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mountains, the town of Oneoenoo, (meaning a i Place of
Caves,') so called from some caves in the cliffs overhanging
the town. The situation appears very damp and unhealthy,
and the perfectly flat valley, which is almost a swamp, seems
to be the possession of plovers and wild ducks. The situa-
tion is strikingly like that of Magnesia, but the Hermus
is wanted to drain the meadows in front. The ground
here is so high that it appears to receive no waters but
from the heavens, a source which latterly has been very
liberal.

Oneoenoo is a long village immediately under the face
of the rock, and is overhung by two immense arches or
caves, which at a distance I had no doubt were artificial, the
forms of the arches being so perfect.

This evening I ascended to them, and extremely curious
they are. The whole rock is of marble, veined with red,
but shivered into innumerable cracks as if by heat. The
caves are evidently natural, although at an early age of the
Turks perhaps, or in the time of the Christians, the fronts
have been fortified by strong walls, part of which still
remain. The caves communicate with one another, and
from their size and dryness, as well as commanding situa-
tion, they must have been an excellent substitute for a
castle. Through several small cavities or fissures in the
rock of the caves, water had at a remote period filtered,
forming a semi-transparent crust of stalactite. "While in the
cave I was surprised at hearing distinctly people talking
and dogs barking as if close to the entrance, but on going
to the front of the cave I perceived that the sounds came
from the village beneath. The effect of this immense ear
or sounding-board was as powerful as a whispering gallery;
and perhaps this peculiarity might have been an advantage
in times of war or alarm.

Several fragments of columns, altars, and other remains
were built into the walls of the houses in the town, but the
 
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