DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.62931#0188
INDIAN PRINTED CALICOES
Representative examples of Indian patterning are given in
plates 91-94, which are selected from a fine series of original designs
for printed chintzes, now treasured in the Victoria and Albert
Museum.
In these examples similar details of floral forms are used, but
with different planning of the pattern. Plates 91 and 94 (2) have
considerable freedom of arrangement compared with plate 92, which
is planned upon a more formal basis of ogival lines; while plate 93
is a well-defined and characteristic leaf, or pine-shape, filled with
floral forms, a feature used so frequently in the patterning of the
brocades and shawls of India (plates 15, 16).
These examples, although of comparatively late work (18th
century), are doubtless fairly representative of medieval patterning
in India.
In the 17th century the Dutch and Portuguese manufactured
cotton prints directly inspired by those of India.
Indian printed calicoes were imported into England in 1627 by
the East India Company ; but printed fabrics had been produced as
early as 1619 in England, for a patent was granted in that year for
the production of stained or printed fabrics, and other patents were
granted in 1634 and 1675. These fabrics were chiefly linen, though
cotton is mentioned in the patent of 1634; and to protect this
English industry, the printed chintzes of India, Persia, and China,
which had been freely imported during the middle of the century,
were prohibited to be worn in Great Britain. By an Act of Parlia-
ment passed in 1700, it was enacted “that all calicoes of China,
Persia, or of the East Indies, that are painted, dyed, printed, or
stained there, which are, or shall be, imported into this kingdom,
shall not be worn, or otherwise used, in Great Britain.”
During the 18th century many efforts were made in England
for the development of the calico-printing industry, but its progress
was retarded by the heavy tax placed upon such fabrics to prevent
the inevitable competition with the woollen industry which would
ensue.
In 1702 there was an excise tax of 3d. per square yard on all
printed calicoes; in 1714 the tax was increased to 6d.; in 1720 a
law was passed forbidding the wearing of printed calicoes, this was
partially repealed in 1736, when mixed goods were permitted. In
1774 this Act was repealed, but the 3d. tax still remained until
1806, when jd. was added ; but in 1831 the whole tax was removed,
and calico printing rapidly increased in production.
In 1689 the manufacture of indiennes was established at
NeuchAtel, and the brothers Kocchlin started cloth printing at
106
Representative examples of Indian patterning are given in
plates 91-94, which are selected from a fine series of original designs
for printed chintzes, now treasured in the Victoria and Albert
Museum.
In these examples similar details of floral forms are used, but
with different planning of the pattern. Plates 91 and 94 (2) have
considerable freedom of arrangement compared with plate 92, which
is planned upon a more formal basis of ogival lines; while plate 93
is a well-defined and characteristic leaf, or pine-shape, filled with
floral forms, a feature used so frequently in the patterning of the
brocades and shawls of India (plates 15, 16).
These examples, although of comparatively late work (18th
century), are doubtless fairly representative of medieval patterning
in India.
In the 17th century the Dutch and Portuguese manufactured
cotton prints directly inspired by those of India.
Indian printed calicoes were imported into England in 1627 by
the East India Company ; but printed fabrics had been produced as
early as 1619 in England, for a patent was granted in that year for
the production of stained or printed fabrics, and other patents were
granted in 1634 and 1675. These fabrics were chiefly linen, though
cotton is mentioned in the patent of 1634; and to protect this
English industry, the printed chintzes of India, Persia, and China,
which had been freely imported during the middle of the century,
were prohibited to be worn in Great Britain. By an Act of Parlia-
ment passed in 1700, it was enacted “that all calicoes of China,
Persia, or of the East Indies, that are painted, dyed, printed, or
stained there, which are, or shall be, imported into this kingdom,
shall not be worn, or otherwise used, in Great Britain.”
During the 18th century many efforts were made in England
for the development of the calico-printing industry, but its progress
was retarded by the heavy tax placed upon such fabrics to prevent
the inevitable competition with the woollen industry which would
ensue.
In 1702 there was an excise tax of 3d. per square yard on all
printed calicoes; in 1714 the tax was increased to 6d.; in 1720 a
law was passed forbidding the wearing of printed calicoes, this was
partially repealed in 1736, when mixed goods were permitted. In
1774 this Act was repealed, but the 3d. tax still remained until
1806, when jd. was added ; but in 1831 the whole tax was removed,
and calico printing rapidly increased in production.
In 1689 the manufacture of indiennes was established at
NeuchAtel, and the brothers Kocchlin started cloth printing at
106