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The Neapolitan Character, Etc.
of the journal so efficient, that he soon made his paper
a powerful organ, raising it to a position unique in
South Italy. Scarfoglio is a man singularly gifted with
the power of political invective, a terrible adversary,
whose philippics fall unsparingly on whosoever may
cross his path. During the period when his gifted wife
collaborated with him, the Mattino was in the hands of
perhaps the two ablest writers in their separate lines
in all Italy. As indicating the manner in which he
tempts the public taste away from the usual fewdleton, I
may mention that during our stay in Naples last summer,
he was giving a translation of “Tristram and Iseult.”
He is a great authority on Provencal literature.
The material difference between the upper and the
lower classes is wider in this country than in any other,
and the same may be said of their tastes. Music is
loved far more by the plebe than by the noblesse. It
used to be a common saying that the upper classes went
to see and not to hear the opera, and that this is still the
case a single visit to San Carlo in the height of the season
will suffice to prove. The talking is incessant, and the
fashion of paying visits from box to box shows in what
spirit the music is regarded. It is still the excuse for
a reunion, precisely as it was in the days of Charles III.
The Italians keep the passion for first nights which so
struck Stendhal, and the least wealthy will gladly pay
exaggerated prices for a seat. These first nights are
the occasion of jealous competition among the ladies of
the audience as to who should receive the most visits
from their friends.

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