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THE DAKDANELLES.

61

but asthedW

-' i ebosev
• hiddentu

nanstti- r

which, it

iflte in discovcB
iron* in:

info

of wliicli I give a sketch #; they are of high antiquity,
and of considerable interest from the peculiar costume.
The material is the clay now used for making crockery, and
recognised as such by the particles of mica which it con-
tains : this deposit is brought down from the mountains of
micaceous schist through which the rivers flowf-

I find it very difficult in travelling through this country
to write a journal, or pursue any occupation requiring atten-
tion ; for on arriving and taking possession of my room, the
smoke is no sooner seen to rise from the chimney than the
apartment is half filled with Turks, who, with the most
friendly intention, bring their pipes and sit down, saying
everything that is kind and hospitable, and watching every
motion of my lips and hands. I can scarcely keep my coun-
tenance when I see them staring with astonishment at my
use of a knife and fork. They watch every piece of food to
my mouth; but the moment I look up, their curiosity yields
to their natural politeness, and they turn away. After din-
ner I begin to write, and this they again watch with laugh-
able innocence of wonder: Demetrius is obliged to give
them an early hint that I am going to bed, or they would
sit all night. A few years ago they would not even look at
or speak to an infidel or a Grhiaour; whereas I now receive
the salutation of all the gazers assembled to see me mount
my horse, with its European saddle. The bridle is generally
put on wrong, with the curb-chain over the nose, and the
neck-strap buckled in front of the head, and the putting this
right excites much curiosity. The Italian Addio is known
to many Turks as an expression of courtesy, and it serves on
all occasions of arrival or departure, or to express obligation.

The hills along the coast of the Dardanelles are a mass of

* This appears to be a veiled goddess, with a polus.

f On my arrival in Greece I found that Signor Yitalis had presented
the other two specimens to King Otho, for the Museum in Athens,
together with some coins found also at Abydos.
 
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