Dodwell, Edward
Views in Greece — London, 1821

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THE large village of Crisso, which probably occupies the site of the ancient Krissa,
is situated in the ancient territory of Phoeis on the southern side of Parnassos, and
about six miles west of the ruins of Delphi. The Bishop of Salona, who resides at
tins place, gave us reception in his house. This circumstance afforded us a favourable
opportunity of observing some customs which merit commemoration, as instances in
which classical usages have survived the lapse of so many centuries. We dined in an
open gallery which commanded a magnificent view over the classic shores of the Crissaam
Gulf. On the Achaian side this gulf is bounded by the noble range of mountains which
unites with the chain of Panachaikos that stretches towards the Ionian Sea and the ruins
of Dymc. The nearer liills form part of Ozola;a Locris, and the town of Galaxidi is
descried on a peninsula emerging from the Crissa:an Gulf. It occupies the site of an
ancient town, which was probably Euanthia.

Before sitting down to dinner, and after we rose from tabic, we performed the ancient
ceremony of washing the hands. A tin bason is taken round to all the company, the
sen-ant holding it on his left arm, while with his right hand he pours water from a
pewter vessel on the hands of the washer, having a towel thrown over liis shoulder to
dry them with. This ceremony is performed not only before and after meals, but is also
practised by the Greeks and Turks before they commence their prayers. The same was
observed by the ancients, and is mentioned by Hesiod, by Homer, and other authors.

We dined at a round table supported on one leg or column, like the monopodia of
the ancients. We sat on cushions placed on the floor. The dish in the middle of the
table is pilau, composed of rice and boiled meat. The circular cakes, which are a fine kind
of bread, arc named colouri.

The venerable figure reclining on the left hand is the Bishop of Salona. Tliis prelate
is receiving the homage of a Greek peasant, who kisses the ground before he applies Ids
lips to the bishop's hand. The man holding the water-bason is an Albanian christian,
and the person washing is a Greek gentleman. The middle figure at the table is a
village priest designated by the black cap. The woman bringing in a fowl is an
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