Hamilton, William Richard; Hayes, Charles [Ill.]: Remarks on several parts of Turkey (Band 1): Aegyptiaca, or some account of the antient and modern state of Egypt, as obtained in the years 1801, 1802 ([London], [1809])

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.xome time laid aside, and Europeans thus mounted were not
afraid even of meeting a Bey or a Turk; a presumption which a
few years ago would have been attended with some unpleasant
consequences. However, not even now did those who had long
resided in the country as merchants under the protection of Euro-
pean powers, venture to profit by this relaxation in the ostentatious
police of the rulers of Cairo. They reflected that the time might
come, when things would be restored to their former footing;
and that then they would be made to pay for this among other
advantages which they had taken, of the preponderating influ-
ence of the Christians.

The handsomest part of Cairo is that which is called the place
or square of Esbcquich. The best houses in the town had been
built round this area ; though they were now for the greater part
in a ruined state, having been the theatre of most of the engage-
ments which had taken place during the insurrection, after the
battle of Heliopolis, in which Kleber had defeated the Grand
Vezir.

In the summer, during the inundation, as soon as the grand
Kalitsch, or canal leading from the Nile to Cairo, is opened, the
centre of this square is filled with water, and the traffic across it
is carried on by boats which ply for the purpose. At night fre-
quent parties of pleasure with bands of music are to be seen in
different parts of the lake. In the dry season this amusement
gives place to that of practising, during the cool of the day, the
Djerid exercise on horseback.

Some of the houses in and about Cairo have very large gar-
dens, laid out with considerable taste: this has indeed been
somewhat improved of late years. They are all abundantly sup-
plied with the Nile water, have summer-houses or Kiosks, where

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