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JOURNAL.

CHAPTER XIII.

SMYRNA.—CLIMATE.—BAZAARS.—HORSES.—PROVISIONS.—BALL.—ROAD
TO THERA., THE ANCIENT CAYSTRUS.—PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAINS
TO IDIN, THE ANCIENT TRALLES.— TAHIR PASHA. — HIS MUSEUM.—
INSCRIPTIONS.—VALLEY OP THE MEANDER.—SULTAN HISSA.—SOL-
DIERS.—ANTIOCHEIA. — THE VALLEY OP THE MOSYNUS.—KARASOO.
—TO YEERAH, THE ANCIENT APHRODISIAS.

Smyrna, February Uth, 1840.-—When the Turkish peasant
said, as I left this country a year and a half ago, " Moun-
tains never meet, but men may," he expressed an idea of our
again meeting, stronger than I entertained of renewing my
visit to Asia Minor. Nothing but an earnest desire of know-
ing more of the highly interesting monuments found in this
country, and of the natural features peculiar to it, together
with the total absence of any published accounts whence I
could obtain such information, would have induced me to
wander thus far from the society of friends I so much value,
and from the description of civilization to which an Euro-
pean is habituated. I have just left Some, where, in visiting
its museums, which mark the ebbing and flowing of art from
the earliest ages, I have wondered at the incomparable dis-
tance at which the works of the ancient Greeks stand, raised
like the Acropolis of their cities above the productions of
all succeeding ages. How changed is Greece now! for I
 
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