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64

CONSTANTINOPLE.

epicure added to the German unmannerly mode of eating;
but perhaps my comfortless voyage has made me hyper-
critical. I will therefore pass on to the pleasure of arriving
on the morning of Saturday, the 9th of March, at this place,
the Eastern capital,—a name which in childhood was a fre-
quent lesson in my copy-book, and from which I now date
my letters,—Constantinople, or, as it is called by the Turks,
Stambool. On landing, I observed vast numbers of por-
pusses, which seemed to threaten to upset the light boats
or caifes which swarm on the water. The Turks always
squat at the bottom of these boats, which are very like
canoes ; but to the European, who sits higher or stands, they
are a dangerous conveyance.

March V&tli.—I have now been four days in the city,
and each day the snow has continued to fall, and the wind
is still north-east. On my noticing the severity of the
weather, the people say, " Yes, we always have this weather
at this season;" and, both from the state of vegetation and
the accounts given by residents here, I am persuaded that
we English are strangely mistaken with regard to the
climate of this country, as well as of Italy, fancying from
the great heat of the summer that there is no cold season.
I am told that the winters here are extremely long and
severe, and that the use of fur is greater than in any part
of northern Europe; every person, male or female, rich
or poor, being clothed in fur, varying from the richest
sable to the most common skins. The houses are certainly
built for a warm season; but Dr. Millingen, a resident
here for many years, with whom I conversed about the
climate, says very truly that it is easier to obtain artificial
heat than cold; the people can warm themselves in winter,
but could not cool an European-built house in summer.

The snow has not prevented my ramblings, but all my
associations of luxury and sunshine with the East, which
have hitherto accompanied minarets, are, like the vegetation



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