397
Owing to the number of artists and travellers that crowd
hither from all parts of Europe, and to the inhabitants de-
pending on them, in a great measure, for their livelihood,
strangers enjoy at Rome the greatest possible liberty. The
study of every painter and sculptor is open to them, and the
artists not only produce their own works with the greatest
readiness, but will even take you to their friends to see theirs.
This we experienced yesterday ourselves. After paying a
visit to Angelica Kauffman we called on a Mr. K. to see some
acquarell drawings of exquisite beauty. When he perceived
that we enjoyed and discerned the talent and skill displayed
in his works, he spontaneously offered to accompany us to
Mr. D’s, another painter in the same line; and immediately
went with us through several streets, in his morning dress and
slippers ; a costume which in London would have attracted
dozens of idle boys, &c. after us, but which was not noticed
here, altho’ most of the inhabitants of the streets we passed,
were following their callings before their houses in the open air.
From our Consul we receive more than common attention.
He has been so obliging as to procure us an audience of the
Pope, of which, as I just come from it, I will give you the
particulars. Last night we received the intimation that his ho-
liness would see us this morning at nine o’clock, and before
going to bed I went to my trunk, to get ready every part of
my dress for this important occasion. Unfortunate as I am in
most things, ill-luck would have it, that my dress small-clothes
were missing. In vain did I tumble over and over twice or
thrice every individual article of my compendious baggage.
The inexpressibles had become inexplorable ; and whether
Benedetto, my Neapolitan man, had packed them up for
Malta, or packed them off for his own use, remained the only
doubtful surmise to be entertained in this vexatious situation.
The time was too short to order a new pair: I must not only
forego the anxiously longed -for gratification of my curiosity,
but disappoint the Holy Father, who expected two visitors,
and be wanting to the consul who had announced two. In
this
Owing to the number of artists and travellers that crowd
hither from all parts of Europe, and to the inhabitants de-
pending on them, in a great measure, for their livelihood,
strangers enjoy at Rome the greatest possible liberty. The
study of every painter and sculptor is open to them, and the
artists not only produce their own works with the greatest
readiness, but will even take you to their friends to see theirs.
This we experienced yesterday ourselves. After paying a
visit to Angelica Kauffman we called on a Mr. K. to see some
acquarell drawings of exquisite beauty. When he perceived
that we enjoyed and discerned the talent and skill displayed
in his works, he spontaneously offered to accompany us to
Mr. D’s, another painter in the same line; and immediately
went with us through several streets, in his morning dress and
slippers ; a costume which in London would have attracted
dozens of idle boys, &c. after us, but which was not noticed
here, altho’ most of the inhabitants of the streets we passed,
were following their callings before their houses in the open air.
From our Consul we receive more than common attention.
He has been so obliging as to procure us an audience of the
Pope, of which, as I just come from it, I will give you the
particulars. Last night we received the intimation that his ho-
liness would see us this morning at nine o’clock, and before
going to bed I went to my trunk, to get ready every part of
my dress for this important occasion. Unfortunate as I am in
most things, ill-luck would have it, that my dress small-clothes
were missing. In vain did I tumble over and over twice or
thrice every individual article of my compendious baggage.
The inexpressibles had become inexplorable ; and whether
Benedetto, my Neapolitan man, had packed them up for
Malta, or packed them off for his own use, remained the only
doubtful surmise to be entertained in this vexatious situation.
The time was too short to order a new pair: I must not only
forego the anxiously longed -for gratification of my curiosity,
but disappoint the Holy Father, who expected two visitors,
and be wanting to the consul who had announced two. In
this