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CHAPTER XVI

STEATONICEIA, ITS ETTINS.—EOTTTE TO MOOLAH.—ANCIENT TOMBS.—
THE PASHA. — LONGEVITY.—CHANGE IN THE LAWS.—DETENTION
AMONG- THE PEASANTS. — MUSIC.—DANCING. — CUSTOMS. — PASSAGE
OP THE EIVEE.—DOLLOMON.

March 2Mh, JEsJcy Hissd.—This morning we left Mellassa
for this place, the ancient Stratoniceia ; the distance is six
hours, but from the bad state of the road it has taken us
seven. For four miles we traversed the plain, and then for
three hours more clambered up the rocky mountainous road
to the south-east. This country is highly picturesque, and it
has received additional grandeur of effect from the frequent
thunder-storms and partial gleams of light amidst the pelt-
ing hail-storms.

I have before spoken of the geology of this district; and
its changes, although constant, are in two years imper-
ceptible. I again noticed the singular crumbling sands,
white, red, and blue, similar to those of Alum Bay in the
Isle of Wight; and the ironstone, in almost pure ore, scat-
tered over the surface of the country. In the people I ob-
served the primitive mode of obtaining turpentine-wood for
light; and the felling of the trees is in the last two years as
little changed as it has been for three thousand years past#.

I this afternoon continued my research amongst the broken
fragments of this once large town.

* Described at p. 191.
 
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