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210 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, NUBIA,

to have the bastinado inflicted on an English lieutenant-
colonel for some supposed offence, which no remonstrance
on the part of the English agent would have hindered ; it was
only by flight the former escaped the indignity threatened.
I was myself obliged to come to a determined issue with the
aga of Beirutte then in command, who wished to prevent
me from visiting the prince of the Druzes; on which I de-
sired the consul to ask him whether England was at war
or peace with the Grand Signor? If at war, it was his duty
to take me prisoner; if at peace, as I was furnished with
a firman from Constantinople, I required and insisted to be
allowed to go where I pleased. This had the wished for
effect; the vice-consul put the question trembling, and
permission was given me to make the excursion at my
pleasure.

I left Seida on the l6th, and embarked, saluted from the
mole with a few exclamations of " Giaour \" and other con-
temptuous words ; and sailed for Beirutte during the night.
In the morning I found myself near a range of beautifully
shaped hills, under which we continued our course till we an-
chored in the road of Beirutte. The town, even from the sea,
had a busy appearance: its houses were close together; the
inhabitants in motion along the shore. Two or three small
vessels on the stocks in the neighbourhood, and several of
different sizes in the road, bespoke trade. Its environs, con-
 
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