DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.29463#0135
Portraits of Suitan Mehmed II show that sultans' turbans in the
fifteenth century had a low cap of red fabric quilted vertically, with a
white wrap draped not very high,*^ although in the well-known
portrait by Gentile Bellini, the Sultan wears a splendid large turban.
The sixteenth century and the hrst half of the next century was a
period of tall, sumptuous turbans for sultans and dignitaries. Wraps
were so rich that the only part of the cap visible was the tip, but even
this sometimes disappeared completely. The substantial ornament of
the sultan's turban was the plume called in precious mount-
ing, the aigrette fsorgMc). The grand vizier was allowed to wear a
turban with two aigrettes, while lower pashas had only one aigrette.
Very large turbans with a huge spherical wrap, without ornament,
were worn by the Muslim religious dignitaries; these turbans were
called or/ or mimaA/hdr.
Sultan Selim I introduced the third type of turban, called
used only by the sultan and the highest dignitaries during some court
ceremonies. Its core was of pasteboard in the form of a straight
cylinder, about 2 feet high; the core was covered with muslin, convex
at the top, and this in turn was covered with red fabric and some-
times decorated with feathers. The turban called wMcgvvgzc (permit-
ted) was similar to a sugar loaf, but on a square base; it was covered
with muslin, red at the top and decorated in front with a diagonal
band of gold. Still another type of dignitary turban was expanded at
the top, looked like a jug or vase, and was called (which in
Arabic means jug); it was about 15 inches high, wrapped with muslin,
and decorated with a silver band. SelimI, mticevveze, and kallavi
were without actual wraps in the conventional meaning but never-
theless are regarded as turbans and were worn only for special
occasions and ceremonies. In the second half of the seventeenth
century a new type of turban called AatwA (pasha's headgear)
came into fashion. It consisted of a high cylindrical cloth cap, some-
times enlarged at the top, backstitched vertically, with a low white
wrap crossed above the forehead. It was worn by court officials,
dignitaries, and rich patricians, as well as by the Sultan himself,
although in his case with a rich aigrette in front. Sultan Mahmud II
has a diamond aigrette on his pasah kavuk as represented in the
costume book painted by Fenerci Ahmed in 1811.'^
A special official of the sultan's court, the aga of turbans, or
111
fifteenth century had a low cap of red fabric quilted vertically, with a
white wrap draped not very high,*^ although in the well-known
portrait by Gentile Bellini, the Sultan wears a splendid large turban.
The sixteenth century and the hrst half of the next century was a
period of tall, sumptuous turbans for sultans and dignitaries. Wraps
were so rich that the only part of the cap visible was the tip, but even
this sometimes disappeared completely. The substantial ornament of
the sultan's turban was the plume called in precious mount-
ing, the aigrette fsorgMc). The grand vizier was allowed to wear a
turban with two aigrettes, while lower pashas had only one aigrette.
Very large turbans with a huge spherical wrap, without ornament,
were worn by the Muslim religious dignitaries; these turbans were
called or/ or mimaA/hdr.
Sultan Selim I introduced the third type of turban, called
used only by the sultan and the highest dignitaries during some court
ceremonies. Its core was of pasteboard in the form of a straight
cylinder, about 2 feet high; the core was covered with muslin, convex
at the top, and this in turn was covered with red fabric and some-
times decorated with feathers. The turban called wMcgvvgzc (permit-
ted) was similar to a sugar loaf, but on a square base; it was covered
with muslin, red at the top and decorated in front with a diagonal
band of gold. Still another type of dignitary turban was expanded at
the top, looked like a jug or vase, and was called (which in
Arabic means jug); it was about 15 inches high, wrapped with muslin,
and decorated with a silver band. SelimI, mticevveze, and kallavi
were without actual wraps in the conventional meaning but never-
theless are regarded as turbans and were worn only for special
occasions and ceremonies. In the second half of the seventeenth
century a new type of turban called AatwA (pasha's headgear)
came into fashion. It consisted of a high cylindrical cloth cap, some-
times enlarged at the top, backstitched vertically, with a low white
wrap crossed above the forehead. It was worn by court officials,
dignitaries, and rich patricians, as well as by the Sultan himself,
although in his case with a rich aigrette in front. Sultan Mahmud II
has a diamond aigrette on his pasah kavuk as represented in the
costume book painted by Fenerci Ahmed in 1811.'^
A special official of the sultan's court, the aga of turbans, or
111