Chap, xxxv.] LEAVE SYME. 'y
make ourselves comfortable for the night on its wooden
benches. This cafe was the rendezvous of all the captains
and merchants of the place, and we were not a little amused
at many of the uncouth figures which made their appear-
ance : one party of boisterous Greeks kept us long awake
by playing at cards, drinking, and singing, until past mid-
night. Amongst the visitors of the evening was a single
Turk, whose solemn gravity, and subdued but dignified tone
of voice contrasted curiously with the noisy shouts and
boisterous manners of the Greek captains.
Friday, February 10. — After wandering about the
Scala and the environs of the town, we embarked soon after
eleven for Panermiotis. The whole population of Syme
appeared to have turned out upon the quay to see the Eng-
lish boat put off; and certainly her appearance, and that of
her crew, formed a striking contrast with their own or their
neighbours' dirty craft. As we pulled round the eastern side
of the island, we passed several deep and narrow inlets,
probably some of the eight harbours or ports mentioned by
Pliny. Soon after three we reached the ship, highly gra-
tified with our excursion, though we had failed in making
out the Triopian isthmus.
Saturday, February 11 .—We weighed anchor early this
morning, and left Panermiotis and its hospitable monks.
After contending with light and baffling winds for several
days, during which we were fortunate in having fine weather,
we entered the Gulf of Smyrna on the evening of the 14th,
and the following day cast anchor in the Smyrna roads. As
we beat up the gulf in company with a French brig of war,
we watched the various and partial winds which prevailed
in different parts of the channel from Long Islanp to the
castle. Atone moment we had the wind astern, five minutes
afterwards it headed us, then it came on one quarter, and
suddenly shifted to the other. Again we were becalmed
for half an hour, while other vessels not a mile distant
were scudding before a sharp breeze, which made them
make ourselves comfortable for the night on its wooden
benches. This cafe was the rendezvous of all the captains
and merchants of the place, and we were not a little amused
at many of the uncouth figures which made their appear-
ance : one party of boisterous Greeks kept us long awake
by playing at cards, drinking, and singing, until past mid-
night. Amongst the visitors of the evening was a single
Turk, whose solemn gravity, and subdued but dignified tone
of voice contrasted curiously with the noisy shouts and
boisterous manners of the Greek captains.
Friday, February 10. — After wandering about the
Scala and the environs of the town, we embarked soon after
eleven for Panermiotis. The whole population of Syme
appeared to have turned out upon the quay to see the Eng-
lish boat put off; and certainly her appearance, and that of
her crew, formed a striking contrast with their own or their
neighbours' dirty craft. As we pulled round the eastern side
of the island, we passed several deep and narrow inlets,
probably some of the eight harbours or ports mentioned by
Pliny. Soon after three we reached the ship, highly gra-
tified with our excursion, though we had failed in making
out the Triopian isthmus.
Saturday, February 11 .—We weighed anchor early this
morning, and left Panermiotis and its hospitable monks.
After contending with light and baffling winds for several
days, during which we were fortunate in having fine weather,
we entered the Gulf of Smyrna on the evening of the 14th,
and the following day cast anchor in the Smyrna roads. As
we beat up the gulf in company with a French brig of war,
we watched the various and partial winds which prevailed
in different parts of the channel from Long Islanp to the
castle. Atone moment we had the wind astern, five minutes
afterwards it headed us, then it came on one quarter, and
suddenly shifted to the other. Again we were becalmed
for half an hour, while other vessels not a mile distant
were scudding before a sharp breeze, which made them