CHAPTER IV
CAIRO
Cairo, extent of the city—Walls—Gates—Streets—The Muskee—
Arab funerals—Cemeteries—" The Trial of the Grave "—Feed-
ing the poor near the tomb of the late Khedive, Tewfik Pasha.
THE city of Cairo covers an area of three
square miles, and greatly exceeds the limits of
the old walls ; large portions remain on the eastern
side of the city, and can be also traced more or less
distinctly from the neighbourhood of the railway on
the north to the Citadel on the south. Several of
the old gateways remain, of which the most perfect
is the Bab-el-Nasr, the " Gate of Victor)-." Above
the arch is an inscription in large Arabic characters
recording the watchword of the Mahometans, " There
is no god but God, and Mahomet is His Prophet"
Another inscription in smaller characters records the
date of its erection, A.l>. 1087. The gate is a good
example of Saracenic architecture, and occupies the
north-east angle of the old walls. This gateway is a
great thoroughfare ; it leads directly to one of the
largest Mahometan cemeteries, which bears the same
name as the gate. The streets in this old part of the
city are very narrow and irregular; the roadway is
unpaved and often very uneven.
The houses are most picturesque, the upper stories
45
CAIRO
Cairo, extent of the city—Walls—Gates—Streets—The Muskee—
Arab funerals—Cemeteries—" The Trial of the Grave "—Feed-
ing the poor near the tomb of the late Khedive, Tewfik Pasha.
THE city of Cairo covers an area of three
square miles, and greatly exceeds the limits of
the old walls ; large portions remain on the eastern
side of the city, and can be also traced more or less
distinctly from the neighbourhood of the railway on
the north to the Citadel on the south. Several of
the old gateways remain, of which the most perfect
is the Bab-el-Nasr, the " Gate of Victor)-." Above
the arch is an inscription in large Arabic characters
recording the watchword of the Mahometans, " There
is no god but God, and Mahomet is His Prophet"
Another inscription in smaller characters records the
date of its erection, A.l>. 1087. The gate is a good
example of Saracenic architecture, and occupies the
north-east angle of the old walls. This gateway is a
great thoroughfare ; it leads directly to one of the
largest Mahometan cemeteries, which bears the same
name as the gate. The streets in this old part of the
city are very narrow and irregular; the roadway is
unpaved and often very uneven.
The houses are most picturesque, the upper stories
45