubt determined the range of pasture allowed

Chapter IX

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Here Earth supplies the primal elements. … in this respect was the same. In these buildings this

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Even in the open air, to cover the head, was left … I might not be the only foreigner in my garb among you. Cp. Valck. … yijs...like the bones of an emaciated body, the soil having collapsed about

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as it were, quarried in the soil of the city itself. … ence to some of the public buildings most venerable … Might ram into the funnel of a reed … (KonutTui. Demosth. 175. 5)... The road itself is like a channel cut in a

Chapter X

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The Pnyx or Parliament of Athens. … He gladly visits that Spot which was the scene of the contests

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66 SCENERY OP THE PNYX. [cHAP. X. … 1 J. Pollux, viii. 132, well describes the Pnyx as x»/"'»1' Karc-

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In this spot it is impossible to resist the impulse … object, not even the Roman Forum, has ever paral- … constraint, he could fetch the deities from those ele- … fore have been something inexpressibly solemn in the

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Nor was it merely that the sea and the sky, … him, by which the imagination of his audience was … Visible behind him at no great distance was the … beyond it, was the Areopagus; and above all, tower- … * By Cimon. Plut. Vit. p. 202. whence I think the allusion is to

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the Parthenon as a crown. Therefore, the Athenian … there still survive to her, everlasting possessions; on the

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70 THE SIZE OF THE PNYX. [cHAP. X. … We have not yet spoken of the vast size of the … sand square yards it could accommodate with ease the … Sacred to the popular Nymphs.

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alarm the winds and storms … technical character, in which a consideration of the … where we are now, we may imagine Dicseopolis in the … 5 Which suggested the offer of the cushion to the Demus in the … * Hence the use of the word dvw for, "in the Pnyx." Demosth.

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of the Pnyx. The lustrations are performed. The … From the rocks to watch the taxes swimming in like tunny-

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the present bema is concerned, I think we should … Now the present bema looks in an inland direc-

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either the position of the bema might be altered, or … of about twenty-five yards immediately behind the

Chapter XI

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The Areopagus. … Sixteen stone steps cut in the rock, at its south- … When we had mounted to the hill of Ares,

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on a rocky hill in the open air1. … 4 Athens was emphatically a city of Gods, iroXis 6 e co». In the ani- … observed, which throws light upon the very similar expressions of Strabo

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CHAP. XI.] ON THE AREOPAGUS. 77 … by hands the Deity does not dwell. In front of him,

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the immortal Raffaelle has since done. … 3 Thus the figure of Paris in the ^5ginetan pediment was a copy

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CHAP. XI.] UNION OF THE AREOPAGUS AND THE EUMENIDES. 79 … when they besieged the Acropolis, … 6 It has been attributed to Epimenides: but a temple of the Furies

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in the very adytum of the Eumenides, says that the

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CHAP. XI.] THE AREOPAGUS AND THE EUMENIDES. 81

Chapter XII

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O'ervaulted, lov'd by birds, the haunt of Gods.

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for which Simonides1 wrote the inscription. It now … in its rocky interior, for the reception of statues and … ofydrjvai c>t« $a\t)piic£). In the conclusion of the Schol. Aristoph.

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chapel, dedicated to the Holy Apostles, with niches

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.] THE CLEPSYDBA. 85,

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86 THE CAVE OP AGRAULUS. [cHAP. XII. … was to meet in a few months, in the tower imme- … The precise position of another grotto in the

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use as proving the existence of a subterraneous com- … The expression /uv^oiSeK naicpal1 (hollowed steep) … The vaol here are the Erectheum and the Parthenon.

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arms. The partizans of Peisistratus seize the arms … as proved between the Agrauleium and the Acropolis, … The ascent effected by the Persians in this place,

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THE CAVE OF AGBAULUS. … 3 While this sheet is passing through the press a letter from Athens

Chapter XIII

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The Theatre. … To hear the Tragic Song still Fancy seems

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CHAP. XIII.] THE THEATRE DESCRIBED. 91

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A little »to the east of the cave above noticed are … as seems most probable, they clearly prove, by the … 2 The rock above the highest seat in the Theatre which has been cut

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CHAP. XIII.] SIZE OF THE THEATRE. 93 … theatre as the most magnificent existing in the world … Victory in the theatre.) >j 86£a <rov efitpavite eycvero ev fidpTwiv 'EX*

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94 SUGGESTIONS TO THE TRAGEDIANS [cHAP. XIII. … tained in the Theatre of Athens at one and the same … 2 The term Tpurp.vpioi was a general one employed to signify in round … which may be compared with the expression cited from Plato (Sympos.

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of the Ilissus not far beneath, at the beginning of … be found that most of the metaphorical expressions … ■irpoaipopas. Dicaearchus here means to say, " The city of Athens, be-

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96 SUGGESTIONS TO THE TRAGEDIANS [CHAP. XIII. … that theatre where the language they enriched was … local truth, when he says in the Theatre at Athens, … Buoyed on the wave, dost happy dwell … To Euripides again, this combination afforded the

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the sky had been open, and the air free about him, … Seest thou the abyss of sky that hangs above thee … To the dramatic Poets of Athens, not as invent-

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98 SUGGESTIONS TO THE COMIC POETS. [cHAP. XIII. … Rang'd beneath the throne of Jove, … forget the favour of Heaven and their <own conse-

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would be inexorably baffled by the resistance of the … teristic of the genius of the Athenian drama: on a … good observations on this subject with the remark that "Der Grieche

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noticed as a peculiar characteristic of the Pnyx. Here … made by large masses of persons as one of the most … the Theatre and the Pnyx, and with a special re- … 2 The Tri-rpm alluded to, are in the Theatre, the southern rocks of

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CHAP. XIII.] OF THE THEATRE AND THE PNYX. 101

Chapter XIV

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The Acropolis. … Let us ascend the Acropolis, that we may have a Panoramic … 2 There is a particular allusion to the Acropolis, and this its character as … With the Statue in the Temple.

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CHAP. XIV.] CHARACTER OP THE ACROPOLIS. 103 … AvaQtjfia to the Gods. And thus the attainment of … Eighteen hundred years ago Strabo lamented the … ' is equivalent to iv. Hence arose the corruption in the text of Dicaarchus.

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104 ASCENT TO THE ACROPOLIS. [CHAP. XIV. … scribed have diminished. The Heliodori1 and Polemons … cable to the decorated buildings of Athens. A great … 3 This nearness of the Temple of Peitho to the Theatre gave addi-

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CHAP. XIV.] ILLUSTRATION OF THE HIPPOLYTUS. 105 … Close to the rock of Pallas, looking on … 5 This association, as deol aivvaoi, in the same Temple, of Aphro- … Mon. Ined. p. 157. This union has been dissolved by the copyist in … he has corrected the last word to Phanetem. But it ought to be

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106 ILLUSTRATION OF THE HIPPOLYTUS. [CHAP. XIV. … to the divine influence of Venus and Persuasion. The … she might help to conciliate to Phsedra the foreign … built for her own passion over the monument of her … A little higher, on the right, is a spot connected

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to observe how the oldest Athenian traditions cling to … Mounting the City's speculative crest, … his acquaintance with the scene, into which later

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iEgeus 'throw himself from the rock of the Acropolis … opponents once more before us. The latter mount … which see Dobree Advers. i. p. 482.) Standing thus as she did at the

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CHAP. XIV.] ILLUSTRATION OF THE LYSISTRATA. 109 … the expressions by which their courage displays itself … all tyranny, they will wield the myrtle-braided sword, … I will wield my sword hereafter braided with the myrtle spray, … when an honorary statue, to be placed in the Agora, was granted by the

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110 ILLUSTKATION OF THE LYSISTRATA. [cHAP. XIV. … in the Prytaneum and a front-seat … in the Agora, wherever he may choose … the especial honours, (Ttfial e^aipeTot as the latter calls them,) paid

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same play. The Lysistrata of Aristophanes, in some

Chapter XV

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ATHENS----THE ACROPOLIS. … Pause here, and scan the rich and antique Athens, … which is opened by the hand of the Pope to admit … Here we stand now before the Propylsea of the

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CHAP. XV.] PROPYLjEA OF THE CITADEL. 113 … i. e. in the most lavish times.

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114 PROPYI^EA OF THE CITADEL. [cHAP. XV. … The Propylaea could hardly have been omitted here. The pediment of

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CHAP. XV.] THE PBOPYL*A. 115 … to its pristine beauty, let it rise once more in the … of red and blue, let the coffers of its soffits be again … as the present day of November—and then let the … But ye shall see ! for the opening doors 1 hear of the Propylesa,

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116 THE PARTHENON. [CHAP. XV. … and character from the same data. The mseander … in the Parthenon, see Kugler iiber die Polychromie der Griechen

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CHAP. XV.] PEDIMENTS OP THE PARTHENON. 117 … Some of the sculptured parts however, as belong- … One of the vestiges in the fabric of the Parthenon,

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spectator feel toward the old inhabitants of that … pretend to the ingenuity which has recovered a whole … convicted of error, refer the dedication of these shields

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Upon the peristyle of Minerva's fane.' … expression of the same poet, which receives similar

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120 ARCHITECTURE OF THE PARTHENON. [cHAP. XV. … With respect to the name of the Parthenon, it

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CHAP. XV.] DIVISIONS OF THE PARTHENON. 121 … no doubt that the peristyle was covered with a marble … (cnvaxoTdXaKTOi in lieu of the unintelligible words in the text. xPvtr°v

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122 PROSPECT FROM THE PARTHENON. [cHAP. XV. … He brought the hangings from the Temple's Store, … sequestered object on the distant hills, upon the deep … the fields, with their iron implements of agriculture

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CHAP. XV.] VIEW FBOM THE PARTHENON. 123 … there is nothing of the kind in its place. Now from … fiaXKov Se dtro T7ys ctfjOoiroXews tcexvpevatv. It will serve to restore the

Chapter XVI

124

The three Minervas of the Acropolis, … We pass a little to the northward from the … From its position and attitude it was called the

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Minerva Promachus. The point of its spear, and … It was again this Minerva, the vision of whose … nor of marble; but of olive wood. This was the

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Minerva Polias: the original Minerva of Athens; … 1 This appellation had, in the time of .ffischylus, acquired the cha-

127

CHAP. XVI.] THE PEPLOS OF MINERVA POLIAS. 127 … The obscure epithet by which iEschylus describes … Whether on the Libyan plain … probably here in the mind of iEschylus. The fact

128

attribute of the statue itself. Such an attribute … The two rival demagogues are there boasting to … m'aler Heft. i. p. 5. Hence icaTripetpij iro^a in JEschylus. The statue of … 1134. Dissen. Pind. CM. xi. 4.) as in combat, which is the attitude of

129

3 i.e. The Chryselephantine Statue by Phidias, in the Parthenon. … quired, the Athenian writers of the best age do not give to Minerva

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Pounded by Pallas the Pylesmachus. … To thee Jove's daughter, reeking from the broth … Sooth, she does well, not to forget the Peplos. … notice the small images of Pallas (HaWdSia) worn about the person, … <peoo% irepi eavrov which both Ulysses and Diomed do, in the vase illus-

Chapter XVII

131

ATHENS----THE ACROPOLIS. … Of the Temple of Minerva Polias2 now before us, … and at each of the three extremities thus formed, a … The arguments which may be used to deter-

132

132 DIVISIONS OF THE ERECTHEUM. [CHAP. XVII. … 3 In Philochor. Atthid. Siebel. p. 2, a dog is described as entering the

133

from the Pandroseum, be not of comparatively recent … * It could not be part of the Cecropium, for its western exterior wall

134

A general statement may suffice. Of the eastern

135

rock; and lastly, here grew the 8sacred olive-tree of … the consideration that these two symbols were dis- … Dobree Aristophanic p. 76, who from a reference to the locality of these

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In the Olive's and the golden Gorgon's stead, … said to have been killed by a stroke of the trident … The Erectheum had not a religious merely, it had

137

The olive tree of Minerva was preserved in this

138

quently visited on the same day; the tree was then … This olive has rendered much service to the poets … 26, 7. ahdtipepov ■ ■ eirt Svo wi\xeK- Thus in the interval of time be-

139

CHAP. XVII.] INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CITADEL. 139

140

140 INSCBIPTIONS IN THE CITADEL. [cHAP. XVII.

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2. Inserted in the outside of the southern wall … The Cecropid Tribe gained the prize with … the result of one of the most important orations of … the nature of the suit. The legal term (irpotWjiu'a) in which Leptines

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3. Near the descent to the source of the Clep- … The People erect a Statue to Gnteus Acerronius Proclus, … the last line may be discerned the words nearly erased … also converted, as they did, the equestrian statues of … this statement of D. Chrysostom, when he himself observes in the next … sanias used the above obscure expressions for fear of giving offence:

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spot at the entrance of the citadel, into Patricians of … Another statue hy Praxiteles, which stood at the … The following is on a pedestal, much defaced: … conferring honorary distinctions, which denoted nothing, bat the weakness … 2 Pausan. i. 18, 3. Other instances at Athens of the same practice … be wrote with a significant allusion to the practice of his times in this

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him. In the quinquennial priesthood of Hierocles of Phlya...

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CHAP. XVII.] INSCRIPTION IN THE CITADEL.

146

INSCRIPTION IN THE CITADEL. [cHAP. XVII.

Chapter XVIII

147

Every one, we see, adores the Temple of Theseus as well as

148

of iEschylus and Sophocles. The Hero and the Saint … in the same spirit the deeds and glory of these two

149

heroes and 2 friends. The Hercules Furens of Euripi- … by a bond of national amity: and when the former … only from the beauty of its structure, but as a con-

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Such is the integrity of its structure, and the … indeed admirable; and the loveliness of its colouring

Chapter XIX

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Tower of the fVinds, %c. … tioned here, as completing our notices of the decorated

152

J 52 TEMPLE OF THE WINDS. [cHAP. XIX. … the influence of each wind on the climate of Attica.

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wind, Notus, is ready to deluge the ground from a … was then (to TraXaidv) no indication even of the year, much less of the … where Valckenaer (Diatr. p. 6.) has well restored e-rtiois. The expres-

154

individuals, we may imagine the ravenous parasite … When the shade on the dial has come to ten feet, to go to a … there was a water-clock in the inside of this tower, … But the vaoi were not fieydXoi, as this surviving fabric shews; there-

155

the Tripods gained by victorious Choragi in the neigh- … Connected with the Dionysiac Theatre on the west and this street … And connected with the street of Tripods the following:

156

The Temple of Jupiter Olympius was one of the … in philosophy, the idea which was due to the majesty

Chapter XX

157

The Stadium. … The Stadium of Athens was the most remarkable

158

line (Spdfios, or o-TaSiov), turned round the point of … It was this inclination in the bed of the Stadium, … in the Stadium, who run well indeed from its lower … structed till the administration of the orator Lycurgus, about 350 B. c.

159

shoot forth impetuously, but at the end of the race they … Have traversed on the course, and reached the goal,

160

He flayed the hide more quickly than a runner … dial2 traversed by the shadow cast upon its face.

160a

The different species of courses in the Stadium, mentioned here, are as follows: … from the starting-place to the Kafiir- … With the above Inscription may be compared the very similar one given by

Chapter XXI

161

We return from the Stadium to the Ilissus. To-

162

ing in the stream, and washing ' linen under these … 2 The only passage, as far as I am aware, in the extant works of the

163

which has no better claims on the ground of magnitude … Did the nine holy Muses bear, … at a distance from Athens, its proximity to the walls,

164

164 PLATO AND THE ILISSUS. [CHAP. XXI. … Connected with this same spot, and with the same

165

CHAP. XXI.j FRONTO AND THE ILISSUS. 165 … stand, may, by reference to the localities of the spot, … a/ua aftfpoo /3a$«ra«u.ei>. You seem anxious to see the

166

166 FRONTO AND THE ILISSUS. [CHAP. XXI. … bled in this respect, both in its name and the

Chapter XXII

167

Plan of the City. … Where shall I find the Pnyx, where the Cerameicus, the Agora,

168

168 MAP OF THE CITY. [CHAP. XXII. … It is evident that the site of the Pnyx would

169

CHAP. XXII.] THE AGORA. 169 … 3 They stood on the eastern verge of the Agora on a platform, pro-

170

170 KOUTE FROM THE CITADEL [cHAP. XXII. … Heindorf. The speech of Praxagora in Ecclesiaz. 685. is a very de- … The 6!JTa cannot refer to the Theseum, which is not a Stoa, as

171

CHAP. XXII.] TO THE WESTERN CITY WALL. 171 … portance to determine that question, as this was the … 5 Pausan. i. 2. 4. Hence the Temple of Ceres, and the statue of

172

objects employed in the sacred Trofxirai or proces- … passed. Now, it is well known that the Panathenaic

173

The Dipylum led to Eleusis; it led also to Co- … * It must not be forgotten, that when writers speak of the inner

174

The site occupied by the Agora coincided with

175

portance, erected in this district. The elevation of the … covered at 3Skyros the remains of Theseus, and con- … 4 Cimon going as it seems from his house to the citadel passes … XprifictToiv -r eniov /lepos), which was I conceive realized in the inau-

176

A part of the city which adjoined Melite, and … positions of importance in Athenian topography. The

177

tery4 in which the family of Cimon reposed, here … in the quarter between the Agora and the outer Ce- … in a case of assault detailed the following circum- … we have placed it: Herodotus places the cemetery just outside the walls

178

northern verge of the Agora: the defendant passes … the line of their mutual contact. Melite was pro-

179

cess, in a tragic character, intends to add to the … which appears from its position to be coeval with the … borough of the .Egeid Tribe. In Bekker. Lex. Seg. p. 240. for AEIOMNA; … 5 In Milton's description of Athens (P. R. iv. 283.) the only topo-

180

180 PffiCILE IN THE AGORA. [CHAP. XXII. … I should conjecture from the style of this distich

181

the spot in which the Spartan shields taken at sPylos … 3 Meton, the celebrated astronomer, lived near the Poecile, (jElian.

182

a map1 of it on the table where they were sitting. But

Chapter XXIII

183

/ have heard this description of the Panathenaic festival:

184

The peplos, at the commencement of its course, … 3 This is asserted here on the authority of an extract from Strattis,

185

The magnificent ship-like car, with all its splendid … ow. Strattis meant to say, that the crowd draws the peplos along, … * St Non, Voyage de la Sicile, iv. p. 144. See the representation

186

through the most splendid streets of Athens, to spread

187

ward, 5coasting the northern rocks of the Acropolis. … Standing upon the rocky Citadel … s Hence Virgil has imagined a convenient shifting of the wind to

188

Some sable Vessel, at the marble shore … at the southern base of the Areopagus. (Pausan. I. 2. 5.) As the Father-

189

to perform its festal voyages—as the ducal Barge of

Chapter XXIV

190

The outstretch'd arms of the Thesean Way. … Kal to es Ileipaia—the last words are well added to distinguish these … which exactly corresponds with the time in which Pericles began to

191

and under the direction of Callicrates, a third was … The Phaleric wall had therefore now ceased to be regarded as a p.a.Kpdv … 5 This wall was the most important of the three: it was the only

192

of the two Long Walls,' … for the same … made of the Phaleric, or most 'southern and short- … 1 Pausan. rm. 10. 4. calls it twenty stadia. The length of the two … tarch, who is very circumstantial on this point, clearly identifies the

193

The execution of the middle or most recent wall, … just executed, in the very minute and copious detail … 4 See some of the analogies traced in Siivern's Essay, p. 28. of Mr … At vm. 45. (a.m.) leave the temple of Theseus.

194

37. Vestiges of a long wall (the Phaleric ?) of a hard coarse … bear further to the north; after 219 paces come to another … which exhibits a public contract with certain individuals for the repair

Chapter XXV

195

Athens, on the way to Sunium, and near the village … descent of a few stone steps, from which access the

196

in the short shepherd's tunic (/3aira), and with a

197

ings in a simple strain, such as the following, which … Grot of the Nymphs, where from the rocky brow … Pacing within the vaulted valleys sidesf … The inscriptions which are seen engraved on the … Liquids were offered in yavXoi, (Theoc. v. 58.) but the yavXoi

198

.198 THE INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CAVE. [CHAP. XXV. … Archedermis of Pher<z, the Nympholept, completed this … tion the long e is introduced, the long 5 is not: and … scription with another in older characters, near the

199

CHAP. XXV.] THE INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CAVE. 199 … By counsel of the Nymphs this cave did execute. … firmed by the character of the other two, which were found here, and of … Nu/i<J>ais e<pvTev\<rev; of which the two latter lines are

200

200 THE GRACES, APOIJ.,0 AND EB8US. [cHAP. XXV. … Having turned to the left round the corner into … the former of which words enjoins that libations

201

CHAP. XXV.] THE GRACES, APOLLO AND ERSUS. 201 … The name of the second deity is not of so com- … The mention of this deity furnishes us, I think, … "Epws, the principle of increase, and adds, p. 286. Man statt des Regens

202

In the first inscription then of all, the word rav- … admissible. The first four letters in this subsequent … This Cave belongs to Ersus and the subterranean Deities. … 1 See an instance of abbreviation in the Elcan Inscription. Boeck.

203

To goat-legg'd Pan, to Bacchus, and the shrine … the place. … 4 Plat. Phaedr. 230. c. Compare his description of the allegorical

204

up the slopes of Mount Hymettus, and conducted by

Chapter XXVI

205

The desolate state of this country is almost in- … five persons on the road during a two day's journey … to the localities of the country is utterly impossible. … " Legrana or Lagriona, perhaps Aaipiov, the v is frequently changed

206

with pine-trees, in the thin foliage of which the win- … called in ancient times the Sphettian way; the direc-

207

such seems the meaning of the fable—was most pro- … we conclude, that the Sphettian way is identical with … detailed account of the division of the Attic territory … .....:The district to the south

208

Now it is observable, that in the narrative which … their hinges. The only signs of life near it are some … * In our way there we leave on the left, Mount Elymbo, Balma

Chapter XXVII

209

The Temple of Sunium is about five miles to the

210

dence in the Acropolis at Athens, Sunium was con- … A little to the north-east of the peninsula on … of that dedicated to Neptune, the Eoiwa'paros. (Aris- … It was the principal fortress of this district, and

211

its name in Latin the prefix of a preposition,—which … on the shaft of one of the columns of its temple the … tus on the western to Thoricus on the eastern shore … is covered. Here the shafts which have been sunk … poses to read AATPIQN : but probably APrYPIQN is nearer the true

212

for working the ore are visible, from which the 'name … The view of the ancient Theatre at Thoricus af- … like a catacomb. Hence in the modem language of Greece, Xaipai (pro- … fivpu/dos to the same root: to which opinion the modern pronunciation of

213

The ancient Games are ushered on the stage, … mirth and laughter the now void and silent sides of … for it was in the port of this place that Dionysus, … a strong resemblance to the representation of the theatre on a fictile

214

In the wall near the theatre is an old postern, … its anchorage is completely sheltered by the long … StretcKd as a rampart by the shore, an isle, … generally, the scarcity of fresh water.

215

for Aurora was said to have carried him off from the … A migration of this character was the lot of CEdi- … from Thoricus, Apollodoi. II. 4. 7. See the representation on the vase

216

at the entrance. All these objects are in character

Chapter XXVIII

217

Leaving this morning the hut in which we were … 2 Atheneei, p. 689. e. where Schweighaeuser interprets the expression

218

We leave a hamlet on the left called Metropisi: … at liberty in the open fields, under the sides of the … of carved stone, with the following metrical inscrip- … This is an epitaph: by which the monument simply

219

the last particular: but it may be conjectured, from … After passing through the plain of Keratia … This glen runs in an easterly direction toward the … date, and similar to that in the text I copied it at Athens from two sepa- … Which, with the supplementary additions from conjecture, may be thus

220

montory on the south-east of Port Raphte, which … p. 138.) Myrrhinus stood much further to the north than Meronda. Strabo

221

breadth; in the centre of the entrance is the rocky … The vessel is freighted with barley (icpiOapi), which … those of the ancient Steiria. … bably the Erasmus. It is edged with a line of white … tower on a hill. The landscape is softened by the

222

Iphigenia, the daughter of Agamemnon, was brought … worthy the pencil of Claude. … into the bowl. The mistress of the house pours out … to the north, another almost double the distance, in nearly the same

223

herself and family, in the same spirit and character … and that those alone who were ministers of the

224

not met with any instance of the feeling which was … The elder brother of this boy is a youth of … which could not have been suggested by the rude

225

of the 174 ' demi or boroughs, which once peopled … A*rAOTS fieTot/cous, and not AOYAOTS jmtoi'kots, as the text now

226

is appropriate in this place. The EUaSeU v. 5. are probably connected

227

Epameinon, the Son of Ameinias, made this motion: Since … I copied at Athens, another illustration of the text of this same play.

Chapter XXIX

228

from Athens. The showery season has now set in, … from Marcopoulo, we leave to the right the villages

229

pose the statue of a lion was often employed. The … tower on a hill, near the village of Krabata: whence

Chapter XXX

230

To trace the footsteps left by ancient Time.

231

At the peak'd Olympus height, … is one of the fanciful airs which they sing to evoke … is on the road from Athens to Mount Penielicus.

232

Such resemblances are not rare. The names of the … Athens we pass the village of Marousi. Marousi … cord of the Athmonian hero of the 3 Aristophanic … Limit of the sacred precincts of Amarusian Artemis,

233

comedy, the Peace, who there describes himself as … It would appear that the Amarusian Artemis was … seems to intimate that the word dicaXavOis had then

234

will as adjacent to the road running to Cephissia, … the village of Harakli (ApaicXel). … He would probably connect the 'A6/x.oveis (at Marousi) as AiO/ioneU with

235

the village of Chalcomatades preserves still, in its … (Cp. Sluiter Lect. Andoc. pp. 0 and 53, and for the history, Herod, v. 64.) … 5 Eur. Heraclid. 1030. See a similar fable with respect to the body

236

far from Acharnse: and thus the expression put into … which form the temple would be called YleWrfviicov. … IIEAANEY2 is an error of the text for riEAAHNETS. Cp. Valcken. … 377. Hesych. v. YapyriTTos). Hence is explained the story of Plutarch, … The same story would lead us to suppose that Agnus was near to … (Plutarch. Thes. 13.) in order to take Theseus in the rear when he had

237

the demus of Hephsestia, from the following circum- … she comes on the occasion of the birth of Erictho- … was a Corporation6 of Parasiti attached to the He- … 4 On the connexion of Pallas with Hephaestus, see, Plat. Critia, … • In Athenseus, 234. f. Two of the three Parasiti there mentioned

238

Hephsestia. The archives of this Corporation were … our intercourse with him the names which have grown … After returning to Athens, I visit the two white

239

On the two hills of Colonus are two churches. … and clemency. This, her name—eXeovaa, or ' the … The place entire is holy: here resides

240

this place: so is the site of the Temple of the … This ambiguity probably arises from the conflict-

241

CHAP. XXX.] SCENE OF THE DEATH OF OEDIPUS. 241 … Thus he was embarrassed by the claims of a

242

242 SCENE OF THE DEATH OF CEDIPUS. [CHAP. XXX.

Chapter XXXI

243

On the Mgean shore a city stands … migrated into the south of Greece, where he used to

244

the showers which fell. Diogenes in this respect … Thebes, Delium, and so over the river Asopus, and … a snow-storm. The snow was drifting with incessant

245

window—there was not then a pane of glass in the … for the sake of a ransom on their release—to the

246

prised to hear, on our arrival at Athens, that the … to the opinion expressed by one of the speakers in … 1 The Author is indebted to the kindness of the Bishop of Lincoln

247

B. Nay—it is foul, since the time of Lysander, and the … And more of them die from the air … the climate and seasons of Attica.

248

Of the natural properties of Attica, the air possesses su-

Chapter XXXII

249

The Bazar or Market at Athens is a long street, … these are the varied objects which a rapid glance

250

cried in the streets, if they were not claimed by

251

in a few years in the general aspect of things in this

Chapter XXXIII

252

The arrival of the new King of Greece, which … in the Pnyx, to meet Philip of Macedon at Ther-

253

ceremony provided expressly for such occasions in the … 7rp6s T(jJ vew Trjs 'A6t)vas. I, at the instance of my … 3 As an indication of the public feeling now entertained here, and

254

254 HARANGUE OF THE BISHOP. [cHAP. XXXHI.

255

CHAP. XXXIII.] ASSEMBLY IN THE OPEN AIR. 255 … Some of his audience were standing on the rising

256

since the supposed relics of Theseus, the old Athe- … the ceremony of to-day; how must it be astonished … claimed to the Athenian people on that self-same

Chapter XXXIV

257

It was dangerous to travel by the road leading from the Morea … This description of the state of the Isthmus of

258

few days ago, two Greeks coming from the Peirseus … remain stationary in one spot, the embarrassments … direction whatever, with any confidence, for the … the village of ' Menidi near Acharnse resides the

259

the whole of the province is reduced to beggary. … tioned to shew that even the immediate neighbour- … has just been abandoned, on account of the insecurity

Chapter XXXV

260

while addressing himself, in the name of Menander,

261

CHAP. XXXV.] THE STRAITS. 261 … 'EX\a$a; the Eleusinian Mysteries, the neighbouring … But before it can be assumed to illustrate the

262

Hence it was that when the Athenians expressed

263

selves pursued by their antagonists, the principal … of the older name, which, in the mouth of a Greek, … The position of his throne seems to have been on the southern side of

264

the hill-side upon the main-land, uttering a loud cry … the dark-red colour of its sails, strongly contrasted

Chapter XXXVI

265

At eight o'clock this morning we arrive in the

266

and its historical recollections, is the most remarkable

267

Nicolas, the modern Neptune of Greece. There are … Various dates have been assigned to the erection

268

builders employed in the construction of the fabric. … From a comparison of the characters in these in- … The beautiful ruin of the JSginetan Temple, at

269

The ground is diversified by grey rocks overhung … at the distance of eight miles from the city of iEgina

270

cide with that of the Panhellenium. … that is, opos Tejuevot/s 'A8t)vdias, The limit of the

271

That it was dedicated to the Goddess of Athens … We visit to-day the site of the Panhellenium1. … the ancient inhabitants of the island. On its sum-

272

I believe the summit of this mountain, called

273

clouded summit of the wished-for rain. He perhaps … lated the transforming process, between the character

274

The Panhellenian Mount was consecrated in the … trov avriji, that Elias prayed, and the heavens gave

275

Pausanias saw in his way from the city of JSgina … This inscription affords, I believe, the earliest

276

Boundary of the sacred precinct of Apollo and Neptune. … very gloomy, the light being derived from the door … There is a road of recent construction from the … to have made themselves compensation for the re-

277

in the age of Pheidon. They have, no doubt, taken

Appendix

279

municate to the reader the following details with … My answer to your inquiries as to the newly-

280

from the remains of a Roman bath or an imperial villa. … earlier epoch—and are parts of one great whole. The … marble, and fragments left by the hammer and the chisel;

281

inches high, finished with all the minute taste of the … On the edge of a fragment of a vase, taken from the

282

It is not of the Doric order, as that traveller asserts, but

283

discovered near the modern mint, which have excited

284

on an eminence overlooking the town, the Hymettian … at the rate of £1200 or £1300 an acre. This is at a … twenty feet wide appears. The style of building is rather

285

the Italian colonnade is seen; happily the English red … 1 The population is said now to exceed 20,000. March 1837.

286

made at present to adorn the Grecian city in this respect'. … templation ; the population may be about 1,500. Though

287

Nor wiU, I conceive, the decrees, which have been, from … planted. When the National Bank, which is to be 3put … 8 This scheme has been hitherto suspended in consequence of the

288

vance rapidly; but it is much to be wished that the judg- … in the beauty, history, and climate of Greece, as well as in … her path, I can only see for Greece success in the future.

289

of her powers for happiness. The paltry rebellion, #near … to America on the business of the Mission. Mr Hill2 is … 1 Five of the ancient Chiefs or Capitani of the war of freedom com-

290

I shall gladly avail myself of the opportunity … The richer lands and higher plains of Greece produced

291

generally at any time from dearth. The plains of Arcadia … than thyme, and that the farina itself is sooner dissipated: Of the many … approaching in taste to conserve of roses—this till the revolution was

292

are few villages in Greece where a little of the former … has achieved the long desired object of opening this … have been discovered during the past year, but nothing

293

houses. The town (with its rising palace) has now become … sures have been proposed by him. The Council of State … taxes being the chief kid on agricultural produce.

294

Count Armansperg has signalized the last year of his … Armansperg, and several despotic acts towards the citi-

295

The Editor of the Tachydromos, of March 13, very … This is the first time his Majesty has deigned to preside … Thus then I look to the prospects of Greece without … 1 See Mr Finlay's pamphlet on "The Hellenic Kingdom, 1836."

296

which, in the works of Plato, is lauded as the hest1—a … feudal power, will not easily forget the necessity for a … the great Powers of Europe never desert a youthful

297

ness. Those who speak the Greek language still inhabit … 3 The following Newspapers are named in the advertisement of a

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