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CONSTANTINOPLE TO NIC^EA.

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posts, at which we change horses, having had three sets in
the space of thirty-three miles: this may appear an advan-
tage over the nsnal conrse of taking post-horses for the day
or journey, but we found (perhaps owing to the people's in-
experience, or natural slowness,) that more than an hour
was lost at each post in re-packing the luggage upon the
fresh horses.

It was nearly seven o'clock in the evening when we ar-
rived at Dil Perry, a solitary house on the sea-coast, contain-
ing one very large room, or caffe, but little resembling an
European one. "We took possession of our corner, and were
as usual independent of the other company, which consisted
of eight or nine people, boatmen, boys, and post-guides.
These people were until ten o'clock highly entertaining, and
afterwards all lay down in different parts, and I hope slept;
one poor man had a sad asthma, and six dogs and two cats
were until five in the morning continually exerting their
vocal powers at the door, making such a confusion of noises
as I scarcely ever heard.

The opinion that I formed of the Turkish character from
my first observations of their manners was a totally mistaken
one. All their taciturnity and dignified appearance is as-
sumed, more particularly in the higher classes. This I have
had frequent opportunities of observing in the khans and
coffee-houses, and in my own rooms each evening, as well as
among the innumerable companions by whom we are joined
on the road. Sociability is here carried almost too far, all
travellers joining company, and forming a sort of caravan,—
a custom which originates probably in the necessity of pro-
tection.

I certainly never met with more determined wits than
among the lower classes of the people here, in whom the
national character is most easily read. Though in perfect
ignorance of their language, I have been so amused by their
inimitable acting and buffoonery, and by their games and
 
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