Universitätsbibliothek HeidelbergUniversitätsbibliothek Heidelberg
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Hawes, Harriet B. [Hrsg.]
Gournia: Vasiliki and other prehistoric sites on the isthmus of Hierapetra, Crete ; excavations of the Wells-Houston-Cramp expeditions, 1901, 1903, 1904 — Philadelphia, [1908]

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.16205#0032
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ETWEEN Kalo Khorio and Kavousi, the north coast of the Isthmus of Hierapetra is utterly
barren, but wonderfully beautiful. At Pachyammos there is a good beach; elsewhere steep
cliffs alternating with rugged coves form a coast line as picturesque as any in southern
Europe and within these coves rest waters as clear and rich in color as those of Capri.

The place "Gournia"1 is a small basin that opens north on the Gulf of Mirabello and is enclosed
on the other three sides by foot hills, which form the first upward step from the Isthmus of Hierapetra
to the range of Mt. Dicte in Lasithi. Westward the hills rise 1200 feet, those to the south are half this
height, on the east they are much lower. It is a limestone region with outcroppings of conglomerate.
The basin has been formed by water descending from the hills and merging into two torrents which in
their course toward the sea have left a low limestone ridge standing between them; by this the basin is
divided into a narrow eastern and a wider western valley. The Ridge extends northward to within a
quarter of a mile of the gulf whence the land dips to a level littoral, shut in on east and west by bold
headlands. Boulders washed from the hillsides lie strewn over this bit of coast and the western valley
is cut by a deep torrential bed which is dry in summer but still drains a ravine in the rainy seasons.
The eastern valley has long been dry, affording good soil for cultivation. To the south where the
Ridge joins the encircling hills there are signs of man's occupation during the Greco-Roman period,—
an artist's signature cut on a block of stone, a grave containing late pottery and glass, and an aqueduct
that may be followed far up into the ravine above mentioned. But for the most part this end of the
Ridge is too steep and uneven for habitation. Farther north it becomes less rugged; platforms of earth
are upheld by rock ledges; there is a slight dip, and beyond this is the acropolis of the ancient city, every
foot of its summit and slopes covered with roads and dwellings. Looking east one may see over a rim
of hills the peaks of Thriphte, a range that crosses the island from Kavousi to Hierapetra; south and
west the view is bounded by nearer heights; across the gulf to the northwest is the picturesque outline
of Cape Spina Longa and northward as far as the eye can reach lies the brilliant Mediterranean.

The small acropolis is but the centre of a settlement which we know from our excavations crossed
the eastern valley. Whether it extended west also is still uncertain, for beyond the torrent-bed which
forms a natural boundary on that side we have made only two tests. These experiments, resulting in
the discovery of a ' late Mycenaean' (L.M.I 11 b) settlement and burial, did not tempt us to further ef-
fort. At the northern point of the Ridge (150 feet high) bare rock reappears and beyond this the val-
leys meet, as waters meet around a headland, and stretch in one plain to the sea. Small tracts of plain
and valley can be cultivated, but hills and boulder-strewn shore bear no crops except stones and wild
carobs. To-day this region is deserted. Many persons pass up and down the high-road, but few stop
at Gournia and these remain only a short time, archaeologists to study the site, shepherds to pasture
their flocks, and farmers at rare intervals to cultivate the stony fields. The nearest dwellings are at
Pachyammos, a small coastguard station three-quarters of a mile east, where our expedition had its
headquarters. In fair weather, landing can be made in the cove north of Gournia itself and apparently
this arm of the sea was used as a port in ancient times. The line of the shore has changed and may
have been more favorable than now to the prosperity of the neighborhood. At all events, the sea has
encroached on buildings which are proved by construction and contents to be of the same period as
those on the acropolis.

Leaving the port and proceeding inland, one sees many straight lines of stones, which must be the
tops of ancient walls. Some of them we have dug out with heavy labor. Our object was to fix the
position of houses and in this way to find the old road from port to acropolis, but the sum of our, achieve-
ment has been to unearth irregularly winding field walls, ancient, no doubt, but not valuable to archae-
ology. In the limestone promontory that rises east of the port are shallow rock-shelters, wherein men
placed their dead, with offerings of simple monochrome vases, at a time far earlier than the date of the
Town (infra, p. 56). Advancing south, we find in the vicinity of the modern high-road no indications
of ancient settlement. This stretch of land was too much needed for cultivation to be used for dwell-
ings. Having crossed the road and three small fields, one reaches rising ground that cannot be culti-
vated and may pass either to right or left of the rocky spur that terminates the Ridge. On the right
or west side, wherever a pit has been sunk, it has struck house remains. Close in upon the rocks are
small walled enclosures in which burials were made in terra-cotta urns of bath-tub shape (larnakes or
casellas). In similar enclosures on the east side were discovered cups of the best Middle Minoan style
(infra, p. 56, Plate C, 1,2, 3) and in a rock-shelter close at hand whole specimens of Early Minoan wares
(infra, p. 56, Plate A, 3, 5). Between these burials and the Town there is a narrow strip of waste land,
which was used as a dumping-ground at an early time. This plot yielded not less than 20,000 pots-
herds belonging to the 3d Early Minoan period, chiefly with geometric designs in white on a black
ground (infra, p. 57). Beyond this dumping-place is part of a massive wall a full metre wide, which has

1 The meaning of Gournia is, 1 believe, to be sought in one of two directions. FoOpva (=^-y-urna Jannaris, Histor-
ical Greek Grammar, ^] 155, b) is a stone trough from which barnyard animals drink. With the ending u, this word has an
abstract meaning, ' troughful' (cj. Jannaris, ^ 1018-1021, 1027, 155 c), parallel to -/-.- handful,' xef 0i»vi<4, ' forkful,' etc.
It may be used as we use ' basin' of a valley, as was suggested to me by Miss Daphne Kalopothakes of Athens. On the other
hand, in Slavic languages, gora denotes 'mountain' (Russ. gornaya, fern, of adj. gorny, ' mountainous' or ' like a mountain,'
and gornyaya, fern, of adj. gorni, 'high, elevated'); hence Gournia, as the name of our prehistoric acropolis, may be con-
nected with this root, a possibility suggested to me by our architect, Herr Vasili Sejk, and confirmed by Professor Prokosch
of the University of Wisconsin in kind answer to my inquiry. There were many Slavs in the army of Nikephoros Phokas,
which drove the Saracens from Crete in the tenth century, and there is a village in Western Crete named Slavopoulos. In
favor of the first interpretation is the fact that the peasants of our neighborhood gave the name Gournia not merely to
the acropolis but to the whole basin in which it stands. I am told that there are other places in Crete of similar forma-
tion called Gournia. No one knows how old the name is.

' P. Gardner, describing pre-Hellenic life in Greece, New Chapters of Greek History, p. 97.

OF THE SITE

no connection with the adjacent houses. It may belong to a town wall of the Middle Minoan Period,
outside of which the waste pottery was cast, but the settlement with which this publication chiefly deals
was without such protection.

South of this wall one comes immediately upon the Town. At the beginning of excavations only
a few stones in situ showed above the surface; most of the houses were entirely hidden, being dis-
covered in the course of digging by workmen who, in following roads, came upon their thresholds.
The upper parts of the houses had fallen long ago, covering the site with their ruins. On the top of the
hill, where denudation is constant, there was but a scanty covering of earth over the native rock; here
some of the best objects of bronze, stone, and terra-cotta were found within two feet of the surface and
indeed at certain spots, which we now know to have been within dwellings, the native rock lay bare.
But on the side-slopes, where earth accumulates rapidly, we were sometimes obliged to dig fifteen feet
before reaching virgin soil, live rock, beaten floor or stone paving as the case might be.

Decidedly the best general view of the Town is now obtained from the east, for on that side the
houses are well preserved and stand in regular "blocks," separated by narrow streets which mount the
hill in long flights of steps, somewhat as in modern Naples. One sees no fortifications, no "castle
standing amid the huts of dependants,"2 but an open, unwalled settlement, evidently at peace with its
neighbors. A large space on the southern side of the acropolis seems to have been a Public Court or
Market-Place. Fronting this is a small palace which reproduces many features of the royal residences
at Knossos and Phaestos. The prince or petty 'king' (in Homeric language) who lived here made no
attempt to keep his subjects at a distance. The street that skirts the edge of the acropolis leads at both
ends to his doors, and the houses of the burghers elbow his palace, as shops elbow cathedrals in continen-
tal cities of modern Europe. In the centre of the Town stands a small shrine, to which we ascend by a
narrow lane paved with stones, worn by the feet of pious worshippers.

No exact information can be gathered from coins, inscriptions, or written sources concerning any
ancient sites that lie within the scope of this publication. But somewhere on the north coast of the
Isthmus there existed in Strabo's time a city called Minoa (Geographica, X, ch. IV, 5.) and its name sug-
gests a possible connection with the subject we have in hand. For as to-day classical sites are often
called by the peasants * Hellenika' ("c r« lEify\>aa), so Minoa may have received its name because it was
situated near prehistoric ruins which the Cretans of classical times associated with the name of Minos.

In his description of Crete, Strabo tells us that Minoa was situated on the gulf opposite Hiera-
petra at the narrowest part of the island. Relying upon this slender statement and the existence of
some ancient ruins as yet unstudied, Spratt,3 Falkener,4 Bursian/Halbherr," and Mariani7 have placed
Minoa at Katavati, the landing-place for Kalo Khorio, in the extreme southwest corner of the Gulf of
Mirabello, although there are other sites to which Strabo's description would apply as well or better.

The topographical notes of Onorio Belli, a Venetian traveller who wrote in 1596, will perhaps fur-
nish a clue, and I therefore quote them in full from Falkener's edition.

" Minoa.—At a distance of eighteen miles from Settia, toward the east, at a place called Paleocastro,
are the ruins of Minoa. The situation of the city is very fine. The town was placed partly on a hill
and partly in a plain, but it is now quite deserted for fear of corsairs.

" Istron.—Six miles farther to the east i's the city of Istrona on the mouth of a river of the same
name, but now called Noyaona. The city is at present entirely submerged by the sea."

Falkener comments on the statement that Minoa lay eighteen miles east of "Settia" (Sitia) in these
words: "Camminando per levante. If this be correct, the place which Belli is describing is not
Minoa, but the Palaeocastron on the eastern coast near Itanus; but by his naming Minoa after Hier-
apytria, it seems more probable that he really meant Minoa, the situation of which was fixed even in
his time, and that the word levante should read ponente."

I would suggest the substitution of 'ponente' in both places where Belli uses 'levante.' We should
then have Minoa eighteen miles west of Sitia and Istrona six miles west of Minoa. This would place
Minoa somewhere near Pachyammos,8 midway between the prehistoric settlements at Gournia and
Vasiliki, and would give to Katavati, together with Kalo Khorio, the name Istrona (ancient Istros or
Istron), by which name both these places have been called by their inhabitants, within the memory of
men now living. Further excavations may one day solve the problem.

Two facts are to be especially noted about the situation of Gournia: first its proximity to the sea,
second its position on the Isthmus of Hierapetra. The first helps establish the belief that Minoans were
maritime, seafaring Cretans and this theory is further supported by certain of the finds,—bronze fish-
hooks, a lead sinker, net-weights, obsidian brought from Melos, vases with marine designs, coral, sea-
wfeed, the octopus, nautilus, murex, etc. The second is a fulfilment of the " Law of Isthmuses,"9 which
would postulate a chain of ancient settlements on this neck of land where Crete is narrowest.

J T. A. B. Spratt, Travels and Researches in Crete, 1865, the vade mecum of Cretan explorers, I, p. 137 ff.

4 E. Falkener, On a Ms. History of Candia by Onorio Belli, 1596, pp. 14, 15. Falkener states that the version of
Belli's statements given in the text is from an Abstract of Honorio Belli's History of Candia, which was written by Apostoli
Zeno (1680-1750).

6 C. Bursian, Geographie von Griechenland, II, p. 574.

8 F. Halbherr, Inscrifione Cretesi, Mus. It. d. Antich. Class., Ill, pp. 141-4.

7 L. Mariani, Antichite Cretesi, Mon. Ant., VI, 1895, p. 282.

8 Cf. C. Buondelmonti, Descriptio insule Candia, ed. Legrand (Paris, 1897), pp. 125, 150. Buondelmonti was in Crete
in 1415-1416. Mr. R. C. Bosanquet suggests that the ruins Buondelmonti saw and called Panormum (" his nomenclature is
all wrong based on the order of Ptolemy misunderstood ") may have been those of Strabo's Minoa. I have not yet been able
to identify their position; they may have stood on the promontory east of Pachyammos or on the heights above Monasteraki

" Berard's enunciation of the " loi des isthmes," Les Pheniciens el I'Odyssee, 1902, I, p. 69 ff., brought no new revela-
tions to archaeologists; cf. the writer's remarks on the position of Kavousi, A. J. A., 2d Series V, 1901, p. 130.

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