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JCS TRAVELS IN UPPER

movements, and nobleness and almost haughtiness
in their carriage. Their foot is sure, their step
light, and their paces quick, brisk, and easy. In
short, they are very pleasing to ride. All travellers
have praised this fine species of animal. Peter
della Valle, who paraded his pride a long time in
the East, relates, that the people theic do not
scruple to ride upon asses, that they trot wonder-
fully, and that he has been ready to die with
laughing at the sight *. For my part, I was greatly
surprised at it. In Egypt people not only ride on
asses without hesitation, bur, as I have already
observed, they were the only animals on which
Christians of any country were allowed to appear
in the capital. The Mahometan merchants, and
the most opulent of the inhabitants, used them
likewise: and carriages being unknown in this
country, ladies of the highest rank, even the wives
of the beys themselves, had no other equipages.

I once happened to meet the whole haram of a
bey, taking an airing in the environs of Cairo.
An equivocal figure, an eunuch with a mean and
ferocious countenance, preceded the ladies on a
fine horse, covered with gold, silver, and cm-
broidery. The ladies were mounted op asses of
the highest price. The bridles of these animals
glittered with silver and gold, and a magnificent

* Voyages, tome v. p. 142.

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