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containing inverted inscriptions and ornaments. "Within
the arches, which have been plastered, remain some paint-
ings, with the same design on each, and, within painted
wreaths, inscriptions now quite illegible. If these works
were coeval with the building, assuredly painting did not
nourish in the same age as architecture. This elevated
ground has been laid open in many places, which are
worked as quarries for the modern town; the troughs
and cisterns now in use have all been pedestals, capitals
of columns, or tombs.

The modern town, which is of considerable extent, has
the appearance of a village, from the number of trees grow-
ing among the houses. Bazaars form the streets, which, as
usual, are completely shaded from the sun; but here trees
supply the place of the mats which are used for the purpose
in most towns. The market-day occurred while I was here.
I have in England been at fairs and races, and have wit-
nessed the commemoration days in Paris, and the masque-
rades and carnivals in Catania and Naples; but all fall
short, in gay variety and general beauty of costume, of this
Turkish market. The foliage of the plants and trees grow-
ing in the streets formed a pleasant relief to the dazzling
whiteness of the veils, and the splendid colours of the em-
broidered trowsers, of the multitudes of women attending
the market; light blue worked with silver was very com-
monly seen in the dresses of the peasants, and every turban
had its bunch of roses or other flowers. The noise of voices
was louder than is usual in scenes of the kind; for the
passing of camels and loaded asses through the crowd
called forth continually the warning voice of the driver.
The women had their children tied on their backs, and
these, with the gay colour of their dresses and their heads
ornamented with coins, contributed their part to the
general picturesque effect.

For about forty-five miles up the valley, the country
 
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