DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.9840#0081
32 INDICATIONS OF AN ANCIENT SITE. [CHAP.
and beautiful: they are entirely covered with snow.
Immediately on commencing the descent, towards the
plain of Apokdrona, we turned to our left, in con-
formity with directions obtained from some peasants
whom we had met, and soon saw two ancient tombs;
sure indications of our approach to the Palaedkastro,
to which I was endeavouring to find my way. They
were hewn out of the rock, which is soft and calca-
reous, and, like the stone of Malta, is full of im-
bedded shells. One of them was a chamber contain-
ing resting-places for three occupants, the other had
served for four. Scarcely had we passed these tombs
before we met a kaldgheros13, whose Greek shewed at
once that he was not a Cretan; and from whom I
learnt that we should find a lodging for the night in
a monastery or rather metdkhi1', belonging to the great
convent of Haghios loannes the Theologian15, at Pat-
word '6pr\ as still in common use : it here denotes the loftier parts of any high
mountains.
13 I shall not attempt to anglicize any such names, peculiar to the country,
but shall always use the Greek word, without deviating from the rule even
where it may have been clothed in an English dress, and rendered familiar to
English readers, by writers who are generally read; as lias happened in the
case of kaldgheros, which has become caloyer, both with us and the French.
The kaldgheros at present, in almost every part, is scarcely raised a single
step above the mere peasant: very few of them can read : they are in fact
distinguished, from any other labourers, solely by their having made a vow of
celibacy, by letting their beards grow, and by living in their monastery. A
person can become a kaldgheros at any age, and the lame, or infirm, do actu-
ally avail themselves of this facility in many cases, becoming kaldgheri, and
living comfortably within the quiet walls of the monastery all the rest of their
lives. Their situation might certainly be envied by the inmates of a poor-
house in more densely peopled countries. The iraTepas is also called lepo-
pLovaxos, and this class is supposed to be the most learned in the oriental
church. They can all read and can write a little : but few of them can spell
three consecutive words without blundering : in fact they learn to write, as a
necessary qualification, when boys, and having no duties to discharge beyond
those of reading the morning and evening service in the chapels of their con-
vents, the ability to write is little more than a useless accomplishment, except
for the Hegumenos, who keeps the accounts of the society.
14 Me-rox'.
15 The two Johns are called by the Greeks 6 irpoopopoi, and 6 Oeo'Xoyos,
instead of the Baptist and the Evangelist as we designate them.
and beautiful: they are entirely covered with snow.
Immediately on commencing the descent, towards the
plain of Apokdrona, we turned to our left, in con-
formity with directions obtained from some peasants
whom we had met, and soon saw two ancient tombs;
sure indications of our approach to the Palaedkastro,
to which I was endeavouring to find my way. They
were hewn out of the rock, which is soft and calca-
reous, and, like the stone of Malta, is full of im-
bedded shells. One of them was a chamber contain-
ing resting-places for three occupants, the other had
served for four. Scarcely had we passed these tombs
before we met a kaldgheros13, whose Greek shewed at
once that he was not a Cretan; and from whom I
learnt that we should find a lodging for the night in
a monastery or rather metdkhi1', belonging to the great
convent of Haghios loannes the Theologian15, at Pat-
word '6pr\ as still in common use : it here denotes the loftier parts of any high
mountains.
13 I shall not attempt to anglicize any such names, peculiar to the country,
but shall always use the Greek word, without deviating from the rule even
where it may have been clothed in an English dress, and rendered familiar to
English readers, by writers who are generally read; as lias happened in the
case of kaldgheros, which has become caloyer, both with us and the French.
The kaldgheros at present, in almost every part, is scarcely raised a single
step above the mere peasant: very few of them can read : they are in fact
distinguished, from any other labourers, solely by their having made a vow of
celibacy, by letting their beards grow, and by living in their monastery. A
person can become a kaldgheros at any age, and the lame, or infirm, do actu-
ally avail themselves of this facility in many cases, becoming kaldgheri, and
living comfortably within the quiet walls of the monastery all the rest of their
lives. Their situation might certainly be envied by the inmates of a poor-
house in more densely peopled countries. The iraTepas is also called lepo-
pLovaxos, and this class is supposed to be the most learned in the oriental
church. They can all read and can write a little : but few of them can spell
three consecutive words without blundering : in fact they learn to write, as a
necessary qualification, when boys, and having no duties to discharge beyond
those of reading the morning and evening service in the chapels of their con-
vents, the ability to write is little more than a useless accomplishment, except
for the Hegumenos, who keeps the accounts of the society.
14 Me-rox'.
15 The two Johns are called by the Greeks 6 irpoopopoi, and 6 Oeo'Xoyos,
instead of the Baptist and the Evangelist as we designate them.