DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4393#0172
154' A THOUSAND MILES TIP THE NILE.
those on deck and those in the water. Finally, after some
ten minutes' frantic struggle, the Philte slips off, leaving
the other two aground in the middle of the river.
Toward morning, the noisy night having worn itself
away, we all fall asleep—only to be roused again by Tal-
hamy's voice at seven, proclaiming aloud that the Bag-
stones and Fostat are once more close upon our heels;
that Silsilis and Kom Ombo are passed and left behind;
that we have already put forty-six miles between ourselves
and Edfii; and that the good wind is still blowing.
We are now within fifteen miles of Assuan. The Nile is
narrow here, and the character of the scenery lias quite
changed. Our view is bounded on the Arabian side by a
near range of black granitic mountains; while on the
Libyan side lies a chain of lofty sand-hills, each curiously
capped by a crown of dark bowlders; On both banks the
river is thickly fringed witli palms.
.Meanwhile the race goes on. Last night it was sport;
to-day it is earnest. Last night we raced for glory; to-day_
we race for a stake.
" A guinee for Rei's Hassan if we get first to Assuan!"
Reis Hassan's eyes glisten. No need to call up the
dragoman to interpret between us. The look, the tone,
are as intelligible to him as the choicest Arabic; and the
magical word "guinee" stands for a sovereign now, as it
stood for one-pound-one in the days of Nelson and Abcr-
crombie. He touches his head and breast; casts a back-
ward glance at the pursuing dahabeeyahs, a forward
glance in the direction of Assuan ; kicks off his shoes; ties
a handkerchief about his waist; and stations himself at the
top of the steps leading to~the upper deck. By the light
in his eye and the set look about his mouth, Rei's Hassan
means winning.
Now to be first in Assuan means to be first on the gov-
ernor's list and first up the cataract. And as the passage
of the cataract is some two or three days' work this little
question of priority is by no means unimportant. Not for
five times the promised " guinee" would we have the Fos-
tat slip in first, and so be kept waiting our turn on the
wrong side of the frontier.
And now, as the sun rises higher, so the race waxes
hotter. At breakfast time we were fifteen miles from
Assuan. Now the fifteen miles have gone down to ten;
those on deck and those in the water. Finally, after some
ten minutes' frantic struggle, the Philte slips off, leaving
the other two aground in the middle of the river.
Toward morning, the noisy night having worn itself
away, we all fall asleep—only to be roused again by Tal-
hamy's voice at seven, proclaiming aloud that the Bag-
stones and Fostat are once more close upon our heels;
that Silsilis and Kom Ombo are passed and left behind;
that we have already put forty-six miles between ourselves
and Edfii; and that the good wind is still blowing.
We are now within fifteen miles of Assuan. The Nile is
narrow here, and the character of the scenery lias quite
changed. Our view is bounded on the Arabian side by a
near range of black granitic mountains; while on the
Libyan side lies a chain of lofty sand-hills, each curiously
capped by a crown of dark bowlders; On both banks the
river is thickly fringed witli palms.
.Meanwhile the race goes on. Last night it was sport;
to-day it is earnest. Last night we raced for glory; to-day_
we race for a stake.
" A guinee for Rei's Hassan if we get first to Assuan!"
Reis Hassan's eyes glisten. No need to call up the
dragoman to interpret between us. The look, the tone,
are as intelligible to him as the choicest Arabic; and the
magical word "guinee" stands for a sovereign now, as it
stood for one-pound-one in the days of Nelson and Abcr-
crombie. He touches his head and breast; casts a back-
ward glance at the pursuing dahabeeyahs, a forward
glance in the direction of Assuan ; kicks off his shoes; ties
a handkerchief about his waist; and stations himself at the
top of the steps leading to~the upper deck. By the light
in his eye and the set look about his mouth, Rei's Hassan
means winning.
Now to be first in Assuan means to be first on the gov-
ernor's list and first up the cataract. And as the passage
of the cataract is some two or three days' work this little
question of priority is by no means unimportant. Not for
five times the promised " guinee" would we have the Fos-
tat slip in first, and so be kept waiting our turn on the
wrong side of the frontier.
And now, as the sun rises higher, so the race waxes
hotter. At breakfast time we were fifteen miles from
Assuan. Now the fifteen miles have gone down to ten;