DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.22262#0040
June Swann
a woman could surely show off with a careful swing of her crinoline. A Northamp-
ton catalogue of ca. 1890 offers them with elastic sides or buttons, the beginning of
the end, while the last reference of this phase, 1902, shows them still front lace with
the curvy top. But boots for women were coming towards the end of their long reign
as the major fashion anyway. With Poland's entry into the EU next year, I shall ex-
pect Polish influence yet again.
POULAINE
See Crackowe, Pike.
OED: the long pointed toe of a shoe, usually not the shoe itself.
ca. 1300 BC Egyptian palm-leaf sandał with long point at toe turned back and attached
to front. Note: this tradition has survived to the present on traditional Indian footwear,
where the point is usually laid on top of the vamp.
1340 A. Franklin, La Vie Prwee d'Autrefois 22, 184: word not much before 1340. Great-
est development ca. 1430.
2nd half of the fourteenth century Polish & Bohemian references to calcei and sotulares
rostrati (no mention of Polish influence).
Kraków costume curator, Dr. Beata Slotowa: 'Fourteenth-fifteenth century shoes in Po-
land were in west European styles; some of them bought there. The fashion did not
originate in Eastern Europę.'
JS 2001 p. 67: Kraków capital of Poland, which grew to the largest state in Europę in
the fifteenth century.
1362-70 Lacroix p. 51: Urban V blament les pretres de porter des souliers a la poulaine.
1365 Franklin ibid.: some whipped the ground in walking, some with beli on end or
bird beak, some curved under the foot like griffon's claws (latter for riders).
1368 Lacroix: lettres patents defendaient souliers a la poulaine.
1371 Zurich edict: no one allowed to wear shoes, part of which are meant to take sup-
ports.
no date, Godefroy, Diet. de VAna Lang. Fr. ąuotes Modus F°65 Tefferel: les gens qui ores
sont fort ortaulx de bourre qui passe demi-pie les ortaulx, et sont nommees poulennes.
1392 Arch.J. 144, piece 71: ainsi que ils danęoient, fu mardie par aucun de la dance sur
la poulaine des souliers d'iceulx, compaignons de Picardie.
1396 Juv. des Urs, Hist. de Charles VI, Michaud: ils avaient grands poulennes a leurs
souliers.
French inventory: chausses... a longues poulaines de balaine.
1572 Franklin ąuotes Monstrelet re Med: un ąuartier de long (more than 50 cm).
38
a woman could surely show off with a careful swing of her crinoline. A Northamp-
ton catalogue of ca. 1890 offers them with elastic sides or buttons, the beginning of
the end, while the last reference of this phase, 1902, shows them still front lace with
the curvy top. But boots for women were coming towards the end of their long reign
as the major fashion anyway. With Poland's entry into the EU next year, I shall ex-
pect Polish influence yet again.
POULAINE
See Crackowe, Pike.
OED: the long pointed toe of a shoe, usually not the shoe itself.
ca. 1300 BC Egyptian palm-leaf sandał with long point at toe turned back and attached
to front. Note: this tradition has survived to the present on traditional Indian footwear,
where the point is usually laid on top of the vamp.
1340 A. Franklin, La Vie Prwee d'Autrefois 22, 184: word not much before 1340. Great-
est development ca. 1430.
2nd half of the fourteenth century Polish & Bohemian references to calcei and sotulares
rostrati (no mention of Polish influence).
Kraków costume curator, Dr. Beata Slotowa: 'Fourteenth-fifteenth century shoes in Po-
land were in west European styles; some of them bought there. The fashion did not
originate in Eastern Europę.'
JS 2001 p. 67: Kraków capital of Poland, which grew to the largest state in Europę in
the fifteenth century.
1362-70 Lacroix p. 51: Urban V blament les pretres de porter des souliers a la poulaine.
1365 Franklin ibid.: some whipped the ground in walking, some with beli on end or
bird beak, some curved under the foot like griffon's claws (latter for riders).
1368 Lacroix: lettres patents defendaient souliers a la poulaine.
1371 Zurich edict: no one allowed to wear shoes, part of which are meant to take sup-
ports.
no date, Godefroy, Diet. de VAna Lang. Fr. ąuotes Modus F°65 Tefferel: les gens qui ores
sont fort ortaulx de bourre qui passe demi-pie les ortaulx, et sont nommees poulennes.
1392 Arch.J. 144, piece 71: ainsi que ils danęoient, fu mardie par aucun de la dance sur
la poulaine des souliers d'iceulx, compaignons de Picardie.
1396 Juv. des Urs, Hist. de Charles VI, Michaud: ils avaient grands poulennes a leurs
souliers.
French inventory: chausses... a longues poulaines de balaine.
1572 Franklin ąuotes Monstrelet re Med: un ąuartier de long (more than 50 cm).
38