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Biedrońska-Słotowa, Beata
Crossroads of costume and textiles in Poland: papers from the International Conference of the ICOM Costume Committee at the National Museum in Cracow, September 28 - October 4, 2003 — Krakau, 2005

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.22262#0013
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JOANNA MARSCHNER

State Apartments and Royal Ceremoniał Dress Collection
Kensington Palące, London

CEREMONIAŁ DRESS. GREAT BRITAIN MEETS POL AND

During the eighteenth century knowledge and interest in Poland, Polish history
and culture grew remarkably in England. From the earliest years of the century
there was an increasing number of travellers who arrived on both shores, their eyes
wide open, relishing new sights and experiences. Wealthy aristocrats from Poland
such as Adam Poniński, August Sułkowski, Seweryn and Jan Potocki, several
members of the Czartoryski family and Stanislas Poniatowski, elected King of
Poland in 1764, had all spent time in London between 1754 and the later 1780s.
While Poland cannot be regarded as a principal venue on the grand tour -1 could
not find any conventional English guidebooks until the early nineteenth century
- there was a growing interest in what were termed the 'Northern Countries'.

The merchant Joseph Marshall claimed to be the first to make such a tour in 1770.
He was followed in 1778 by Sir Nathanial Wraxall, and shortly after this by Lord
Herbert and his scholarly mentor Archdeacon William Coxe. The Earl of March
arrived in August 1782 and Lady Elizabeth Craven made her way to Constantino-
ple via Warsaw in January 1786. She was followed by Lord Wycombe, Sir Ralph
and Lady Payne, the Marąuis of Titchfield and Lord Darnley.

There were several factors which contributed to this awakening interest. Since the
early eighteenth century there was an increasing awareness of the position of Poland
within international politics. The Polish Maria Leszczyńska, daughter of the Duke
of Lorraine and former King of Poland had married Louis XV of France in 1725.
The tortuous relationship between Catherine the Great of Russia, Joseph II, the Holy
Roman Emperor and Frederick II King of Prussia with Stanislas August of Poland
in the 1770s was debated and even lampooned in English journals. Stanislas August
himself had many English friends and contacts made during his visit in 1754.

Artist were also to play their part. They had been ąuick to appreciate the exotic
ąualities of Polish dress. Jean Antoine Watteau painted his Reveuse between 1716
and 1717, possibly showing the actress Charlotte Desmares in Polish dress. In about
1718 he painted his Femme Polonnaise wearing her white kerchief, pink dress
 
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