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calamities OF the war.

[chap.

wine3, which is excellent; and of which it produces,
in a good season, from 8,000 to 10,000 stamnia4.

What I learn from individuals with whom I become
acquainted in my travels, gives me a lively idea of the
widely spread misery, and of the destruction of human
life, brought about in Crete between 1821 and 1830.
My host here lost his father and three brothers : his
wife's father and one of her brothers were also put to
death by the Mohammedans. The poor woman took
these afflictions to heart so heavily, that she died of
grief. After losing her my host could not flee to the
mountains with two young children, and therefore went
and lived for three years in the Kastron.

This village contains no less than nine churches,
its population being entirely Christian. In five alone
is service ever performed, and of these only regularly
at the Panaghia's. The people attend at the other
churches on the particular festivals of their respective
Saints. There is, about two miles off, a monastery
of the Panaghia Spelaedtissa5, which has now only
six or eight kaldgheri.

March H.

I found, as a guide up the mountain, a shepherd,
who had become acquainted with the tomb of Zeus in
tending his flock. A good hour was spent in reaching
the summit, towards the northern extremity of which
I observed foundations of the massive walls of a building

3 Buondelmonti in Cornelius, Creta Sacra, Vol. i. p. 10. says,
" Ab alia parte versus Orientem planus est bacchi fertilissimus, Archanes
nomine, in quo plura et ampla rura manent."

4 On this ancient and proper usage of the word maixvLov, see Phryni-
chus, p. 400. ed. Lobeck. Si-afivla' oi fxev afxadels ctti t<mv dfxiSoov tolt-
tovgiV ol &" dpyaloi eirl twv olvripwv dyyeiuw. In all probability no ctyuk
has ever been used by the inhabitants of Arkhanes, or even of ancient cities
in its neighbourhood, and therefore the old usage of the word a-Tafxviov has
easily been preserved free from corruption. The commonest article of bed-
room furniture, in civilized Europe, was hardly known to any Athenian, when
I was at Athens in 1833 ; and the idea of using such a thing in a house
was even shocking to their notions of cleanliness.

5 See above, p. 93.
 
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