212
TOORKMUN DESERT.
CHAP. VIII.
On the 14'th of June we entered the desert, and
travelled all night on our way to the Oxus. We
left the great high road from Balkh to Kilef, the
usual ferry, from a fear of robbers, and journeyed
westward. At daylight we halted, and had an in-
sight of what we were to expect in the deserts of
Tartary. The mountains of Hindoo Koosh had en-
tirely disappeared below the horizon, and a wide
plain like an ocean of sand surrounded us on all
sides. Here and there were a few round huts, or,
as they are called, " khirglias," the abode of the
erratic Toorkmuns. The inhabitants were few in
number; at first sight, they present a fierce and ter-
rible aspect to a stranger. We alighted near one
of their settlements ; and they strutted about, dress-
ed in huge black sheepskin caps, but did not molest
us ; and I have now only to introduce our new ac-
quaintances, since we shall have ample opportunities
to speak of them hereafter. We pitched our camp
in their desert, and found a scanty supply of water
that had trickled down thus far from the canals of
Balkh. We had now no tent, nor shelter of any
kind, but a coarse single blanket, which we used to
stretch across two sets of panniers. Even this
flimsy covering sheltered us from the sun's rays;
and at night we had it removed, and slept in the
open air. Our food now consisted of bread and tea;
for the Toorkmuns often object to dispose of their
sheep, since it injures their estate; and we could
only look on their countless flocks with a desire to
possess a single lamb, which often could not be gra-
tified. Europeans, who are so much accustomed to
TOORKMUN DESERT.
CHAP. VIII.
On the 14'th of June we entered the desert, and
travelled all night on our way to the Oxus. We
left the great high road from Balkh to Kilef, the
usual ferry, from a fear of robbers, and journeyed
westward. At daylight we halted, and had an in-
sight of what we were to expect in the deserts of
Tartary. The mountains of Hindoo Koosh had en-
tirely disappeared below the horizon, and a wide
plain like an ocean of sand surrounded us on all
sides. Here and there were a few round huts, or,
as they are called, " khirglias," the abode of the
erratic Toorkmuns. The inhabitants were few in
number; at first sight, they present a fierce and ter-
rible aspect to a stranger. We alighted near one
of their settlements ; and they strutted about, dress-
ed in huge black sheepskin caps, but did not molest
us ; and I have now only to introduce our new ac-
quaintances, since we shall have ample opportunities
to speak of them hereafter. We pitched our camp
in their desert, and found a scanty supply of water
that had trickled down thus far from the canals of
Balkh. We had now no tent, nor shelter of any
kind, but a coarse single blanket, which we used to
stretch across two sets of panniers. Even this
flimsy covering sheltered us from the sun's rays;
and at night we had it removed, and slept in the
open air. Our food now consisted of bread and tea;
for the Toorkmuns often object to dispose of their
sheep, since it injures their estate; and we could
only look on their countless flocks with a desire to
possess a single lamb, which often could not be gra-
tified. Europeans, who are so much accustomed to