100
THE RIVIERA DI SALO
of Lonato, I repeat, is fine, that of Sermione is finer,
but that of Peschiera is the finest of all. And so
we must do our utmost to recover the place. I
confess that I returned to Sermione in a fit of bad
temper, which is not yet over, thinking of the great
wrong which has been done us, and seeing how
useless the place is to the Catholic king, and how
pleasant and useful it would be to us. But I will
say no more about this now. To-morrow I shall
visit the island of the Friars Minor, and go on to
sleep at Salo. That Spanish Governor told me that
I could easily find rooms there, and courteously
invited me to visit the place. Afterwards, I shall
return along this shore, while the weather is fine,
although it is too early to find anything to enjoy
here, excepting the pure air. I would have sent
you some fish, but know you do not eat it, nor any
fruit, and indeed very little fish has been caught,
and since I have been here I have not seen a single
sardine. They say that the air is too clear and the
winds are in the wrong quarter.”
The next day Isabella rowed across to the little
island and saw the ancient church, built by St.
Francis on the ruins of a temple of Jupiter, and
crossed over to the picturesque Riviera, where the
tall church and roofs of Salo nestle among orange
and lemon groves, at the foot of Monte Pennino.
On the 23rd, she gave the Marquis her usual account
of her doings :—
“Yesterday, as I told you, I went to the Isola
dei Frati. The place and situation are both fine,
but badly supplied with fruit and delicacies—how
could it be otherwise? The Friars welcomed me
warmly, and the captain of Salo, Guglielmo di
THE RIVIERA DI SALO
of Lonato, I repeat, is fine, that of Sermione is finer,
but that of Peschiera is the finest of all. And so
we must do our utmost to recover the place. I
confess that I returned to Sermione in a fit of bad
temper, which is not yet over, thinking of the great
wrong which has been done us, and seeing how
useless the place is to the Catholic king, and how
pleasant and useful it would be to us. But I will
say no more about this now. To-morrow I shall
visit the island of the Friars Minor, and go on to
sleep at Salo. That Spanish Governor told me that
I could easily find rooms there, and courteously
invited me to visit the place. Afterwards, I shall
return along this shore, while the weather is fine,
although it is too early to find anything to enjoy
here, excepting the pure air. I would have sent
you some fish, but know you do not eat it, nor any
fruit, and indeed very little fish has been caught,
and since I have been here I have not seen a single
sardine. They say that the air is too clear and the
winds are in the wrong quarter.”
The next day Isabella rowed across to the little
island and saw the ancient church, built by St.
Francis on the ruins of a temple of Jupiter, and
crossed over to the picturesque Riviera, where the
tall church and roofs of Salo nestle among orange
and lemon groves, at the foot of Monte Pennino.
On the 23rd, she gave the Marquis her usual account
of her doings :—
“Yesterday, as I told you, I went to the Isola
dei Frati. The place and situation are both fine,
but badly supplied with fruit and delicacies—how
could it be otherwise? The Friars welcomed me
warmly, and the captain of Salo, Guglielmo di