Fellows, Charles: Travels and researches in Asia Minor, more particularly in the province of Lycia (London, 1852)

344

LTCTA.

time in some degree to prevent the inconvenience from the
feet of the spectators seated above.

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We cannot have every enjoyment at the same time: to
enjoy light we must have shadow. When travelling before
in this country I was amused and instructed by the curiosity
and proffered hospitality of the people; but they intruded
far too much upon my privacy, and I often wished them
away, that I might be alone. In travelling with a Cavass
or Tartar the case is altered. I cannot say upon the whole
that I prefer it, always enjoying the attention and kindness
natural to humanity, rather than the respect commanded by
authority, and I fear I am represented as a very different
character with regard to my feelings towards the people, to
what I really am. They wish to offer flowers and presents
of all kinds, but the Cavass perhaps properly keeps them
aloof, and when anything is purchased by me they name no
price, but expect a present: this the Cavass discountenances,
and fixes a price upon everything, probably lower than I
should be induced to give. He demands hospitality where
I before received it voluntarily, and our room is always kept
free from the people.

I fancy that the peasants here keep more aloof than usual,
from a display of authority on our arrival, which I much dis-
approved, but it is, I fear, too common with travellers. The
first Zoorigee told some men to move from the path on which
they were lying, to let our cavalcade pass, instead of our
turning a few steps out of the way. The men said there was
plenty of room to pass, upon which the Cavass galloped up
to them, as if to trample them down with his horse, and
struck them repeatedly upon the head in the most savage

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