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VIII.]

DEPART UK E FROM SIEHDHONI.

143

ANCIENT WALLS OF AXOS.

CHAPTER VIII.

GHARAZO. PLACES CALLED AXOS AND ELEVTHERNA. RAIN, WINE,
AND MODERN SONGS. CELIBACY OF THE REGULAR CLERGY.
VISIT TO THE SITE OF AXOS. ANCIENT REMAINS, AND INSCRIP-
TIONS. ORPHIC TRADITIONS RESPECTING ZEUS AND FERSEPHONE.
THE ANCIENT SYNCRETISM. PHYSICAL FEATURES OF AXOS. SITE
OF PANORMOS. RIDE TO GONIES.

Fehruary 24.

The fine groves of olives, through which I pass for
half an hour after leaving Melidhdni, are many of them
entirely uncultivated. Soon after reaching the regular
road, which, when on my way to Melidhdni, I left im-
mediately after crossing the river at Perama, I pass the
village of Dhafnidhes : it is a quarter of a mile to the
right. The valley in which we now find ourselves is well
filled with olive-trees; the river winds through it, and
its scenery is picturesque. Mount Ida is on our right,
and the hill of Melidhdni is still before us. Beyond
Dhafnidhes we see the smoke ascending from the little
village of Kefali, which is entirely concealed from view
 
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