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CONSTANTINOPLE.

former state, except the fumes of incense rising from a
censer swung by a page who precedes him. "When I saw
him he was attended by thirty or forty officers on horse-
back, all in the same plain uniform, and he rode for
about three-quarters of a mile along the street lined on
either side by soldiers: a band played as he approached.
In fact no feature of the ceremony would have appeared
extraordinary in any European capital; and there was
scarcely an individual among the thousands that attended,
who had not completely changed costume, manners, and
almost opinions, during the last few years. In the seraglio
the ladies show their faces when attended by their music,
drawing, and French masters; and in so doing at least
three offences against the Mahometan law are committed;
—that a man should be admitted into the harem, that
women should be unveiled before men, and that Maho-
metans should be taught to imitate natural objects and
to speak a foreign tongue.

Curious instances are shown, however, of the difficulty
of subduing the prejudices of an ignorant people. One
very unpopular reform which the Sultan had to effect, in
the formation of his troops, was that of their wearing braces,
—a necessary accompaniment to the trousers: and why?
because these form a cross, the badge of the infidel, upon
the back: many indeed will submit to severe punishment,
and even death, for disobedience to military orders, rather
than bear upon their persons this sign, hostile to their reli-
gion. No one can appreciate the difficulty of making the
first change among this people, without knowing their cha-
racter: succeeding changes will follow with comparatively
little opposition. It is amusing to see the longing after old
habits, which have become in fact the very nature of the
older people : their beards are rather concealed than cut off;
and, in spite of the plain blue frock-coat, I often see beneath
it costly embroidered vests. This habitual indulgence in

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