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SMYRKA.

233

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posure of the shopkeeper, who, with his luxurious pipe in
his hand, awaits patiently on his cushioned couch the call
of a chance customer, offer ceaseless novelty to an European.
By the assistance of my companion, Mr. Scharf, I hope to
possess many sketches, to call to mind these scenes; but the
harmonious cries of the traders, and the sonorous bells of
the passing camels, can be retained only in the memory.
The shops for the sale of eatables are very numerous, and
mostly for dried fruits and sweetmeats. There are also many
for the favourite food of the Turks, which is principally com-
posed from the produce of the dairy. Among the most novel
to me was a dish called Mohalahbee, a kind of blancmange,
which is served in white plates, sifted over with sugar and
sprinkled with rose-water ; this hasty-pudding-like substance
is made of rice-flour boiled in milk; it is semi-transparent,
and in consistency like jelly. Saloop is also much sold about
the streets, as well as kymac, youghoort, and all kinds of
curd, cream and milk, flavoured with scents of various kinds.
The total absence of shops for the sale of stimulants, of spi-
rituous or fermented liquors, still continues a striking feature
to an European,

Thursday, February 27th.—No horses came this morning as
promised, and we waited until four in the afternoon before we
could be assured of even obtaining them for tomorrow morn-
ing : these are to be hired horses, at the rate of one dollar
(4s. 4<d.) a day, and half a dollar for their return; even more
than this was expected, and we have had to collect them from
various small proprietors. We should not be able to obtain
them from the Post, for which we are prepared with all the
powers of a firman from Constantinople, for four days, several
Governors being now detained awaiting the return of horses
from other expeditions. The greatest inconvenience is now
felt from the want of horses in Smyrna, where the supply is
very limited, although a few years ago the town abounded with
them; but the establishment of steam-vessels has superseded
 
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