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228 ARRIVAL, DINNER AND LODGING, [CHAP.

Kaldgheri till after sunset. Their attentions were un-
remitting, and their generous hospitality soon furnished
forth a table, which would not have disgraced the hall
of a wealthier and more learned society. Mutton from
their own flock, turkey, which, after a day's ride among
these mountains, one cannot but think tenderer and
more delicious than was ever tasted in civilized Europe,
pilav, milk, salad, olives in oil, cheese, and almonds,
formed the various dishes of a meal, which seemed to
us luxurious; and which, since we were now lodged
with the regular clergy, failed not to be accompanied
by plenty of excellent wine52. After this our counter-
panes were spread on the floor, for the monastery is
not yet sufficiently recovered from the effects of the
revolution to possess beds or sheets, and we were soon
in that happy state of utter unconsciousness which
speedily follows a long day's ride, and an hospitable
reception.

52 Savary, Lettres sur la Grece, p. 200. is eloquent in speaking of the
hospitality and good cheer which he found in this monastery. He says of
their honey: " Ce miel transparent comme le cristal, e'toit delicieux. Aussi
parfume" que les fleurs, aussi delicat que les meilleures confitures, il flattok
egalement le gout et l'odorat."
 
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