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60 SAMOS.

island. On the shore are the houses of some of the merchants, with their magazines, and some of
the agents or vice consuls of foreign states live near the beach. The habitations cover the
northern side of a conical hill, and are approached by steep, crooked and dirty streets, scarcely
passable on horseback.

Bathy may be about forty miles south of Smyrna, and seventeen from the opposite cape called
Hypsile Boroun. Though surrounded by hills, the two peaked summits of Mount Mycale, now
called Karene, on the continent of Asia, form the principal feature of the entrance of the port.
Homer applies to this mountain the epithet ouxstm kol^vql^ Not far from Bathy, on the road to the
ports in the streights or boccas of Samos, is the village of Palaio Kastro, where, notwithstanding
the name, there do not appear any traces of antiquity. The ancient capital of the island can only
be visited from Bathy by a very rugged path, from which, after an ascent of one hour, Mount
Mycale is seen on the left, the ancient citadel in the centre, and the sole remaining column of the
temple of Juno on the right, upon the southern coast of the island. After descending from this
summit into the valley of Metelinous, and crossing a pretty and permanent stream, fringed with
rhododaphne or oleanders, the village of Metelinous presents itself. This village has nine churches,
and the inhabitants are said to possess most of the cultivable territory near the ancient city. Many
fragments of sculpture, both in bronze and marble, are found in the vicinity. At a short distance
from Metelinous, and separated from it by a low ridge of hills, stands the capital of Samos, now
called, from that circumstance, Chora or " the City." The way to it lies through a pretty glen,
watered by a perennial stream, called AQolmIq JVeo^o, which rises under the mountain Vorliotes or
Borliotis. This city contains at present about three hundred houses, and is the residence of the
Vaivode or governor, as well as of a cadi and the bishop: the last has a commodious residence
in the town. At the period of the Dilettanti mission the Vaivode was a German renegado, who
seemed well disposed, bat was himself evidently governed by the Greek archons of the island.
The mission having waited upon him, he returned the visit on the following morning at the
Herasum, bringing a lamb as a present, and attended by one of the primates.

South ol Chora lies a rich plain of considerable extent, which must anciently have supplied the
city of Samos with provisions, and which is represented in the map accompanying this memoir.
A high tower, which serves as a metochi to the monastery of Patmos, is visible near the coast, and
might serve to guide a stranger to the Heraeum. The remaining column of the temple of Juno
may however be discovered from all parts of the plain. The mission was induced to lodge in
some magazines on the shore, distant about fifty minutes from Chora, on account of their proxi-
mity to the ruins. These magazines were then newly erected, and had caused the destruction of
the greater part of the remaining marbles of the temple of Juno, as was evident from the number
of fragments, particularly of the bases, which appeared in the walls. This marble is white, with
veins of blue or grey, and is found on the eastern coast of the island. Close to the magazines on
the beach is a fountain, probably that which anciently supplied the temple. The river Imbrasus,

* II. ii. 869.
 
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