172 THE ISLES AND SHRINES OF GREECE
the fairy tale. They are of all sizes and of all
qualities, but all of the Greek national type, — red,
stitched with yellow, with silk-tufted toes which arc
turned up somewhat in the Elizabethan style. " A
few loungers in fustanella," says Mavilla, " leaned in
the doorways, playing with their beads and talking
politics with the shoemakers within. Before we had
walked half the length of the street, however, the
shoemakers jumped from their benches, the loungers
turned to stare, and we were suddenly surrounded
and assailed with the cries of ' Madama.' At once
the sleepy street was in a state of excitement. For-
eign customers were coveted prey and must be cap-
tured. We usually took refuge in the nearest shop,
leaving the rival dealers looking round the corner
till we should emerge. Though apparently there
was nothing for sale but red shoes, it was marvellous
what quantities of other things the jealous shop-
keepers brought into the street and flaunted before
our bewildered eyes." Another street near by Ma-
villa named the " Street of the Anvil." Here they
used to watch the coppersmiths hammer their pretty
wares, or hunted for curiosities in the old iron shops, or
went into the dingy bell-foundry to buy tinkling goat
bells. " There was always a goat in the shop, and I
never knew whether he was kept as a milliner's
model to try on the bells or to cat up the iron filings
which fell to the floor." Nothing, however, seemed
to exercise such a mysterious charm over these
young ladies as a pottery shop, devoted to every
form of earthenware. Just how many of these shops
the family supported while in Athens I will not ven-
ture to say, but Taphyllc's ambition was not satisfied
the fairy tale. They are of all sizes and of all
qualities, but all of the Greek national type, — red,
stitched with yellow, with silk-tufted toes which arc
turned up somewhat in the Elizabethan style. " A
few loungers in fustanella," says Mavilla, " leaned in
the doorways, playing with their beads and talking
politics with the shoemakers within. Before we had
walked half the length of the street, however, the
shoemakers jumped from their benches, the loungers
turned to stare, and we were suddenly surrounded
and assailed with the cries of ' Madama.' At once
the sleepy street was in a state of excitement. For-
eign customers were coveted prey and must be cap-
tured. We usually took refuge in the nearest shop,
leaving the rival dealers looking round the corner
till we should emerge. Though apparently there
was nothing for sale but red shoes, it was marvellous
what quantities of other things the jealous shop-
keepers brought into the street and flaunted before
our bewildered eyes." Another street near by Ma-
villa named the " Street of the Anvil." Here they
used to watch the coppersmiths hammer their pretty
wares, or hunted for curiosities in the old iron shops, or
went into the dingy bell-foundry to buy tinkling goat
bells. " There was always a goat in the shop, and I
never knew whether he was kept as a milliner's
model to try on the bells or to cat up the iron filings
which fell to the floor." Nothing, however, seemed
to exercise such a mysterious charm over these
young ladies as a pottery shop, devoted to every
form of earthenware. Just how many of these shops
the family supported while in Athens I will not ven-
ture to say, but Taphyllc's ambition was not satisfied