Burnes, Alexander: Travels into Bokhara: containing the narrative of a voyage on the Indus from the sea to Lahore, ... and an account of a journey from India to Cabool, Tartary and Persia ; performed by order of the supreme government of India, in the years 1831, 32, and 33 (Band 2) (London, 1835)

229

CHAP. IX.

bokhara.

Our first care on entering Bokhara was to change
our garb, and conform to the usages prescribed by
the laws of the country. A petition to the minister
might, perhaps, have relieved us from the necessity,
but the measure was in consonance with our own
principle, and we did not delay a moment in adopt-
ing it. Our turbans were exchanged for shabby
sheep-skin caps, with the fur inside ; and our " kum-
murbunds" (girdles) were thrown aside for a rude
piece of rope or tape. The outer garment of the
country was discontinued, as well as our stockings;
since these are the emblems of distinction in the
holy city of Bokhara between an infidel and a true
believer. We knew also that none but a Mahom-
medan might ride within the walls of the city, and
had an inward feeling which told us to be satisfied
if we were permitted, at such trifling sacrifices, to
continue our abode in the capital. A couplet*,
which describes Samarcand as the paradise of the
world, also names Bokhara as the strength of re-
ligion and of Islam ; and, impious and powerless as

* Samarcand suequl-i-rooee Eumeen ust
Bokhara qoowut-i-Islam ivu deen ust.
Q 3