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244

ARRIVAL AT RHOGDHIA.

[CHA1\

being, however, still in a state of considerable fear and
trembling. On finding that his alarm, which had been
caused, as I supposed, by his distinguishing the Sfakian
accent of my guide2, was wholly groundless, he called
out to three other villagers, who had left their houses
with him, but had not had courage enough to approach
us. They now shewed themselves, and conducted us
to fthogdhia, which we reached soon after nine o1 clock.

We could only obtain some barley-bread and a few
olives for our evening-meal3: " this village has no vine-
yards," was the reply to my inquiries for wine*.

I went with Captain Manias to a cottage, where
about thirty men and women and a few children were
assembled. It now wants little more than a week to
the beginning of the rigorous Lent of the Oriental
church. Here, as in Catholic countries at the same
season,

The people take their fill of recreation,
And buy repentance, ere they grow devout.

Among the various sports whieh served to amuse the
assembled Cretans was one called "the spleen5," which
is a very rude dramatic representation. The principal
actor alone was dressed for his part. Frequent peals
of laughter were elicited by his performance. Soon after
this a peasant entered the room, on such lofty stilts
that his head was within a few inches of the rafters,
on which the flat roof of the cottage is supported. The
elevated performer walked up to me, and, after wel-
coming me to their sports (TraiyviSia), saluted most
of his assembled fellow-villagers. I next saw several

2 "As I approached you, I distinguished a Sfakian voice, jxLav 2<£ct/aai/))i>

3 Pythagoras himself must have fared as well when he visited Crete.
Alexis, in Athenaeus, iv. p. 101. c.

AjOtos Kadapos els etca-ripta, iroTitpLov
!J(5aTOs, ToaavTa TavTa.

4 " Kpaai Xetiref fiev e^et d/xTre'Xia toDto to xwpio'" see above, p. 150.

5 'H o-TrXfjva.
 
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