92 AN EXCURSION IN PHRYGIA
The only other products are dirt and fleas ; but
these are luxuriant. The ground is alive with fleas ;
I have seen places that were pretty bad, but nothing
to surpass Bash-Tcheshme.
This was, therefore, an excellent plan to test my
recent discovery that waterproof keeps off vermin.
I drew up my socks over my trousers, spread a
waterproof sheet over the filthy mattress which the
Turk gave me, put on my greatcoat, and over that
a waterproof cloak ; and lay down to rest quietly,
undisturbed and victorious, till morning; while
the armies of the enemy gathered round the sea of
waterproof, and dared not cross. The whole place
was so indescribably filthy that I could not un-
fasten my own blankets.
XVI. Twelve hours to Serai-Keui, through the
high glen of Colossai at the end of the upper glen
of the Lycos, then down a long step to the lower
Lycos valley. At the eighth hour we passed the
place where, three weeks ago, my wife and I were
belated on the second night from Apameia and lay
out for the night in a field ; in the'early morning,
a shower coming on, we had to rise and take the
road ; and we rode into Serai-Keui, four hours
distant, as the people were going to the station to
take the early train starting at 7 a.m. Among
them were some friends who had come up for a
day from Smyrna with whom we acquired great
The only other products are dirt and fleas ; but
these are luxuriant. The ground is alive with fleas ;
I have seen places that were pretty bad, but nothing
to surpass Bash-Tcheshme.
This was, therefore, an excellent plan to test my
recent discovery that waterproof keeps off vermin.
I drew up my socks over my trousers, spread a
waterproof sheet over the filthy mattress which the
Turk gave me, put on my greatcoat, and over that
a waterproof cloak ; and lay down to rest quietly,
undisturbed and victorious, till morning; while
the armies of the enemy gathered round the sea of
waterproof, and dared not cross. The whole place
was so indescribably filthy that I could not un-
fasten my own blankets.
XVI. Twelve hours to Serai-Keui, through the
high glen of Colossai at the end of the upper glen
of the Lycos, then down a long step to the lower
Lycos valley. At the eighth hour we passed the
place where, three weeks ago, my wife and I were
belated on the second night from Apameia and lay
out for the night in a field ; in the'early morning,
a shower coming on, we had to rise and take the
road ; and we rode into Serai-Keui, four hours
distant, as the people were going to the station to
take the early train starting at 7 a.m. Among
them were some friends who had come up for a
day from Smyrna with whom we acquired great